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I hope I don't regret this


number1kyster said:
I don't care what anyone says, snocross sleds are the highest maintenance machines, period. My cousin has a IqR 600 and it requires a lot of tinkering and can't really be trail ridden.

If you trail ride the viper will have been a much better choice. If you are looking for a ditch pickle than you picked the right sled.

I agree, I have a friend who has a snopro that he raced for a year or two when he was younger. He trail converted it to a 600 from a 440 but even with doing that it is still a pain in the #*$&@ and he hardly rides it. He goes through hyfax's twice as fast as my RX1's. He rides half as much as I do and does nearly the same amount of maintenance.
 
Nice! Don't listen to the negative nancy's. The RS is an XP same as all the rest but is reinforced and comes with way higher end shocks than the consumer versions. They are made to run on 92 octane so you'll have to pay attention to your fuel quality and jetting. It's not that big of a deal but more hassle than a 4-stroke or fuel injected 2-stroke.

Revalve your shocks for your weight and riding conditions. The sno-x settings are too stiff for trail use and it will ride like board until you soften up the damping. You may also want to regear it for higher top speed if its got the sno-x gears in it.

Enjoy your sled! The handling, light weight and capability of the suspension will be impressive once you get it dialed in. The RS race sleds are probably the easiest to convert over to trail use since they share so much with the XP.
 
AKrider said:
Nice! Don't listen to the negative nancy's.
I am not Negative Nancy, but very much Realistic Ricky...

Using a proper snocross sled as trail sled is, in general, not a very good idea. Only talking from my own experience, as I have already tried it, kind of.

Yes, a snocross sled comes with high end shocks. But unless you do something about the delivery spec, they are going to be way too stiff for any normal trail and this usually means comfort, stability and general handling will be nowhere near a proper, well calibrated trail sled. Center of gravity and general ride height is also much higher than any normal trail sled because a snocross sled does not need to turn on a flat surface, they have only banked 180 degree corners. Delivery spec clutching and gearing is made for constant on and off the throttle, always full throttle and straights no longer than fifty meters. Seriously, you do not want that in your trail sled. Same thing with delivery spec carburettor jetting. I would not do a WOT run longer than hundred meters without changing the jetting. Also, no snocross sled comes with any idler wheels at all since they always run on tracks full of snow.

Change all of this and you will have a good trail sled, you will for sure not break the chassis...!
 
Alatalo,
You bring up very good points and every one of them can be, and should be addressed by the owner of a sno-x sled if they plan to run it on trails. In stock form they are set up for short bursts of speed and are geared really low. Nothing is that hard to change and the sled can be lowered down if a guy decides he wants to. My IQR can be lowered in the rear by drilling out some additional mounting holes in the tunnel. But if a guy is going to use the sled for ditch banging and riding bumps, I'd leave it at the sno-x ride height.

The biggest pain in the butt with a race sled is jetting as the motors are more temperamental and finicky with temperature, elevation and humidity changes.
 
The sled is trail converted,I just have to redo the rear suspension. But I think anyone knows when you buy a snox sled you have to send the suspension out. Once you do that then it starts taking on a trail sled feel .I may trade it for an XRS if I do not then I wil throw more @ her
 


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