Just got a stock 04 RX Warrior any things I should do before snow fall?

[Fortress]

Dose anybody know where to find some nice cheap extended throttle cables and a brake line, ive determined i will need a 6 inch handle bar lift, the stock handle bar are just a bit to low to be comfortable.

Maybe you can find a used power madd one on eBay?and a performance shop should be able to make a longer brake line

 

[Fortress]

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/372608221199

 

[Phazed Out]

Yea ill be mostly ditch banging so im defiantly looking at a handle bar raiser right of the bat, what seat do you recommend just an apex seat?

the easiest modification (and cheapest) for a seat upgrade is probably an apex seat. Just trim gas tank cover and splice some wires or switch connectors and you’re done. You should be able to pick up a good apex seat for around $200-$250 USD

 

[Phazed Out]

Yea ill be mostly ditch banging so im defiantly looking at a handle bar raiser right of the bat, what seat do you recommend just an apex seat?

Also make sure you get a pivot style riser cuz if you just add a riser block your handlebars will be closer to you. A pivot style will make it more of a “T” style and will move forward more.

 

[maim]

i used the 05 rx mountain cables and brake line when i went +4" on my o5 rx war and everything stayed in stock routing. they should still work with a +6" riser and re routing.

 

[yammiefan04]

Had the sled out a few times seems to be pretty fun but dose not seem to have power as it should, it had a tps problem were it would go into limp mode but i have since figured out how to get around it, i feel that the carbs still may be dirty, i have cleaned the jets and bowls a few times, is their anything else i should pay attention to or clean? it only dose about 80-90 wide open and boggs mid range i feel the sled should go much faster and have more power(i came from a 2 stroke 700 triple) or am i just trying to get big block power out of a pinto?

 

[yammiefan04]

i have since relised their appears to be some electric carb heaters on the bottom of the bowls, little connectors and nipples stick out the bottom of the bowls and a wire gets plug in, i do not have these, might this be were i am losing performance? Or are these just for cold days to prevent frosting over and are not really necessary?

 

[Phazed Out]

i have since relised their appears to be some electric carb heaters on the bottom of the bowls, little connectors and nipples stick out the bottom of the bowls and a wire gets plug in, i do not have these, might this be were i am losing performance? Or are these just for cold days to prevent frosting over and are not really necessary?

First change your plugs. If that fails you may have a bad coil. There are a few discussions on here about that. I think I read somewhere on this site that a few other people were having the same issue and they changed the plugs and found they had a bad coil or two.

 

[Phazed Out]

And when you say that you figured out how to get around the limp mode, how did you do that? Are you choking it? If so, then your problem is still dirty carbs, more than likely.

 

[RobX-1]

When you stated you cleaned the jets, I assume you disassembled the carbs but did you also remove the needle valve set (highlighted in yellow)? The reason I ask is that there are small screens (circled in red) that could be clogged. Some guys have removed them but I just include cleaning them in my yearly carb cleaning and syncing process.

 

[Phazed Out]

When you stated you cleaned the jets, I assume you disassembled the carbs but did you also remove the needle valve set (highlighted in yellow)? The reason I ask is that there are small screens (circled in red) that could be clogged. Some guys have removed them but I just include cleaning them in my yearly carb cleaning and syncing process.

View attachment 158442

A little off the subject but do you have detailed instructions on syncing these carbs?

 

[yammiefan04]

And when you say that you figured out how to get around the limp mode, how did you do that? Are you choking it? If so, then your problem is still dirty carbs, more than likely.

it was a TPS problem i just put some slack in the throttle line and unplugged some connectors and plugged them into themselves

 

[yammiefan04]

When you stated you cleaned the jets, I assume you disassembled the carbs but did you also remove the needle valve set (highlighted in yellow)? The reason I ask is that there are small screens (circled in red) that could be clogged. Some guys have removed them but I just include cleaning them in my yearly carb cleaning and syncing process.

View attachment 158442

I have not touched this i have only cleaned jets and bowls, this will definitely be my next move,thank you

 

[RobX-1]

A little off the subject but do you have detailed instructions on syncing these carbs?

If you have access to a service manual, it will provide pictures along with the steps. However, years ago before his passing, Freddie of ECP Performance (aka Supertuner) posted his steps and I have found them to be better than following the service manual (FYI becoming a VIP member on this site will also provide access to these service manuals). Here are those steps:

Warm the engine up good before connecting the manometer. Make sure the engine idle speed once warmed up is between 1200 and 1450 RPM's. If it is not raise or lower the idle to this specification. Shut engine off when it is good and warm, then disconnect the 2 black hoses going to the #1 and #4 intake manifold. Connect these 2 hoses together as this is what operates your fuel pump. A small piece of tubing of some kind works nicely for this. This will prevent the pumps from going airbound thereby giving you a little more time to run the engine off of what is in the float bowls only. If you are reasonably efficient, you can usually get the carbs synch'd before running the float bowls dry.

What I did was purchase a 'T' hose connector and some additional hose pieces and used the 'T' to connect one end to the extra piece of hose which will ultimately plug into the intake manifold and the other end to the manometer. I then took the stock hose that goes to the manifold and plugged it into the remaining end of the 'T'. Doing this allows you to sync your carbs without the sled running out of fuel:

Okay, so now the #1 and the #4 hoses are connected from the manometer to the intake manifolds spigots located at the top of each manifold directly in front of the valve cover. Next, remove the black rubber plugs on the #2 and the #3 intake manifolds and connect the remaining 2 lines from the manometer to these. Note that the manometer (If you bought it from me anyways) is numbered. You should put the cylinders corresponding to the number for each number on the manometer. Start the engine and let it idle. if all 4 mercury tubes are even within a small amount or very close there is no need to adjust anything. Start by adjusting the # 2 carb to the #3 carb. The adjusting screws are located between each carburetor and are a Philips head screwdriver configuration. There are 3 Philips head screws for doing this. One is between carb 1 and 2 one is between carb 2 and 3 and another between carb 3 and 4. The reason there is only 3 on a 4 cylinder engine is due to the fact that when you make an adjustment, you are adjusting one carb up and one carb down. Perform the same procedure for the #3 and the #4 carbs. These Philips head screws can be seen by looking straight down between each carburetor. If a cylinder is showing high on the manometer, adjust the screw counterclockwise. Note that you will not only be lowering that carb but also raising the one next to it so slight movements are only necessary. If it is low try moving the adjusting screw clockwise. Give the engine a few "raps" of the throttle between each adjustment to allow the engine to "stabilize" to the new setting. High revs are not required so be very careful not to allow the clutch to engage. A quick tip too...when you press down on the screwdriver to adjust each carb, you will actually change the snyc due to the fact that you are pressing on the adjustor. Don't let this fool you. Make a small adjustment and remove the screwdriver pressure from the adjusting screw and give it a moment to respond to the new setting. Reconnect all your hoses to their appropriate locations and reinstall the plugs for the to #3 and #4 manifolds.

All you are doing is matching the other three carbs to the base carb. Base carb is # 3 in an RX-1. You do not need to worry about setting all the carbs to a specific setting. It is very helpful to have a 4 tube manometer because all the carbs interact and the mercury is bouncing around to much to get a specific reading. You just want all 4 tubes equal. The throttle cable is connected to Carb #3. The bolt to adjust #2 is right next to the throttle cable. That makes #1 on the PTO side and #4 on the mag side.

 

[Phazed Out]

I have not touched this i have only cleaned jets and bowls, this will definitely be my next move,thank you

If you have access to a service manual, it will provide pictures along with the steps. However, years ago before his passing, Freddie of ECP Performance (aka Supertuner) posted his steps and I have found them to be better than following the service manual (FYI becoming a VIP member on this site will also provide access to these service manuals). Here are those steps:

Warm the engine up good before connecting the manometer. Make sure the engine idle speed once warmed up is between 1200 and 1450 RPM's. If it is not raise or lower the idle to this specification. Shut engine off when it is good and warm, then disconnect the 2 black hoses going to the #1 and #4 intake manifold. Connect these 2 hoses together as this is what operates your fuel pump. A small piece of tubing of some kind works nicely for this. This will prevent the pumps from going airbound thereby giving you a little more time to run the engine off of what is in the float bowls only. If you are reasonably efficient, you can usually get the carbs synch'd before running the float bowls dry.

What I did was purchase a 'T' hose connector and some additional hose pieces and used the 'T' to connect one end to the extra piece of hose which will ultimately plug into the intake manifold and the other end to the manometer. I then took the stock hose that goes to the manifold and plugged it into the remaining end of the 'T'. Doing this allows you to sync your carbs without the sled running out of fuel:

View attachment 158448 View attachment 158449


Okay, so now the #1 and the #4 hoses are connected from the manometer to the intake manifolds spigots located at the top of each manifold directly in front of the valve cover. Next, remove the black rubber plugs on the #2 and the #3 intake manifolds and connect the remaining 2 lines from the manometer to these. Note that the manometer (If you bought it from me anyways) is numbered. You should put the cylinders corresponding to the number for each number on the manometer. Start the engine and let it idle. if all 4 mercury tubes are even within a small amount or very close there is no need to adjust anything. Start by adjusting the # 2 carb to the #3 carb. The adjusting screws are located between each carburetor and are a Philips head screwdriver configuration. There are 3 Philips head screws for doing this. One is between carb 1 and 2 one is between carb 2 and 3 and another between carb 3 and 4. The reason there is only 3 on a 4 cylinder engine is due to the fact that when you make an adjustment, you are adjusting one carb up and one carb down. Perform the same procedure for the #3 and the #4 carbs. These Philips head screws can be seen by looking straight down between each carburetor. If a cylinder is showing high on the manometer, adjust the screw counterclockwise. Note that you will not only be lowering that carb but also raising the one next to it so slight movements are only necessary. If it is low try moving the adjusting screw clockwise. Give the engine a few "raps" of the throttle between each adjustment to allow the engine to "stabilize" to the new setting. High revs are not required so be very careful not to allow the clutch to engage. A quick tip too...when you press down on the screwdriver to adjust each carb, you will actually change the snyc due to the fact that you are pressing on the adjustor. Don't let this fool you. Make a small adjustment and remove the screwdriver pressure from the adjusting screw and give it a moment to respond to the new setting. Reconnect all your hoses to their appropriate locations and reinstall the plugs for the to #3 and #4 manifolds.

All you are doing is matching the other three carbs to the base carb. Base carb is # 3 in an RX-1. You do not need to worry about setting all the carbs to a specific setting. It is very helpful to have a 4 tube manometer because all the carbs interact and the mercury is bouncing around to much to get a specific reading. You just want all 4 tubes equal. The throttle cable is connected to Carb #3. The bolt to adjust #2 is right next to the throttle cable. That makes #1 on the PTO side and #4 on the mag side.

wow, that’s pretty detailed. I will give this a shot. Thanks for all the info!