Lets talk suspension set up

[Upstater57]

6639-001 shows as not available/discontinued.

Order the parts separately. I ordered them from my Arctic Cat dealer about 6 weeks ago and got them in about a week. One bushing is back ordered until November 6.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Huh, I coulda sworn they didn’t have a larger sway bar available for these as the biggest was already on them. I’ll look into it more. I’ve tried finding them and can’t see them anyplace

 

[1nc 2000]

I have never broke one and I ride pretty hard through the rough stuff. But I do know guys that could break an anvil. LOL

Mine broke when going slow thru the rough uneven terrain. One ski up and the other down between the bump.

 

[max rolph]

In my Stage 6 I went with the HY-gear front springs with electronic shocks set to 2" sag, (the stock was almost 3" because 20's were lowered) , also take the shock out of front of track and kick to curb as its a chinese look alike for fox... NOT A FOX SHOCK. get the QS3 or i got the 1100.00 20 click race one from 2016 or 17 cross country 2704-635/3704-177 and put the Hy-Gear dual spring in and did 2 turns of preload along with limiter up one hole from stock to create a flatter profile of track and all studs hit at same time on ground. Take couplers out for the fun factor through the woops. my shock selectors are at medium on front and soft on rear, and springs in 2nd poss on cam, im 225lbs gear on.

 

[earthling]

has anyone ever scaled their sled to see the side-to-side weight distribution? Also, to measure exactly HOW much weight is moved front to rear by the front shock spring and/or strap? I may try it out of curiosity this fall.
I know testing and adjusting is the way to get the feel and ride you want but to put actual numbers to them would be interesting.

 

[1nc 2000]

In my Stage 6 I went with the HY-gear front springs with electronic shocks set to 2" sag, (the stock was almost 3" because 20's were lowered) , also take the shock out of front of track and kick to curb as its a chinese look alike for fox... NOT A FOX SHOCK. get the QS3 or i got the 1100.00 20 click race one from 2016 or 17 cross country 2704-635/3704-177 and put the Hy-Gear dual spring in and did 2 turns of preload along with limiter up one hole from stock to create a flatter profile of track and all studs hit at same time on ground. Take couplers out for the fun factor through the woops. my shock selectors are at medium on front and soft on rear, and springs in 2nd poss on cam, im 225lbs gear on.

How do you like that center shock?
Good in the chop and moguls?
Do they have compression and rebound adjustment?

 

[max rolph]

yea it was night and day over stock.... i over killed on the shock, the Q3 is good enough though. just get rid of stock one mine was blown in 2000klm

 

[1nc 2000]

What does this video tell us?
Are we supposed to crank up the right front spring?
Did you try this on your sled?
How does that handle riding down the trail?
Does it throw the sled into a corkscrew when going thru the bumps?

 

[earthling]

What does this video tell us?
Are we supposed to crank up the right front spring?
Did you try this on your sled?
How does that handle riding down the trail?
Does it throw the sled into a corkscrew when going thru the bumps?

I was responding to @STAIN who was asking if anyone had measured the corner weights.

What this says; (probably) is that the sled has a natural right side weight bias. Because of the spring rates however and because the left and right sides are connected by the sway bar, it has little real world effect. If the spring rate is say 150lbs/inch then a 15 pound difference in weight isn't going to create much sag on one side. What it does mean however is that the sled will always act like there is 15 pounds more (or whatever the differential is) on the right side which means further that it will naturally turn right slightly easier and will naturally roll slightly more when you turn left but again, the difference is somewhat disguised by the spring rate/sway bars so... ignore it unless you want to really are hung up on having perfect balance.

I don't have a corner weight setup so no, I have not done this on my sled. Corner weight testing however will tell you a lot about what works and ultimately why it works. For instance cranking up the pre-load on your center (front shock) spring will show up as more load for that shock on the scales and less on the rear, this will allow the sled to pivot more but also could give you a harsher ride when the front shock engages first. When you are just playing with spring preload it isn't always intuitive what changing the preload does to the rest of the sled and this is further exacerbated by related issues like how you sit on the sled, how much you weigh, etc..

What I took away from the video;

The sled is naturally right side biased due to the extra 'stuff' hanging off the right side.
That natural bias probably has less effect than you might think because as the rider sits on the sled the entire left/right AND front/rear bias changes and becomes more balanced. This is a well setup design but... rider weight, position, and riding style matter.

The most important measurements are in order, the front/rear bias (with/without rider), and then the front shock/rear shock bias and then finally left/right bias. When you find something that works for you, those readings will make achieving your natural selection more repeatable because you know what works 'for you'. It will take some of the guesswork out of choosing spring combinations and preload settings. From there you attack valving because valving (and damping bias) only exist to control the natural frequency of the chosen spring rates.

 

[1nc 2000]

I was responding to @STAIN who was asking if anyone had measured the corner weights.

What this says; (probably) is that the sled has a natural right side weight bias. Because of the spring rates however and because the left and right sides are connected by the sway bar, it has little real world effect. If the spring rate is say 150lbs/inch then a 15 pound difference in weight isn't going to create much sag on one side. What it does mean however is that the sled will always act like there is 15 pounds more (or whatever the differential is) on the right side which means further that it will naturally turn right slightly easier and will naturally roll slightly more when you turn left but again, the difference is somewhat disguised by the spring rate/sway bars so... ignore it unless you want to really are hung up on having perfect balance.

I don't have a corner weight setup so no, I have not done this on my sled. Corner weight testing however will tell you a lot about what works and ultimately why it works. For instance cranking up the pre-load on your center (front shock) spring will show up as more load for that shock on the scales and less on the rear, this will allow the sled to pivot more but also could give you a harsher ride when the front shock engages first. When you are just playing with spring preload it isn't always intuitive what changing the preload does to the rest of the sled and this is further exacerbated by related issues like how you sit on the sled, how much you weigh, etc..

What I took away from the video;

The sled is naturally right side biased due to the extra 'stuff' hanging off the right side.
That natural bias probably has less effect than you might think because as the rider sits on the sled the entire left/right AND front/rear bias changes and becomes more balanced. This is a well setup design but... rider weight, position, and riding style matter.

The most important measurements are in order, the front/rear bias (with/without rider), and then the front shock/rear shock bias and then finally left/right bias. When you find something that works for you, those readings will make achieving your natural selection more repeatable because you know what works 'for you'. It will take some of the guesswork out of choosing spring combinations and preload settings. From there you attack valving because valving (and damping bias) only exist to control the natural frequency of the chosen spring rates.

Sure hope nobody sets up their front shocks like this video shows.

 

[stgdz]

So for people that have upgraded to the RR components

Is it just the bottom steel shaft and upper sliding shaft that you need? Is the upgraded steel shaft a different diameter necessitating new bushings?

 

[Upstater57]

So for people that have upgraded to the RR components

Is it just the bottom steel shaft and upper sliding shaft that you need? Is the upgraded steel shaft a different diameter necessitating new bushings?

You change both the upper sliding shaft and the lower shock shaft. No other parts needed.

 

[stgdz]

Has the part number changed through the years? I will probably just pull the 2019 RR stuff.

 

[1nc 2000]

Since your beefing up the suspension dont forget to add these to the tunnel.

Front Tunnel Saver

Front Tunnel Saver

barnofparts.com

 

[Kuzzy]

I was responding to @STAIN who was asking if anyone had measured the corner weights.

What this says; (probably) is that the sled has a natural right side weight bias. Because of the spring rates however and because the left and right sides are connected by the sway bar, it has little real world effect. If the spring rate is say 150lbs/inch then a 15 pound difference in weight isn't going to create much sag on one side. What it does mean however is that the sled will always act like there is 15 pounds more (or whatever the differential is) on the right side which means further that it will naturally turn right slightly easier and will naturally roll slightly more when you turn left but again, the difference is somewhat disguised by the spring rate/sway bars so... ignore it unless you want to really are hung up on having perfect balance.

I don't have a corner weight setup so no, I have not done this on my sled. Corner weight testing however will tell you a lot about what works and ultimately why it works. For instance cranking up the pre-load on your center (front shock) spring will show up as more load for that shock on the scales and less on the rear, this will allow the sled to pivot more but also could give you a harsher ride when the front shock engages first. When you are just playing with spring preload it isn't always intuitive what changing the preload does to the rest of the sled and this is further exacerbated by related issues like how you sit on the sled, how much you weigh, etc..

What I took away from the video;

The sled is naturally right side biased due to the extra 'stuff' hanging off the right side.
That natural bias probably has less effect than you might think because as the rider sits on the sled the entire left/right AND front/rear bias changes and becomes more balanced. This is a well setup design but... rider weight, position, and riding style matter.

The most important measurements are in order, the front/rear bias (with/without rider), and then the front shock/rear shock bias and then finally left/right bias. When you find something that works for you, those readings will make achieving your natural selection more repeatable because you know what works 'for you'. It will take some of the guesswork out of choosing spring combinations and preload settings. From there you attack valving because valving (and damping bias) only exist to control the natural frequency of the chosen spring rates.

in deep snow, my right ski (muffler side) is almost always the one that drops under the snow and gets me stuck, which spring should i soften (or stiffen) to counteract this?