Late blooming 2004 Warrior

[REXnAK]

Hello all, I have a 04 that got put away after about 3000 miles. I had changed oil/filter, chain case lube and lubricated the massive number of points every year till it was parked.
At the end of the season long ago, I emptied the gas and ran it till the carbs fed no more ( but didnt drain the bowls). No ethanol full or additives.
She has sat on the trailer with its cover and under cover, topped with a good tarp ( open to air flow in back ), next to the 87 enticer that inspired it purchase.

Its been 12 years since.

I would like to put it in the shop to change the oil and tend to other issues, do i dare start it. Or should I not think about it till oils changed. Oil in it might have 200- 400 on it, but years of crankcase moisture? Being a dry sump system, might pulling the drain plug to check for buildup H2o be advisable?

Any ideas to ponder welcome.
Hoping to ride this season...

 

[Pairodice]

I would change the oil and filter, pull the tank and drain, flush and refill. Usually if you run the engine till it dies there it's very little fuel left in the bowls, and i bet what was left evaporated. I would try to start it with a shot of ether to the airbox and some fuel in the tank. If it idles fine with the choke on, but as soon add you shut it off it dies it will need pilot jets. Good luck

 

[REXnAK]

Thanks for the quick response Pairodice. I will go at the oil change for sure. Just debating how damaging it might be to move her under power to the garage from the trailer before doing the service.
Might just grab a riding buddy to pull her off the trailer and put her in the garage, to change the oil and filter before firing up.

Drive belt age has me wondering if it is a must change. Might need a complete suspension height/geometry check, not sure how well such things age.
Thanks for the well wishes.

 

[ClutchMaster]

You will want to pull the plugs, squirt about 1oz of motor oil into the cylinders and turn it over several times by hand before you start it. I would remove the carbs and disassemble them. Remove the brass and soak in carburetor cleaner. Yes change the oil 4 sure.

 

[REXnAK]

Thanks ClutchMaster. For sure she is cylinder dry. I will probably wait to pull the rack, but your right, done right a cleaning wouldn't hurt. I have built a bunch of successful carbs for many different modes of transport, so I don't mind the idea aside from the dedicated time. So I will light her up before going in.
Where do you hand roll the engine from? Primary? Clockwise or counter?
Thanks again.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Primary CCW

 

[REXnAK]

Awesome , will do.

 

[geez150]

Never turn any of these four-strokes backwards at the clutch, could be jump time. Yes I would replace the belt, take a good look at the carbs and the carb boots. Hopefully the track has been suspended or it is probably dry rotted. You sound knowledgeable, so basically anything you think you should do, do it and don't second guess it with a machine sitting this long.

 

[REXnAK]

She is lit ..

Changed, the oil and filter, pulled the plugs, shot fogging oil ( about 4 ml ) in each cylinder, removed belt as to turn over between each cylinder lube,
installed new battery.
Added 10 gallons of Regular, and let the starter do the work from there. Cranking time with choke on seemed a bit long. Multiple 6 second rolls, but once lit it idled high while cold a few seconds then purred.
Shes alittle odd missy after tip in. not a regular miss, more like its saying oh water, purrr, oh water. Mostly purty smooth, and throttle cracks sweet every time.

Thanks to all that took interest, and Happy new year to you all.

Cant wait to score a belt, re-grease her joints, and knock some corrosion off the clutches.
I was wrong about the 3000 miles tho, it had 1300 when put to sleep.