Does anyone have any tips or pointers on installing reverse on the '03 RX1? I'll be doing it this weekend and value any input I can get. Thx
RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
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- 2,127
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
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- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
RX-Fun,
Go to http://www.totallyamaha.com/ and then click on the 'Tech Page' button the left side of the main page. Then click on the picture of the RX-1 snowmobile and then click on the 'Chassis/Rear Suspensions & Drive' link. Once on that page, there is a link on how to install the RX-1 Reverse kit. I have a black RX-1 and had to install the kit since I could not get it from the factory. My dealer gave me these instructions and they were't to hard to follow. The thing that helped me the most was sorting out all the pieces so that they were easier to locate when installing.
Go to http://www.totallyamaha.com/ and then click on the 'Tech Page' button the left side of the main page. Then click on the picture of the RX-1 snowmobile and then click on the 'Chassis/Rear Suspensions & Drive' link. Once on that page, there is a link on how to install the RX-1 Reverse kit. I have a black RX-1 and had to install the kit since I could not get it from the factory. My dealer gave me these instructions and they were't to hard to follow. The thing that helped me the most was sorting out all the pieces so that they were easier to locate when installing.
reverse
Instructions were pretty clear. I did the job in about 4 hours which I thought was pretty good since I'm more of a rider than a wrencher. The only problem I had was a sheared o-ring in the collar. It hit the end of the keyway cut in the shaft and sliced the o-ring in 2. I picked up a 25x2 locally for 85 cents rather than waiting 3 days and paying $3 from Yamaha. Thanks for the link. No more yanking it off the trailer, just beep beep beep.
Instructions were pretty clear. I did the job in about 4 hours which I thought was pretty good since I'm more of a rider than a wrencher. The only problem I had was a sheared o-ring in the collar. It hit the end of the keyway cut in the shaft and sliced the o-ring in 2. I picked up a 25x2 locally for 85 cents rather than waiting 3 days and paying $3 from Yamaha. Thanks for the link. No more yanking it off the trailer, just beep beep beep.
One of the most important items is making sure that the jackshaft has the correct torque to load the tapered bearing on the clutch side. :!:
reverse
That is spec'd to 35 ft/lb...got it. I'm not much of a gear head but I am fanatical about using the torque wrench. Thanks for the pointer. (The boys used to rib me because I didn't have my torque wrench on the trail when I changed the plugs on the old Vmax)
That is spec'd to 35 ft/lb...got it. I'm not much of a gear head but I am fanatical about using the torque wrench. Thanks for the pointer. (The boys used to rib me because I didn't have my torque wrench on the trail when I changed the plugs on the old Vmax)
Totally Blue
Veteran
Very easy to do. It took me about 3 1/2 hrs. to do. One thing I did was change to synthetic gear lube after I installed mine. Also takes less gear lube for reverse than non reverse.
reverse
I used Amsoil synthetic to refill the chaincase. I run synthetic oils and lubes in everything I own. I ended up taking a polishing stone to the back of the keyway to remove the sharp edge so it wouldn't shear off the o-ring. I oiled it up and put it on with a twist but without knocking down that edge it chewed up the o-ring every time.
I used Amsoil synthetic to refill the chaincase. I run synthetic oils and lubes in everything I own. I ended up taking a polishing stone to the back of the keyway to remove the sharp edge so it wouldn't shear off the o-ring. I oiled it up and put it on with a twist but without knocking down that edge it chewed up the o-ring every time.
yamajim
Newbie
My reverse kit is on the way. I was going to have the dealer do it but now that I've looked through the instructions, it seems pretty straight forward.
RX-Fun, O-ring cutting... Are you refering to an o-ring in the collar on the jack shaft or another? May be obvious when I get there but just thinking throught the process. I'll be sure to take the edge off the keyway.
POWERHAULIC, torque on jackshaft... I see a 35 ft lb flange bolt on the drive shaft in the instructions or is there one on the jackshaft also?
This forum is great!
RX-Fun, O-ring cutting... Are you refering to an o-ring in the collar on the jack shaft or another? May be obvious when I get there but just thinking throught the process. I'll be sure to take the edge off the keyway.
POWERHAULIC, torque on jackshaft... I see a 35 ft lb flange bolt on the drive shaft in the instructions or is there one on the jackshaft also?
This forum is great!
reverse on the '03
yamajim
You are correct on the o-ring. The collar that goes on the jackshaft has a 25mm o-ring in it. As I slid it on the jackshaft, over the keyway, the o-ring caught and sliced a chunk out of it. Polish the sharp edge on the keyway a little and lube the o-ring in the collar real good. I used a twisting motion to get it past the keyway too...don't know if that helped or not. After you slide it past check the keyway to see if there is a chunk of o-ring lying in it. I ruined the original + 1 and the 3rd was the charm.
The 35 lb torque is the bolt that goes in the end of the drive shaft. It holds a collar (different collar than the one above)against a spring that goes against the #1 reverse gear. I had to jam the track so it wouldn't rotate as I torqued the bolt to 35ft\lb.
Another thing that helped me was printing out the microfisch picture from online to see a better detailed picture of all the parts.
Yes, this forum is great. A lot of good people helping people like me...I'm more of a rider than a wrencher.
yamajim
You are correct on the o-ring. The collar that goes on the jackshaft has a 25mm o-ring in it. As I slid it on the jackshaft, over the keyway, the o-ring caught and sliced a chunk out of it. Polish the sharp edge on the keyway a little and lube the o-ring in the collar real good. I used a twisting motion to get it past the keyway too...don't know if that helped or not. After you slide it past check the keyway to see if there is a chunk of o-ring lying in it. I ruined the original + 1 and the 3rd was the charm.
The 35 lb torque is the bolt that goes in the end of the drive shaft. It holds a collar (different collar than the one above)against a spring that goes against the #1 reverse gear. I had to jam the track so it wouldn't rotate as I torqued the bolt to 35ft\lb.
Another thing that helped me was printing out the microfisch picture from online to see a better detailed picture of all the parts.
Yes, this forum is great. A lot of good people helping people like me...I'm more of a rider than a wrencher.
yamajim
Newbie
I'm finaly getting to my reverse install and looked throught the parts and
have a few questions.
1. what is the torque for the 2 bolts for the plate that holds the idle gear
shaft. Since they are internal it seems important. Loctite on those?
2. Near the top of the chain case cover are two splined nuts to be pressed into the "mickey ear" holes. Is that and easy press with a c-clamp.
3. Jack shaft seal at top of chaincase cover needs to be installed to the cover. I assume lips inward and maybe tap in with a large socket before installing the cover. Is that correct??
4. I was surprised not to see a new chaincase cover gasket. Is the original usualy reusable?
5. The instructions call for a washer on bolt 24 that holds the coller, spring, and reverse gear to the drive shaft. Washer not shown in parts list or diagram. Just go without the washer???
Probaly have more questions as I go.
It's great to be able to consult with so many experts.
have a few questions.
1. what is the torque for the 2 bolts for the plate that holds the idle gear
shaft. Since they are internal it seems important. Loctite on those?
2. Near the top of the chain case cover are two splined nuts to be pressed into the "mickey ear" holes. Is that and easy press with a c-clamp.
3. Jack shaft seal at top of chaincase cover needs to be installed to the cover. I assume lips inward and maybe tap in with a large socket before installing the cover. Is that correct??
4. I was surprised not to see a new chaincase cover gasket. Is the original usualy reusable?
5. The instructions call for a washer on bolt 24 that holds the coller, spring, and reverse gear to the drive shaft. Washer not shown in parts list or diagram. Just go without the washer???
Probaly have more questions as I go.
It's great to be able to consult with so many experts.
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
be sure verything is tight and use locktite. Last year I had the bolt back out that holds the bottom gear on. Came all the way through the side of the chaincase cover.
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yamajim
Newbie
Monker, MrSled, Thanks for the pointers. In fact I found the instructions while browsing TY. I printed and read through a couple times with parts spread out on the bench for inventory. The instructions are a big help.
The questions I posted above followed my reading through the instructions.
I ordered the service manual to help with torque specs so I may have that answer.
I would appreciate a bit of help with other questions.
Thanks again.
The questions I posted above followed my reading through the instructions.
I ordered the service manual to help with torque specs so I may have that answer.
I would appreciate a bit of help with other questions.
Thanks again.
