Jackshaft locking ring

[YammyRX1]

So I just did the jackshaft bearings on my RX-1 and decided to follow the advice here that recommends upgrading the 2003 collar to the revised collar plus locking ring. I even milled a tool to help torque that sucker down tight and thought everything was great until I checked it after 100 miles and found the locking ring had spun off and was floating on the shaft. I think I caught it in time because the only damage seems to be that the washer on the outside of the bearing was a little chewed but the bearing and nut seem good. Now the question is what did I do wrong and should I try this set up again or go back to the original that never gave me a problem? I didn't think loctite should be used here and I torqued it as tight as I could- any ideas, anyone else had this happen?

 

[oldsledhead]

Did you lock it on in the direction the shaft spins. I have not done one on my yamaha yet but the ones on the polaris can lock on in either direction, if you lock it on the wrong way it will loosen up.

 

[YammyRX1]

I think it can only go on one way, the locking collar goes inside the frame first, then the bearing and then the nut from the clutch side of the bearing. It's depressing that I spent an extra $100+ dollars in parts to avoid this very problem and now don't know what caused it.

 

[grader]

sounds like you have it backwards. the taper of the bearing is wide towards the clutch. the nut is in behind the frame on the jackshaft, and threads on pulling the bushing towards the chaincase.

 

[YammyRX1]

Sorry- I think my terminology is backwards, by locking collar I meant the nut that you hold with the shock tool inside the frame. The wide side of the taper is facing the clutch.

 

[dhkr123]

You are the only person in history that this has ever happened to. If I recall, the nut actually had a locking ring to prevent it from backing off. I believe that the only way for this to actually do what you say it did is for the bearing to freeze.

 

[MT.man]

I have found that to do a good job of tightening that nut it is best to remove the gas tank and get it from inside . On my apex what I thought was tight really wasn't when I removed the gas tank.
Just a thought.

 

[YammyRX1]

I've read a lot of posts that said they tightened it with a hammer and screwdriver and I'm 100% certain that mine was tighter than that. I'll try it again and hope for better results- definition of insanity.

 

[Crewchief47]

Put the shock spanner on the nut, put the secondary back on the shaft and tighten the nut using the secondary and your big paws. Screw the hammer screwdriver deal.......

Also, check the shaft, bearing ID and taper for any dirt or burrs.

Ooops, edit, not sure you used a screwdriver after re-reading.....

 

[Len Todd]

One thing to consider, ... is to make sure you have the collar correctly positioned on the jack-shaft. If you mis-position the collar, you can put stress on the chain case side bearing. Then, the collar will try to move causing the nut to loosen. This occurs if the nut is not tight, and it will back off the nut and the collar will move to center itself, etc.

When I set mine, I measured the axial end travel on the jack-shaft and centered the collar. Then scribed a line on the shaft. I had a hard time keeping the collar on the line as I tightened the Nut. So, it is hard to get the nut tight and keep things lined up.

I attached a figure, just in case you did not have it. And, ... as suggested, you have to get it tight. I also used locktite. If I recall correctly, I torqued mine to ~ 65 ftlbs. To do that I had a tool made up and it did have a couple inches offset in it so the actual resulting torque was a little higher than what the wrench said.

 

[YammyRX1]

I thought the collar was self-locating but what you say makes sense. Anyway, I'm going to have to rip it all apart again because the chain case oil is leaking. I checked it when I noticed the loose locking nut and it was low so I figured maybe I didn't fill it properly after doing the bearings. Then today after about 50 miles I could hear a weird noise and checked the chaincase dipstick and it was dry again. Doesn't leak when parked in the garage though so it must be a shaft seal or something that only leaks when riding. There wasn't any place to buy gear oil so I nursed it back to the trailer, hope I didn't cook the gears.

 

[grader]

probably leaked from the top inner jackshaft seal. chaincase will have to come out. grease the seals before installing so they slide on easy. if you ever loose oil on the trail remember ANY oil will get you home eg. motor, 2-stroke, tranny fluid and of course gear oil.

 

[YammyRX1]

Well, the rubber gasket must have rolled off the edge of the chaincase a little when I assembled it last time and it was just above the fill level so it wouldn't leak while sitting. The gears were probably kicking the oil right at that spot while riding and I never noticed any residual oil on the bottom so it must have been getting cleaned off by the snow. Not a drop came out when I took off the drain plug. Gears and chain not looking too good, tooth marks on the gears and chain is pretty stiff. I have a spare top gear and chain but will be looking for the bottom 38 tooth gear (8FB-47587-80-00) and the 18 tooth gear (8FB-17692-00-00). Does anyone have some for sale or know what they cost new? On the bright side nobody had to tow her home, she limped back to the trailer with a dry chaincase.

 

[grader]

royal distributing has the gears. are you running 18-38 gearing?. if so thats very low for a trail sled. stock was 24-38. a 23 or 22 would be low enough or better yet a 40 bottom.

 

[YammyRX1]

Top gear is 24 (I have a spare) and bottom is 38 (need a new one). The 18 gear is the one that is on the reverse shaft.