DeBo
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Taken off air filter and found a white discharge from the tube in there. Also partially on air filter.
THEPASMAN
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I’ve struggled with the same issue. You haven’t said what your daltons are set at. I’ve found I get knock light with weights in the upper 70’s
Still chasing the perfect set up but I see no knock and am at 75.3 that with the xs825. I’ve figured out what many say on this site every sled is different. It definitely isn’t plug and play
Still chasing the perfect set up but I see no knock and am at 75.3 that with the xs825. I’ve figured out what many say on this site every sled is different. It definitely isn’t plug and play


jonlafon1
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2024 Catalyst RXC
2017 Sidewinder LTX-SE. 11750 miles (SOLD)
Did you get your sled dialed any better? You were blowing belts?I’ve struggled with the same issue. You haven’t said what your daltons are set at. I’ve found I get knock light with weights in the upper 70’s
Still chasing the perfect set up but I see no knock and am at 75.3 that with the xs825. I’ve figured out what many say on this site every sled is different. It definitely isn’t plug and play
THEPASMAN
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I’m real close. Haven’t blown a belt in almost 2000 miles half of that was with a Razorback temp gauge. Trail riding heat is spot on don’t see 180 no matter how hard I drive high speeds or corner to corner. Still make a lot of heat in deep snow. In the 70 to 80 mile range. Going to try some mid weight in the daltons which I’ve never done before.
Love this sled again
I hope I can find a set up that works in deep snow with out building heat
To be honest the way it is now this sled kinda scares me.
Love this sled again
I hope I can find a set up that works in deep snow with out building heat
To be honest the way it is now this sled kinda scares me.
DeBo
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Knapp it's the track. Just snapped. The track tighten bolt is one side is gone. Track is sagging off the ground 4 plus inches

KnappAttack
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Knapp it's the track. Just snapped. The track tighten bolt is one side is gone. Track is sagging off the ground 4 plus inches
There you go.
I've had to go to the billet Grip & Rip adjuster blocks and set my track fiddle string tight to keep from ratcheting and keep deto light off.
Motorhead
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Very surprised that over rev situations that result in a knock light aren’t discussed in this thread.
2 of us with MaxSpool 16 3 bar tunes, get those double red lights when playing with clutching or different belts causing over revs. Get the revs back down to the higher limits we like and no knock light even with 90 non ethanol.
I like mine at 8950-9050.
That’s when the Max rpm comes in handy, even if I only see, say 9150 or so, if I check my max rpm it may have seen a quick event of 9450-9650, so rev limiter engaged I think.
Have swapped from the 8JP to the 825 this season, and so also trying different clutching.
If I leave my 35-39 reverse helix twist at 6-1, which is where I was at with the 8JP, revs are all over. From 8400- 8800 back and forth, but no knock light. Crank that twist to 6-2 and there she is, right back to where I like it, but maybe a knock light on long WOT stretches, but mostly no. Have seen two so far this season.
My buddies sled is the same, even though he added a header this season, or no knock light until clutching for higher revs.
So if we were to clutch for stock 8750 revs, no lights would be seen! But dam those 998’s go and sound so good with higher revs!
2 of us with MaxSpool 16 3 bar tunes, get those double red lights when playing with clutching or different belts causing over revs. Get the revs back down to the higher limits we like and no knock light even with 90 non ethanol.
I like mine at 8950-9050.
That’s when the Max rpm comes in handy, even if I only see, say 9150 or so, if I check my max rpm it may have seen a quick event of 9450-9650, so rev limiter engaged I think.
Have swapped from the 8JP to the 825 this season, and so also trying different clutching.
If I leave my 35-39 reverse helix twist at 6-1, which is where I was at with the 8JP, revs are all over. From 8400- 8800 back and forth, but no knock light. Crank that twist to 6-2 and there she is, right back to where I like it, but maybe a knock light on long WOT stretches, but mostly no. Have seen two so far this season.
My buddies sled is the same, even though he added a header this season, or no knock light until clutching for higher revs.
So if we were to clutch for stock 8750 revs, no lights would be seen! But dam those 998’s go and sound so good with higher revs!
DeBo
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Knapp I just checked them out. How does that help keep the track from loosening? It loosened up a bit after a few hard runs. Something is wrong.
You should be able to tighten the rear axle enough that the adjusters aren't doing all that much
DeBo
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Yea I did and had 1 inch off at sag. Loosened up again but not as bad yet.
Worried the drive shaft may be damaged. Not sure if that would cause spin in the track or just traction issues period
Worried the drive shaft may be damaged. Not sure if that would cause spin in the track or just traction issues period

KnappAttack
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Knapp I just checked them out. How does that help keep the track from loosening? It loosened up a bit after a few hard runs. Something is wrong.
My factory ones were cast alum and broke, allowing the axel to loosen and track to ratchet. The billet ones won't break.
I see some of these new models are plastic, at least a 146" I had in a few weeks ago were. Not sure what Cat is thinking there, that crap does not belong on a turbo sled...
DeBo
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Oh man it broke. OK ill look there tomorrow and see if that's the issue.
eightpilot
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Id be more concerned about the front cooler damage if your track had 4" of sag...
DeBo
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Yea no heat exchange damage.
SledFreak
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What are you running for a tune?I’ve struggled with the same issue. You haven’t said what your daltons are set at. I’ve found I get knock light with weights in the upper 70’s
Still chasing the perfect set up but I see no knock and am at 75.3 that with the xs825. I’ve figured out what many say on this site every sled is different. It definitely isn’t plug and play
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