Guess I should introduce myself first,
My name is John, and I am from the Provence of Saskatchewan, in Canada. First off I would like to say hello to all the American members, Every time I have been down south I have always had a good time.
I recently picked up a nice shape rx1 with 6600km(4200miels) on it came with a new 1-3/4" track installed last season- 100km on it, this is the first sled I will have owned so excuse me if I am a bit newbish. I can however repair almost anything once I understand it/diagnose it.
Anyway there are a few things that I would like to know more about on this machine that they don't really seem to explain in the owners manual.
The electrical carb heaters, how are they controlled? Do they shut off after the engine reaches a certain temp???
The grip warmers.... do they really suck that bad or is there something wrong lol? seem to Barely get warm.
40000km valve check... for real???? I'm tempted to do it now, or will it be a waste of time?
Other than whats in the periodic maintaince table, what should be checked over/serviced? I plan on pulling the front suspension apart and inspecting the bushings and packing it full of grease, probably a bit of lube on the steering linkages wouldn't be a bad idea either.
I'm sure I will come up with more questions later.
Also any modifications one should preform to address any known/common issues??? Yamaha is kind of famous for denying there is a problem.... and then a year later offering fixes... that you have to buy.
John
My name is John, and I am from the Provence of Saskatchewan, in Canada. First off I would like to say hello to all the American members, Every time I have been down south I have always had a good time.
I recently picked up a nice shape rx1 with 6600km(4200miels) on it came with a new 1-3/4" track installed last season- 100km on it, this is the first sled I will have owned so excuse me if I am a bit newbish. I can however repair almost anything once I understand it/diagnose it.
Anyway there are a few things that I would like to know more about on this machine that they don't really seem to explain in the owners manual.
The electrical carb heaters, how are they controlled? Do they shut off after the engine reaches a certain temp???
The grip warmers.... do they really suck that bad or is there something wrong lol? seem to Barely get warm.
40000km valve check... for real???? I'm tempted to do it now, or will it be a waste of time?
Other than whats in the periodic maintaince table, what should be checked over/serviced? I plan on pulling the front suspension apart and inspecting the bushings and packing it full of grease, probably a bit of lube on the steering linkages wouldn't be a bad idea either.
I'm sure I will come up with more questions later.
Also any modifications one should preform to address any known/common issues??? Yamaha is kind of famous for denying there is a problem.... and then a year later offering fixes... that you have to buy.
John
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
to the site John. We have guys from this site that live in Europe, Canada, U.S.A. and Australia, all riding Yamaha sleds. There are some very knowledgeable people on this site that can answer most questions. I've tried to answer a few of your questions and left the others for the experts.Handwarmers on the RX-1 / Warrior models work fine. It is the handwarmers on models beginning in 2006 that everyone has issues with. When I owned an RX-1, the only time my hands got cold with the stock handwarmers is when it is -35C or colder outside.
The 40,000km (25,000 mile) check is for real. I believe there is only one guy on this site that has reached this milestone. In my opinion, it would be a waste of your time to do now.
The carburetors on the RX-1 platform are prone to gumming up during the off season and almost always need to be cleaned before the beginning of each season.
I would inspect and check the jack-shaft bearing. This is probably in the manual but I strongly recommend you inspect, re-grease, and potentially re-pack the bearing. This is not a common problem except for people that don't perform the recommended maintenance.
Other than those two things, just ride the sled and enjoy.
As far as the handwarmers, get ahold of rockmiester on this site. He's making a warm hands controller that sends a full 12 volts to the grips and I will tell you the difference over stock is HUGE! it makes grips warm up much faster and much hotter.
Every season I go through all of the bearings and grease them with a needle greaser with synthetic grease. Don't forget jackshaft bearing as was previously mentioned.
Every season I go through all of the bearings and grease them with a needle greaser with synthetic grease. Don't forget jackshaft bearing as was previously mentioned.
megasunomi
Extreme
rx1
I d say that all of what is said is the typical issues. I would also say the rear suspension bushings too because mine seem to go bad also. mine has 8500 miles on it also.
the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings are a MUST DO, my drive s=haft bearing seized up at 7500 miles and broke the shaft clean off 1" away from the bearing on chaincase side. So I would be sure to change it out along with most every other bearing you can while you have it apart. I did the upper shaft bearings,drive shaft bearings, upper and lower chaincase bearings when I had it apart was about $325 with all bearings and shaft replaced along with a few misc. parts and bushings that I changed out in the process I think.
I can send you a PDF of the Repair manual if you dont have one just let me know your email.
Welcome!
I d say that all of what is said is the typical issues. I would also say the rear suspension bushings too because mine seem to go bad also. mine has 8500 miles on it also.
the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings are a MUST DO, my drive s=haft bearing seized up at 7500 miles and broke the shaft clean off 1" away from the bearing on chaincase side. So I would be sure to change it out along with most every other bearing you can while you have it apart. I did the upper shaft bearings,drive shaft bearings, upper and lower chaincase bearings when I had it apart was about $325 with all bearings and shaft replaced along with a few misc. parts and bushings that I changed out in the process I think.
I can send you a PDF of the Repair manual if you dont have one just let me know your email.
Welcome!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: Just purchased a RX Warrior and have some questions
The above assumes nothing was ever done to it. So, ... Once you get through this and have any more questions, or if have any specific questions during this, please feel free to ask them.
jd0270 said:
The above assumes nothing was ever done to it. So, ... Once you get through this and have any more questions, or if have any specific questions during this, please feel free to ask them.
Thanks guys so far, I have the pdf manual already.
Thanks Len, was planing on doing most of that, but the chaffing wires was something I didn't think of/know about.... The battery seems to be great( I wasn't going to check it), the previous owner had a battery tender that he stuck on it once every month. The sad thing is I do have access to a battery load tester even.
Thanks Len, was planing on doing most of that, but the chaffing wires was something I didn't think of/know about.... The battery seems to be great( I wasn't going to check it), the previous owner had a battery tender that he stuck on it once every month. The sad thing is I do have access to a battery load tester even.
cjrama
Newbie
few common upgrades to he rx1 are upgraded suspension(m10 and sc3) are common. and replace seat with an apex seat. much taller and easier to stand then the lower rx1. might also want to consider a 13 mm sway bar. sled has alot of body roll. bigger bar will address this
Yeah I am going to ride it as is right now(as far as upgrades, it does have a tilting riser block deal, and a new 1-3/4" track with extrovert drivers) and then go from there. Just pulled some of the plastic off, and the plastic skid plate, there is evidence of one or 2 contacts with rocks prior to adding the plate, nothing to serious though, The lower mounting lip on the heat exchanger is bent a little, but it looks like it will be fine. I'm likely going to have a few rocks sneak up on me too.
How normal is it to have a few dings on these sleds??? Guess it depends on the type/area of operation, its going to be mostly grain land/pasture/bit of lakes for me.
I just featherd this thing across the lawn into my 'shed' today(no snow) damn this thing wants to go.
How normal is it to have a few dings on these sleds??? Guess it depends on the type/area of operation, its going to be mostly grain land/pasture/bit of lakes for me.
I just featherd this thing across the lawn into my 'shed' today(no snow) damn this thing wants to go.
Sasquatch
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2004
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- North Western Ontario
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Not sure of the year of your sled but my 05 Warrior has crappy but apperantly no where near as bad of handwarmers as the 06 and up.
Idling the warmers barely get any power to them. Fast idle and up they get warmer. I have never been impressed with my warmers and only think of them as warm not hot. The Cats I have will burn your hands if left on high.
The Yamis however are adjustable to about 8 or so settings which is a nice touch.
Pro action skid if you have a Warrior or pre 05 RX1 is a stiff ride with hard bottoming. But I liked the handling of the sled with it. Tons of info on here for setting one up.
Sway bar needs to be stiffer then stock for best performance. 12 or 13 mm is best. Stock 10 or 11 mm gives to much body roll. If your sled has the variable rate front springs you may want to go to the straight rate 05 springs.
I think the electric carb heaters shut off when the sled warms up and the coolant then warms the carbs. Flip the carb flap forward on warm days to let the carbs cool a bit more especially for starting when hot. Carbs perc a bit and you have to hold the throttle open just a bit to get it to start. Some guys add shut off valves to stop heat soak
Stock skis suck in the deep. Some don't like the handling of them either some do.
A arm bushings wear out as do the ones in the skid. There is better bushings offered for the a arms from the aftermarket. Not sure about the skid. Check your a arms for freeplay. They are easy to change. Did mine at 8,000 miles and they when shot should have done them long before then. Front end was sloppy loose.
At 4,000 miles don't worry about the valve adjustment. It will be a long time before you have to even think about doing that.
Can't think of anything else right now.
Idling the warmers barely get any power to them. Fast idle and up they get warmer. I have never been impressed with my warmers and only think of them as warm not hot. The Cats I have will burn your hands if left on high.
The Yamis however are adjustable to about 8 or so settings which is a nice touch.
Pro action skid if you have a Warrior or pre 05 RX1 is a stiff ride with hard bottoming. But I liked the handling of the sled with it. Tons of info on here for setting one up.
Sway bar needs to be stiffer then stock for best performance. 12 or 13 mm is best. Stock 10 or 11 mm gives to much body roll. If your sled has the variable rate front springs you may want to go to the straight rate 05 springs.
I think the electric carb heaters shut off when the sled warms up and the coolant then warms the carbs. Flip the carb flap forward on warm days to let the carbs cool a bit more especially for starting when hot. Carbs perc a bit and you have to hold the throttle open just a bit to get it to start. Some guys add shut off valves to stop heat soak
Stock skis suck in the deep. Some don't like the handling of them either some do.
A arm bushings wear out as do the ones in the skid. There is better bushings offered for the a arms from the aftermarket. Not sure about the skid. Check your a arms for freeplay. They are easy to change. Did mine at 8,000 miles and they when shot should have done them long before then. Front end was sloppy loose.
At 4,000 miles don't worry about the valve adjustment. It will be a long time before you have to even think about doing that.
Can't think of anything else right now.
So I started taking stuff apart today, the front end is loose, so a bushing change is needed, where is the best place canadians can order from?? The rear skid is more than likely going to need bushings too, is there any walkthroughs on removing it entirely, wich would probably be the best way to rebuild it??
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
Here is one thread on the subject
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... ervice.htm
But there are quite a few others in that section that you might want to look at.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... ervice.htm
But there are quite a few others in that section that you might want to look at.
mikeb
Expert
I had 14,000 on my warrior before meeting a tree. The only thing I did the the motor was change the oil and one set of plugs.
I did find that I needed to rebuild the rear skid every year (about 2500 miles for me). Nothing major just the bushings (cheap) and wheel bearings. I would usually just drop the skid and redue everything before each season.
I did have the W arm problem. Had it welded twice.
I put a set of simmons on the front and they stopped the darting but did make the sled steer heavy.
I did rebuild the front at about 8000 miles but it was in good shape. The stock shocks will not make it that long. I put ohlins on the front and a pioneer on the rear.
Other than that I enjoyed the sled. It is heavy but very solid.
I did find that I needed to rebuild the rear skid every year (about 2500 miles for me). Nothing major just the bushings (cheap) and wheel bearings. I would usually just drop the skid and redue everything before each season.
I did have the W arm problem. Had it welded twice.
I put a set of simmons on the front and they stopped the darting but did make the sled steer heavy.
I did rebuild the front at about 8000 miles but it was in good shape. The stock shocks will not make it that long. I put ohlins on the front and a pioneer on the rear.
Other than that I enjoyed the sled. It is heavy but very solid.
I guess I will just start taking stuff apart, it realy must be more simple than I think it will be to remove the rear skid I know reinstalling it is going to be another matter.
I think I will just replace the bushings with oem yamaha bushings since it will actualy cost me a bit less when I factor in shipping from the US, taxes, customs fee's ect.... pluss a 2-3 week delay.
Anyone ever add grease zerk's to the fron't suspension?
I think I will just replace the bushings with oem yamaha bushings since it will actualy cost me a bit less when I factor in shipping from the US, taxes, customs fee's ect.... pluss a 2-3 week delay.
Anyone ever add grease zerk's to the fron't suspension?
mikeb
Expert
Getting the skid in and out is easy. First time is a little akward but after you get the feel its a 20 min max job.
forgot about the exhaust donuts. you should check them. not a bad job to replace but if they stay bad and damage your pipe canbe expensive. All 4 of mine where bad at 6K milles
forgot about the exhaust donuts. you should check them. not a bad job to replace but if they stay bad and damage your pipe canbe expensive. All 4 of mine where bad at 6K milles
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Maybe, ... Mikeb meant Don't forget about the exhaust donuts?
I attached a drawing from the OEM's Parts Catalog on the Suspension.
When you go to put the skid back in, put in the front bolts. Then turn the lower control rod's bolts (Item # 78) until they almost fall out. (The ones that hold the control rod together. ) Leave them with about three turns of threads engaged. That will lengthen the control rod just enough to allow you to put the rear skid bolts in last without any fighting the shock and springs. Then re-tighten the control rods' lower bolts.
Did I send you this link to the Exploded view drawings? Proceed to parts Catalog. Select Snowmobiles. Put in your year and model. Then you can see every part in the sled and get their parts numbers, etc.
CLICK HERE for Parts Drawings
I attached a drawing from the OEM's Parts Catalog on the Suspension.
When you go to put the skid back in, put in the front bolts. Then turn the lower control rod's bolts (Item # 78) until they almost fall out. (The ones that hold the control rod together. ) Leave them with about three turns of threads engaged. That will lengthen the control rod just enough to allow you to put the rear skid bolts in last without any fighting the shock and springs. Then re-tighten the control rods' lower bolts.
Did I send you this link to the Exploded view drawings? Proceed to parts Catalog. Select Snowmobiles. Put in your year and model. Then you can see every part in the sled and get their parts numbers, etc.
CLICK HERE for Parts Drawings
