SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
STORM-CHASER said:
They are not sealed on the chaincase side so the oil will splash them.[/quote]
Not true. Mine went out on me last ride. They ARE sealed to prevent filings from getting in there and doing damage. Some guys who have changed these bearings are putting them in with the exposed side towards the oil.
My dealer re-installed mine with the seal on the inside BUT, he made a small nick on the seal to allow a bit of OIL in but not large enough to let any filings in.
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
STORM-CHASER said:
Your dealer is a smart man, that was a good idea that I will follow when I re-gear this Fall.
talldude1
Veteran
Yes the lower bearing on the chaincase side has no seal on the back. I always replace them with a common double sealed bearing. Think of all the metal particles in the chaincase....that cant be good for the bearing.
As for the driveshaft bearing on the clutch side, you just have to replace it yearly to be safe. OR If you can fab up a cover somehow that could have a grease zerk in it that would be great.
As for the driveshaft bearing on the clutch side, you just have to replace it yearly to be safe. OR If you can fab up a cover somehow that could have a grease zerk in it that would be great.
They should put sealed bearings in that are sealed on both sides run a oil line from the filtered engine oil to the chaincase and a return line to the oil pan. End of problem and would help cooling also.
gnip134
Expert
Does this bearing(speedo side) come out easy? Or, is there a big process to it?
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
number1kyster said:
Yep, and at about the same mileage. You can search my posts on the issue.
Basically, you should inspect that bearing every fall, or replace-it CHEAP ($35) INSURANCE as letting it go unexpectedly cost me several $100 dollars and more frustration than I needed.
AS for the chaincase side: I think those bearings are installed backwards from the factory with the seals facing the oil. When I rebuilt my case at 5000 miles, I turned it seal-side out.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
gnip134 said:
Very very easily if you get to it before it siezes.
2 torx set screws and the 4 nuts holding the anodized plate and speedo pickup. Wiggle the drive axle a little bit, and It should pull right out.
It can even be done trail-side should you hear "sqeek, squeek, rattle, rattle," Just get to it BEFORE the Speedo quits working.
gnip134
Expert
Sweet, thx.
gnip134
Expert
Ok, I have checked mine and yes, it is all rusty inside the bearing and dry as a bone. Now, I have taken all 4 nuts off, and losened the 2 torx set screws on the back side. The thing is not coming out easy. Is there something I am missing?
gnip 134
I hope you did not forget to loosen your track before trying to change the PTO side drive axle bearing. If you have got it loose then a few taps on the bearing should break it loose.
I hope you did not forget to loosen your track before trying to change the PTO side drive axle bearing. If you have got it loose then a few taps on the bearing should break it loose.
gnip134
Expert
It was pretty loose(So I think), but maybe I need to loosen it more. I will check.
It just seems that the bearing is kinda stuck on that shaft.
It just seems that the bearing is kinda stuck on that shaft.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
gnip134 said:
You may have to persuade it a little. Spray the snot out of it with Liquid-wrench, or that other stuff that comes in the tiny bottles works really good too, and let it sit for a few hrs. (go play 9 holes of golf)
Wiggle the axle a little and it should slide off.
When you put the new bearing in, be sure to spin the track under power, a few revs before locking down the set screws.
gnip134
Expert
Got it! I had to loosen the track a little bit more.
It's a NSK bearing. I sell to them at work, lol.
Ordered a new one.
It's a NSK bearing. I sell to them at work, lol.
Ordered a new one.
Similar threads
