• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Latest TY Tech Video. Removable Lower Panels.

Update on my wire harness repair. Had to reattach two of the wires that were hanging on by one or two strands of the braided wire. Did that with the correct size butt connectors with shrink wrap. The other wires that were damaged had maybe one or two or none of the strands broken used several coats of liquid tape followed up by some pieces of vinal electrical tape over them. Then I put some new plastic wire shield over that and taped them up. I wish the damage wasn't so close to the connector going in to the ecu, I would have more confidence in my repair. Put the hood back on an turned on the ignition, nothing! Started to panic. Checked my fuses and the 15amp ignition fuse was blown. Replaced that and it come to life, started it brought it right up to the temp light started flashing and shut her down. No code lights popped up. So I hope I'm good!:rolleyes:
 

I would not use those on the belly pans.
I run the full skid plate, as far as the lower panels are concerned which is what the thread is about, i will use the pop pins, when it comes to the skid plate, it will likely stay riv nuts as i dont think the pop pins would last very long.....taking off the damned skid plate is the thing i definately hate the most about working on my machines, but is necessary insurance for where i ride
 
Which tool is better to buy to do this job, angular or two-handed?
 
If you're asking about the riv-nut tool, I always liked the two-handed version as I felt it crimped much better; or at least I felt I was able to crimp the riv-nut much easier than using an angle handle which tend to be one-handed. Depending on the type of material the riv-nut is (ie. steel, stainless, steel, etc.), having the larger handles to crimp the riv-nut really helps.
 
I want to buy aluminum rivets and stainless steel bolts. To avoid rust.
 
Or is it better to install stainless steel rivets and stainless steel screws?
 
Or is it better to install stainless steel rivets and stainless steel screws?

The main issue with stainless on stainless is galling. Galling is caused by the relatively soft stainless material sticking together as the threads engage creating friction either through high torque or high speed installation. To avoid galling use anti-seize or other lubricant and don't use a motorized driver to tighten the bolt/nut. If you hand install the bolts each time you really shouldn't have any issues at all. The upside of stainless on stainless is high corrosion resistance but unless you live next to the ocean you can get the same thing from zinc.
 
Will oxidation occur if a stainless steel rivet is inserted into the aluminum frame?
 
Oxidation will happen with the aluminum alone, thats what aluminum does. Galvanic corrosion will happen as a byproduct of using a stainless bolt, aluminum nut, in a through hole application. You are overthinking this. The panels aren't part of any critical load bearing structure, and while they are exposed to weather, they are not really exposed to much stress. Just use the rivnuts and bolts that are sold together in a kit, they are super cheap and if one of them looks bad, throw it out. If you really want to go whole hog on stainless, stick with stainless rivnuts if for no other reason than the expansion/contraction rate of the metals in the two parts will be very similar, unlike an aluminum rivnut and stainless bolt. You could even use aluminum bolts/rivnuts as a combo. If you do that however, make sure you protect any threads poking through the far side of the rivnut with the appropriate anti-seize or other coating (even grease) so that you minimize oxidization on the exposed bolt threads.
 
Here is my latest TY Tech Video on how to make your lower panel removable for easy access.

what size drll bit did you use to drill out the rivets?also did you use the rivnuts that came wth the tool?i bought the same one!can you over crimp them?thanks and good job wth the video.
 
what size drll bit did you use to drill out the rivets?also did you use the rivnuts that came wth the tool?i bought the same one!can you over crimp them?thanks and good job wth the video.
3/16th drill bit, no you cant over crimp if you set up on a practice piece of material, yes you can use the rivnuts that come with it but i believe they are aluminum.
 
3/16th drill bit, no you cant over crimp if you set up on a practice piece of material, yes you can use the rivnuts that come with it but i believe they are aluminum.
You can overcrimp and pull the threads out of you use the aluminum. Other then that correct!
 
Any reason a guy couldn't go with stainless nut/stainless screw and use blue loctite? Don't want them vibrating out and don't think blue will stick hard enough to spin a riv nut. This is where I was planning on going unless somebody thinks it's a bad idea.

Also, the stainless nuts are very easy to over tighten in my opinion. On my first practice nut, I pulled the threads fairly effortlessly right out of the nut.
 


Back
Top