apex yooper
Expert
I had a thought while reading about using the narrow hyfax. I wonder if that is the cause of the inner idler wheel damage. The clips that guide the track rub on the side of the hyfax to keep the track lined up. Narrow hyfax allows the track to move from side to side. Which might allow the rubber lugs to contact the wheels.
People have recommended machining the wheel mounts when using wheels with the wider bearings. I don't believe that is necessary, but the narrow hyfax might allow enough movement to cause damage.
People have recommended machining the wheel mounts when using wheels with the wider bearings. I don't believe that is necessary, but the narrow hyfax might allow enough movement to cause damage.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I've tested it out and without machining the inner idler mounts, running 04 RX-1 idler wheels, running the stock, wide hyfax and moving the track as far as it can from side to side; the inner wheels can touch the inner drive cogs on the track.
I'm not saying the wheels will definitely fail, but I was able to get them to touch the cogs so I machined the mounts to re-center the wider wheels with the wider bearing.
I'm not saying the wheels will definitely fail, but I was able to get them to touch the cogs so I machined the mounts to re-center the wider wheels with the wider bearing.
Attachments
apex yooper
Expert
idlers
ReX,
I will have to check that out. It seems like it was about .016 that people are taking off. Is that correct? I believe the space between the lugs is 1 inch. That seems like plenty of room to spare. It's hard to believe their is that close a tolerance on clearance.
I could be wrong, but I have about 400 miles on them, and see no evidence of rubbing or damage.
ReX,
I will have to check that out. It seems like it was about .016 that people are taking off. Is that correct? I believe the space between the lugs is 1 inch. That seems like plenty of room to spare. It's hard to believe their is that close a tolerance on clearance.
I could be wrong, but I have about 400 miles on them, and see no evidence of rubbing or damage.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: idlers
1.5mm or 0.060"
They were only "just" able to touch and I've heard of some guys running the wheels without machining and without issues (at least not right away).
My theory is if they can touch at all, it can only shorten the life of the idler (but it might not affect the life...).
Since I'm always looking for absolute maximum durability I figured it could only help to machine them so I did (and so did the other guys I ride with).
apex yooper said:
1.5mm or 0.060"
They were only "just" able to touch and I've heard of some guys running the wheels without machining and without issues (at least not right away).
My theory is if they can touch at all, it can only shorten the life of the idler (but it might not affect the life...).
Since I'm always looking for absolute maximum durability I figured it could only help to machine them so I did (and so did the other guys I ride with).
apex yooper
Expert
.060 is nothing compared to the amount of clearance built in.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I think you must be looking at a different "gap" than I'm talking about.
I'm talking about the clearance between the inner idler wheels and the involute drive cogs towards the center of the track (on the inside).
Nominally there isn't much clearance and with the wider and offset idlers they can touch.
0.060" isn't much, but it does re-center the wheel and make it less likely to rub.
I'm talking about the clearance between the inner idler wheels and the involute drive cogs towards the center of the track (on the inside).
Nominally there isn't much clearance and with the wider and offset idlers they can touch.
0.060" isn't much, but it does re-center the wheel and make it less likely to rub.
apex yooper
Expert
I think I just found out my idler failure cause, and maybe some of y'all.
This thread got me looking closer, and I just saw that I have seven broken clips in a row. The tabs that guides the track by rubbing on the side of the slider are broken off. It looks like the clips are wearing to the point that the tabs break off. I've never had that happen before.
This thread got me looking closer, and I just saw that I have seven broken clips in a row. The tabs that guides the track by rubbing on the side of the slider are broken off. It looks like the clips are wearing to the point that the tabs break off. I've never had that happen before.
RTX DUDE
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wheels
I went with the poo wheels and machined my mounts. easy fix. but yesterdays ride got a stone in the suspension and shreaded a wheel. It still isn't bullet proof. LOL
If I did it over, I would get the doo wheels, no machining is what everyone says?
I went with the poo wheels and machined my mounts. easy fix. but yesterdays ride got a stone in the suspension and shreaded a wheel. It still isn't bullet proof. LOL
If I did it over, I would get the doo wheels, no machining is what everyone says?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Machining to keep the wheels centered is better.
The question is "Is it absolutely necessary?"
If I was to do it again, I would still machine. I have finally decided to also run Skidoo 135mm wheels - not because I'm wearing right through hyfax, but because the "rapid wear down and potential overheated track clip" time period is too long.
The question is "Is it absolutely necessary?"
If I was to do it again, I would still machine. I have finally decided to also run Skidoo 135mm wheels - not because I'm wearing right through hyfax, but because the "rapid wear down and potential overheated track clip" time period is too long.
