Doc Harley
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With so many guys switching to "cold air intake" that protrude through the hood, why wouldn't the aftermarket take a slightly more tasteful approach?
Mold it in white, blue, green. Order a factory decal for that area and bring it home.
Example...
Mold it in white, blue, green. Order a factory decal for that area and bring it home.
Example...
Last edited:
Richard Hodgins
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The GAP cold air does exactly that but a little pricey. So there is an an option already.
Doc Harley
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Yes....but the gap ram air (which I'm a huge fan of) complicates cold air directed at the clutch and belt.The GAP cold air does exactly that but a little pricey. So there is an an option already.
stgdz
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Just pull the lid off the airbox
Doc Harley
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I like that....might have to change up the 8jp. "Cough cough"Just pull the lid off the airbox
Turboflash
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earthling
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Fugly would be that things better looking friend. You need more than beer goggles to get that thing up to fugly standards.
earthling
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With so many guys switching to "cold air intake" that protrude through the hood, why wouldn't the aftermarket take a slightly more tasteful approach?
Mold it in white, blue, green. Order a factory decal for that area and bring it home.
Example...
View attachment 170356View attachment 170357
I would probably look at punching some holes in the front air dam (8kc-k715p-00-00 labeled 26 below) the one that is v-shaped and above/behind the intercooler. A little plastic behind the hole to direct the airflow and you will have a completely invisible duct, no stickers required, and more importantly you start the airflow from the front of the primary. I would add some frogskin/outwear filter fabric. A few minutes with a large step bit will open it up (punch 4-5 holes), some filter fabric, and some plastic sheets would give you what you are looking for. If you change your mind you can simply replace that plastic piece. Its like a $20.00 part.
Doc Harley
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Fugly?!?! That's sweet. Much better then the jeep style intake. Looks like they preparing to submerge....Tommcat had this one which is a true CAI and preserves cold air to clutches - IF you don't mind FUGLY!!!
Thanks for the tip on tommcat. Found this nice looking piece...
I would probably look at punching some holes in the front air dam (8kc-k715p-00-00 labeled 26 below) the one that is v-shaped and above/behind the intercooler. A little plastic behind the hole to direct the airflow and you will have a completely invisible duct, no stickers required, and more importantly you start the airflow from the front of the primary. I would add some frogskin/outwear filter fabric. A few minutes with a large step bit will open it up (punch 4-5 holes), some filter fabric, and some plastic sheets would give you what you are looking for. If you change your mind you can simply replace that plastic piece. Its like a $20.00 part.
View attachment 170363
Hmmm....I will seriously review this. thanks. I'll need to remove the hood to share your vision. This could be it, without a doubt.
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stgdz
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I believe on of the problems with the gen2 body work is it doesn't properly vent the air. Their is apparently a service bulletin with the rx-c to swis cheese the panel by the knee. I have seen a few like this and never knew about the bulletin.
I have been looking for some more vents on the knee area of the side panels.
I have been looking for some more vents on the knee area of the side panels.
Jondmdp
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Spring checked ‘22 sidewinder SRX
I personally really like the idea and look behind this setup @KnappAttack played with. The issue he talked about was the “ram air” affect raising boost levels and leaning AFR out beyond his liking. I’ve had two thoughts on this. One, would the closed loop system compensate for that? Idk if it was around yet when he tried it out because I know his post I read were from a while back.
My second thought was what if I design the end of the tube to be “capped” inside the front of the filter but allow the air to flow in behind the cap. Not very good explanation but in the end my plan would be to keep the air from being “rammed” into the intake pipe.
I would take the smaller WAI filter I have now and tuck it closer and on an angle with the body line to give it a really clean look
My second thought was what if I design the end of the tube to be “capped” inside the front of the filter but allow the air to flow in behind the cap. Not very good explanation but in the end my plan would be to keep the air from being “rammed” into the intake pipe.
I would take the smaller WAI filter I have now and tuck it closer and on an angle with the body line to give it a really clean look
Doc Harley
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Very functional simple approach, yet still blocks cold air for clutches & belt. Capping air flow, I don't quite understand.I personally really like the idea and look behind this setup @KnappAttack played with. The issue he talked about was the “ram air” affect raising boost levels and leaning AFR out beyond his liking. I’ve had two thoughts on this. One, would the closed loop system compensate for that? Idk if it was around yet when he tried it out because I know his post I read were from a while back.
My second thought was what if I design the end of the tube to be “capped” inside the front of the filter but allow the air to flow in behind the cap. Not very good explanation but in the end my plan would be to keep the air from being “rammed” into the intake pipe.
I would take the smaller WAI filter I have now and tuck it closer and on an angle with the body line to give it a really clean look
View attachment 170369
I haven't figured out what role the housing plays at directing air flow??? Maybe none.
I have a question. Hurricane & turbo Dynamics create a tune. Let's say 250h/p. Delivered to the masses both in Canada & US. Some ride at -30° and others ride at +30°. Same tune for both. Well....using open loop (speed density) one of those guys should be running rich & the other should be running lean, on o a certain extent. Or am I wrong? Assuming I'm correct (Midwest boy) I should be on the richer side of things. Thus Cai should benefit us moreso.
Knapp has the data. I'm just not exactly sure if there's a specific Cai tune or if he even utilized during testing of Cai?!?!
I think closed loop can be a bigger benefit in higher elevation & more extreme conditions, either too warm or too cold conditions. Just my 02¢
Before I get flamed!!!! Extreme conditions, altitude & temps. Would benefit the most. Ben states something like that in one of his video's.
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earthling
Lifetime Member
Very functional simple approach, yet still blocks cold air for clutches & belt. Capping air flow, I don't quite understand.
I haven't figured out what role the housing plays at directing air flow??? Maybe none.
I have a question. Hurricane & turbo Dynamics create a tune. Let's say 250h/p. Delivered to the masses both in Canada & US. Some ride at -30° and others ride at +30°. Same tune for both. Well....using open loop (speed density) one of those guys should be running rich & the other should be running lean, on o a certain extent. Or am I wrong? Assuming I'm correct (Midwest boy) I should be on the richer side of things. Thus Cai should benefit us moreso.
Knapp has the data. I'm just not exactly sure I follow. Don't understand.
I think closed loop can be a bigger benefit in higher elevation & more extreme conditions, either too warm or too cold conditions. Just my 02¢
Before I get flamed!!!! Extreme conditions, altitude & temps. Would benefit the most. Ben states something like that in one of his video's.
See PM
earthling
Lifetime Member
With the above setup there is little to no ram air effect. Ram air with a 2.5" tube and no further restrictions will require about 94MPH of forward velocity. The way that thing is sticking into the breeze the airflow is going to be both turbulent and maybe lower pressure at speed.I personally really like the idea and look behind this setup @KnappAttack played with. The issue he talked about was the “ram air” affect raising boost levels and leaning AFR out beyond his liking. I’ve had two thoughts on this. One, would the closed loop system compensate for that? Idk if it was around yet when he tried it out because I know his post I read were from a while back.
My second thought was what if I design the end of the tube to be “capped” inside the front of the filter but allow the air to flow in behind the cap. Not very good explanation but in the end my plan would be to keep the air from being “rammed” into the intake pipe.
I would take the smaller WAI filter I have now and tuck it closer and on an angle with the body line to give it a really clean look
View attachment 170369
The definition of ram air in this case is that the external velocity has to exceed the volume demand from the engine (the air the turbo is sucking). The volume demand is dictated by the relationship between exhaust velocity and intake efficiency which is the gas flows on both sides of the turbine. Ultimately, for their to be any ram air effect the air has to squeeze past the turbo vanes as the turbo (free spooling compressor) can only spin as fast as the exhaust flow airspeed allows. What will happen, and probably net positive, is that the turbo won't have to work as hard (less static air friction to overcome). Ram air has a much bigger impact on NA engines. On forced induction engines its often a tradeoff between the additional friction created by the ram air device (aerodynamic drag) and net positive HP gains. Closed loop should of course bridge the gap between any additional fuel demands created by any additional airflow.
Turboflash
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I did put some large holes and Frogzskin bulkhead vents (behind intercooler) in to try to get more air. Did same for part you reference.I would probably look at punching some holes in the front air dam (8kc-k715p-00-00 labeled 26 below) the one that is v-shaped and above/behind the intercooler. A little plastic behind the hole to direct the airflow and you will have a completely invisible duct, no stickers required, and more importantly you start the airflow from the front of the primary. I would add some frogskin/outwear filter fabric. A few minutes with a large step bit will open it up (punch 4-5 holes), some filter fabric, and some plastic sheets would give you what you are looking for. If you change your mind you can simply replace that plastic piece. Its like a $20.00 part.
View attachment 170363
Many threads on additional venting here in this forum.
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