Lets talk Aluminum bolts

[Nikolai]

Here's a link to the website Pro-Bolt USA and a direct link to their 7075 race bolts
OPP Racing sells LighTech 7075 bolts and have a much larger selection of lengths available. From what I've been able to read online, LighTech makes a high quality product.

Now, I would like to discuss where everyone thinks aluminum bolts could safely be used. Here's the list I've come up with so far.

- the 10mm bolt holding the speedo gear
- all five 8mm x 60mm bolts holding the chaincase cover
- the two 8mm bolts holding the jackshaft bearing plate to the bulkhead (behind the clutch)
- all three 8mm bolts that hold the lower driveshaft bearing plate to the bulkhead (inside the chaincase)
- all six 8mm bolts that hold the driveshaft bearing plates beneath the secondary
- the 8mm chain tensioner bolt
- all 6mm bolts throughout the chassis that hold various items such as the oil tank, ect.
- possibly the 8 mm bolts holding the tunnel to the bulkhead? I would think the rivets would keep most of the shear loads relatively low.

Any other applications? Anyone not agree with any of uses of the above bolts? I'm not sure about the driveshaft bearing retainers and I'm certainly no engineer, just looking at places where the shear loads are low.

 

[APEX 06]

With the force a sled take most of them would snap off. Hardend bolts are usedto take load(like G forces from a hit). Thats y all the rivets are steel, you would only saved a pound or two at most.

 

[rlcofmn]

With the force a sled take most of them would snap off. Hardend bolts are usedto take load(like G forces from a hit). Thats y all the rivets are steel, you would only saved a pound or two at most.

A pound or two to Caleb is 20 to the normal person.

What bolts mentioned would take the impact of a hit?
The tunnel bolts I can see, the left driveshaft plate I can see but the others I don't.

What about doubling the rivet holes in your tunnel to bulkhead joint and use #6 solid rivets and no bolts?

 

[LJ 452]

I would be a bit leery of using them in on the bearing retainers only because it's difficult to say what type of loads that area is subjected to when jumped or abused in any way. However I do think that changing any bolt that holds something less significant like rad support, voltage regulator, lightweight battery bracket, or anything that if it breaks your not going to damage that sweet ride. Since the sled is so far from stock I'm not sure how much stock you have retained. For instance, the toe holds, you could try using the aluminum there, if it breaks, no collateral damage.

 

[Super Sled]

I think your crazy too even think of this. Aluminum won't be nearly as strong as the hardened steel stock ones, sorry to say.

I fear you'll be kicking yourself when you have some broken bolts out in the bush.

 

[Nikolai]

It's not like I'm replacing subframe, a-arm, or rear suspension bolts. I'm just looking at areas where the shear loads are low enough that aluminum will handle the job. The 7075 bolts are 60% lighter than steel, it's an easy way to drop weight in the right application.

 

[bottlerocket]

If your doing this for weight savings Im thinking it will not save enough to worry about plus alumimum to aluminum with fuse itself together.

 

[Nikolai]

I drilled holes in my bulkhead sides and steering hoop a couple years ago, every ounce counts. Anti seize will keep them from fusing together. The weight loss may seem insignificant, but it all adds up in the end. Cut 4 ounces in 16 different places and all of a sudden you've lost 4 lbs. If I can drop half a pound from bolts & screws I'd be happy.

 

[bottlerocket]

Wear a half helmet and tennis shoes and get another 4oz. You have to draw a line sooner or later and starting with a heavy sled doesnt help. Buy a XP and save bucket loads of bolts. What are you looking to do?

 

[rlcofmn]

All the resposes saying why not to do it, caused me to tell Caleb to order a second set of whatever he gets.

7075 has a extremely impressive strength to weight ratio. Good work Caleb, make it happen.

 

[Nikolai]

XPs are junk and Pros are disposable pop cans. I enjoy this, it's my hobby. My goal is to be under 450 lbs turboed which isn't going to be easy. If you have to ask "why", you just don't understand the sickness Rick and I both have.

 

[judger101]

I agree, i get a thrill out of improving my sleds or any other hobbies i have. it's such a sense of accomplishment to meet your goals. I have to laugh at people who make comments like the one above. im guessing you have a hobby of something else that you are anal about.

 

[Nikolai]

The thread was started to discuss the appropriate areas to run 7075 aluminum bolts so let's keep it on topic.

 

[Off Trail Mike]

Caleb:

Very interesting. I am going to have a look at some of the possible locations too. I get some of the arguments posted, but generally there are lots of locations to try that are less structural than others. On the chaincase cover, its gotta be a good one. The diecast is taking most of the load there, I am pretty sure you could fab the cover out of carbon fiber/fiberglass and it would still be bulletproof.... Oil tank, Rad bolts, front nose cone and all the lower plastic shroud bolts. Forward header support...gotta be others.

On the bolts holding the bearing retainer/speedo mount, they are attaching a very thin steel plate to the diecast, so I would likely expect the plate to fail before the bolt (steel or alum). No need for hardend steel there IMHO.

I like your thinking on this, cause there are lots of places where the structural issues aren't at play at all. No sense in having all these "Grade 8" or metric equivalent bolts if they aren't do anything.

OTM

 

[cannondale27]

In the areas you need to keep strength you could drill the bolts to save wieght.Very little strength is lost with a hollow bolt.There are formulas out there for hole size.I believe even Yamaha has used a aluminum bolt to hold on our secondary for years and its one tough bolt!