Jackshaft bearing grease/change

[ranger1]

I just wanted to let everyone that indends on greasing their jackshaft bearing to check the backside of the bearing to see if any grease is coming out on that side. When I took the seal off mine to grease it there was no grease, dryer then a popcorn fart! When I took a picture behind the bearing I found where the grease went, apparently the seal failed.
Now I have to change the bearing instead, has anyone found a method of changing it from the clutch side as I prefer not taking the chaincase apart, thanks

 

[RobX-1]

Am curious as well as I just replaced my jack shaft and drive axle bearing on my 18 Apex XTX but I already had the chain case apart so I could remove the jack shaft. Of course doing so made re-install a breeze as I was able to freeze the jack shaft and heat the inner race of bearing for the bearing to just slide on and seat properly. Actually, I first put the bearing in the freezer and used a heat gun to heat up the bearing housing. Once the bearing was seated in the bearing housing, I then put the jack shaft in the freezer and heated up the inner race of the bearing so it could slide onto the jack. Was pretty slick as it just fell right into place.

 

[ranger1]

Am curious as well as I just replaced my jack shaft and drive axle bearing on my 18 Apex XTX but I already had the chain case apart so I could remove the jack shaft. Of course doing so made re-install a breeze as I was able to freeze the jack shaft and heat the inner race of bearing for the bearing to just slide on and seat properly. Actually, I first put the bearing in the freezer and used a heat gun to heat up the bearing housing. Once the bearing was seated in the bearing housing, I then put the jack shaft in the freezer and heated up the inner race of the bearing so it could slide onto the jack. Was pretty slick as it just fell right into place.

Ya heating and cooling the right components will definitely make the install go smoother .....sure hope I can do all that from the clutch side though

 

[Teamblue4]

Chain case has to come off (sorry) use the shaft like a slide hammer to push bearing out. easy job.

 

[biffdotorg]

Chain case has to come off (sorry) use the shaft like a slide hammer to push bearing out. easy job.

Taking the chain case off, on the other hand. Power tools are your friend there. Lots of twisting if all you got is a socket wrench.

 

[bowtietr83]

Don't be scared of the chain case, pretty easy as long as you pay attention to where the spacers are.

A couple things to note-

-The 10mm bolt in the middle of the case needs to come out, when you reinstall make sure to loctite.

-There is a torx screw in the spacer behind the brake rotor, make sure you loosen to remove and retighten

-There is a small spring between the idler gears, make sure not to lose it

-The reverse fork needs to line up when putting the cover back on, its easiest to remove the linkage and you can line it up into the ring on the bottom gear by dropping it in from the top as you are installing the cover.

-There is a washer on the back side of the chain case that butts up against a snap ring on the jackshaft, be careful not to lose it as sometimes it will stick to the chain case.

Other than that, loosen the nut on the engine side of the bearing behind the secondary, remove the snap ring and give the bearing a couple good whacks with the jacksshaft and it will come right out.

 

[ranger1]

Don't be scared of the chain case, pretty easy as long as you pay attention to where the spacers are.

A couple things to note-

-The 10mm bolt in the middle of the case needs to come out, when you reinstall make sure to loctite.

-There is a torx screw in the spacer behind the brake rotor, make sure you loosen to remove and retighten

-There is a small spring between the idler gears, make sure not to lose it

-The reverse fork needs to line up when putting the cover back on, its easiest to remove the linkage and you can line it up into the ring on the bottom gear by dropping it in from the top as you are installing the cover.

-There is a washer on the back side of the chain case that butts up against a snap ring on the jackshaft, be careful not to lose it as sometimes it will stick to the chain case.

Other than that, loosen the nut on the engine side of the bearing behind the secondary, remove the snap ring and give the bearing a couple good whacks with the jacksshaft and it will come right out.

Thank for the help and important info as I will use this if plan "A" fails, lol!! I am going to first try and make a tool that can pop the bearing out from the inside, either slide hammer or use the threads in the jackshaft to pull the bearing out from behind it.

 

[Rockmeister]

Since you are changing the bearing, now is a good time to add The Greaser to your sled.
Makes it super easy to grease the speedo bearing & greatly reduces the risk of failure.
Have them in stock & available for the Apex/Nytro/Phazer & most any Japan made sled.
Can get on my site www.yamaheater.com

https://yamaheater.com/Products.php

If/when you remove the chaincase, remove or put a small hole in the INNER bearing seals towards the oil side of the chaincase bearings.
That way your speedo end AND your chaincase ends are taken care of and very unlikely to fail again.
Has worked for me for many years.

 

[Snorunner]

Since you are changing the bearing, now is a good time to add The Greaser to your sled.
Makes it super easy to grease the speedo bearing & greatly reduces the risk of failure.
Have them in stock & available for the Apex/Nytro/Phazer & most any Japan made sled.
Can get on my site www.yamaheater.com

https://yamaheater.com/Products.php

If/when you remove the chaincase, remove or put a small hole in the INNER bearing seals towards the oil side of the chaincase bearings.
That way your speedo end AND your chaincase ends are taken care of and very unlikely to fail again.
Has worked for me for many years.

Thanks for posting this. If you do a search on eBay for Yamaha Vector. This product comes up first. I have been wondering if it is worth it. I have a grease that has 15% of a synthetic metal conditioner in it. I have been involved with this metal conditioner since 1993. It works. This grease was tested in a lab that was heated to around 200 degrees. It lowered the bearing temp by 25 degrees. I even had customers who own Steam Locomotives report the same results. I would still be selling it but the manufacturer would not give me an assigned territory. I used to sponsor Ice Oval racers. They would put the metal conditioner itself into their bogie wheel bearings. Then they complained that if they fell off the sled. It would go all the way to the other end of the track. Hit the hay bales and they would have to walk down to the other end of the track to retrieve it. One of them even pushed his sled to the starting line to keep it cool. To the dismay of the other racers. Of course he had the belt off. Just saying keep an open mind!

 

[ranger1]

Since you are changing the bearing, now is a good time to add The Greaser to your sled.
Makes it super easy to grease the speedo bearing & greatly reduces the risk of failure.
Have them in stock & available for the Apex/Nytro/Phazer & most any Japan made sled.
Can get on my site www.yamaheater.com

https://yamaheater.com/Products.php

If/when you remove the chaincase, remove or put a small hole in the INNER bearing seals towards the oil side of the chaincase bearings.
That way your speedo end AND your chaincase ends are taken care of and very unlikely to fail again.
Has worked for me for many years.

Thanks, will check out your greaser, awesome mod!!!

 

[ranger1]

Ok I finally got around to making a tool to remove the bearing from the clutch side, the tool fits good as i cut an old bearing in half , welded it to a piece of metal and positioned it behind the bearing to be pushed out. After hammering and jacking it the darn bearing won't even budge, can't figure out why

 

[Forklift Ken]

Nothing like making your own specialty tool. It's a great thing to be able to do that. Make tools
That is. I am going to ask a dumb question is ther set screws on an extended inner race holding you up?

 

[ranger1]

Nothing like making your own specialty tool. It's a great thing to be able to do that. Make tools
That is. I am going to ask a dumb question is ther set screws on an extended inner race holding you up?

Not a dumb question at all Ken as the speedo/drive bearing has two set screws. To my knowledge there is only two circlips that hold the bearing in.....and yes I removed those, lol. Thanks for your help

 

[ranger1]

After my tool I made failed at knocking the bearing out i had no choice but to go from the chaincase side. All I can say it was waaaaaay easier than I imagined, lol! I just removed the brake assembly, unhooked the reverse linkage and removed the chancase cover. I then went to the other side and removed the two screws holding the bearing carrier and out came the jackshaft, just slide it out of the chaincase upper gear. I then removed the carrier from the bearing and pressed the bearing off the jackshaft....it was stuck on there pretty good, lol. Pressed the bearing and carrier back on and got a buddy to feed the jackshaft through the chaincase while I lined up the sprocket . Reassembled the rest and good to go

 

[sideshowBob]

Since you are changing the bearing, now is a good time to add The Greaser to your sled.
Makes it super easy to grease the speedo bearing & greatly reduces the risk of failure.
Have them in stock & available for the Apex/Nytro/Phazer & most any Japan made sled.
Can get on my site www.yamaheater.com

https://yamaheater.com/Products.php

Looks like a great product but I am not totally sold on it...yet.
When installing "The Greaser" you obviously remove the outer seal on the driveshaft bearing to allow grease to be pumped into the bearing by the greaser. It seems to me, pumping any amount of grease into the bearing, and not having a bleed hole of some sort, will displace air and old grease causing the inner bearing seal to blow out.
What am I missing here?