Just had it out today on the field and holy #*$&@.
Found the burble @ 5000 - 6000 and lowered the needles down one step and it killed the little bugger. :twisted: :twisted:
Man can i say it, This fuc$%$# thing is like something on steroids
holy #*$&@ can it move :!: :!: :!: " AWSOME " :!: :!: :!:
LET ME SAY THE BEST MONEY SPENT SO FAR BAR NONE ......
Get the ECP Filter Kit, Plugs, and jets along with red holtz springs
or silver (red works for me) Gut the exhaust or get a aftermarket can
clutch it and you will be more than HAPPY :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Gime more snow i need to go
TB
PS.
Thanks Freddies and you test pilots that ran the dyno
Found the burble @ 5000 - 6000 and lowered the needles down one step and it killed the little bugger. :twisted: :twisted:
Man can i say it, This fuc$%$# thing is like something on steroids
holy #*$&@ can it move :!: :!: :!: " AWSOME " :!: :!: :!:
LET ME SAY THE BEST MONEY SPENT SO FAR BAR NONE ......
Get the ECP Filter Kit, Plugs, and jets along with red holtz springs
or silver (red works for me) Gut the exhaust or get a aftermarket can
clutch it and you will be more than HAPPY :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Gime more snow i need to go
TB
PS.
Thanks Freddies and you test pilots that ran the dyno
1xr
Expert
My burble didn't disapear until I droped then two, one clip didn't chage it.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Are you guys actually LEANING out the midrange? I understand burbles are from a too rich jetting condition. And yes that makes sense that you would drop the needles to kill the burble but, I would think with the increase in airflow provided by the K&Ns if anything the midrange with the needles in the stock position should be running lean????? Maybe someone can explain that to me? PB
1xr
Expert
No pb I lowered the clips and raised the needles to make it richer. I tried every clip position, it didn't go away until the needle was raised all the way. It's strange it takes a completely different position for everyone here. I made a mistake in wording in the post above.
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
:wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:
Glad you are happy TB!
Thanks,
Freddie
Glad you are happy TB!
Thanks,
Freddie
TB
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I had the burble bad today too. I will be raising my needles one click at a time until it's bearable. This poor man's turbo setup really seems to haul the mail :lol: PB
treewhacker
Expert
I thought a burble was from too rich. Raising the needle would make it even richer. If it's rich enough to burble, you need to lower main jet size.
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
treewhacker said:
The burble is there when the sleds are stock. You just don't notice it as much because the stock airbox acts like a muffler. You can make it worse and better but probably not make it go completely away. Some say it has though.
With my kit, the powercurve is improved so much versus stock that this burble gets accentuated because the clutching gets improved as well with the new found and improved torque curve. With the stock airbox and jetting, the torque curve literally "flatlines" in the offending RPM area that everyone experiences this at thereby masking the burble into a "I can't feel it" scenario. That makes perfect sense because you are also not accelerating due to the flatline in the torque curve! :lol: It merely becomes a noise anyway and does not affect acceleration...unless your is worse than everybody elses?
Freddie
longshot
Extreme
ecp filters
Freddie- some input for you. My machine more than burbled in the 5- 7k range. Raised the needles to richen it up. It got better but not rideable with either the red or silver springs. I think my setup will require 1 or 2 sizes bigger pilots. Waiting on them so I put stock airbox and settings back on and machine ran perfectly! How do you figure. One thing that might be helpful is to have the guys run their machine all stock before they try the filter setup. Most of us are coming off storage so when something goes wrong it could be plugged pilots, fouled plugs or whatever. At least if you have a baseline-knowing that the sled is running good stock before you start, it eliminates some of the second guessing if the sled does't perform with the kit. I guess these puppies each have their own eccentricities but on mine I pretty much know what the next step is. Hope this was of some help to everyone. By the way the fuel screws were set at 2 full turns- max rich. Good luck and keep the info flowing.
Freddie- some input for you. My machine more than burbled in the 5- 7k range. Raised the needles to richen it up. It got better but not rideable with either the red or silver springs. I think my setup will require 1 or 2 sizes bigger pilots. Waiting on them so I put stock airbox and settings back on and machine ran perfectly! How do you figure. One thing that might be helpful is to have the guys run their machine all stock before they try the filter setup. Most of us are coming off storage so when something goes wrong it could be plugged pilots, fouled plugs or whatever. At least if you have a baseline-knowing that the sled is running good stock before you start, it eliminates some of the second guessing if the sled does't perform with the kit. I guess these puppies each have their own eccentricities but on mine I pretty much know what the next step is. Hope this was of some help to everyone. By the way the fuel screws were set at 2 full turns- max rich. Good luck and keep the info flowing.
1xr
Expert
Longshot try raiseing the needle to last clip. I raised it one position and did not cure it. But two notchs up did. I also have red springs stock size pilots and 2and1/4 turns on the fuel screws.
longshot
Extreme
I found it
tx 1xr I will give it a try. I also have heard that some people have been experimenting with needle changes. Specifically, a richer taper- anyone know anything bout this? Like the old style mikunis, I am sure there is an overlap in the various circuits so there is more than 1 way to fix a carburation issue in the midrange. Lots of fun picking up that little spring with telephone pole fingers!
tx 1xr I will give it a try. I also have heard that some people have been experimenting with needle changes. Specifically, a richer taper- anyone know anything bout this? Like the old style mikunis, I am sure there is an overlap in the various circuits so there is more than 1 way to fix a carburation issue in the midrange. Lots of fun picking up that little spring with telephone pole fingers!
Similar threads
