Doc Harley
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To be completely honest, I've put it off till tomorrow, as I'm doing a load and go. But no matter what I share to the group there will be a logical reason for its success that has nothing to do the the heater. HahahaI don't think it would hurt one bit. It's one way to put a draw on the battery and warms the case as well as the draw warms the interior, seems like a win win to me. I like it, but have other ways to put a draw on the battery myself so don't feel the need to add a heater. All the battery need to wake up is a draw or I would imagine a charge on it possibly too, anything to get current running thru it, does't matter how it happens.
You ought to have that project completed by now Doc, how's it work for ya?
It's a "rock and a hard place" situation.
I'll be testing for a few days below zero and share that info with the group.
Turboflash
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My sled is always outside when I'm visiting up north because I'm staying in AirBB or some rented cabin or motel.It is a bit of an inconvenience but it only takes me 5min to get my battery out so no big deal for me. Plus my sled is rarely outside overnight. Most times it’s in a garage overnight
My shorai was pretty good as well the first season. It’s now 3 1/2 years old and doesn’t have the cold crank punch it had when new even with the wake-up procedure
KRK1
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Not trying to highjack the battery discussion but figure since this topic is on electronics and battery cranking power I have a question. On the 25 model sleds the voltage regulator was upped in amperage from 45 to 50 amps. What do you guys think the reason for this change is? Additional load from smart shocks and EPS a reason? Could there be a cranking power to the spark plugs issue that they discovered associated with those added features? Just wondering why this change was made...there must be a reason. Can the older sleds safely upgrade to the higher amperage regulator? Thoughts?
Doc Harley
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Guys, im going to put a nail in this one, for now. Being as truthful as possible, this testing isn't about whether my sled starts or not, or how fast it rotates during 0°.
It comes down to, whether you believe marketing hype or the science behind the lifepo4 technology. The thermo value from discharging alone is just not enough, from everything I've read. Especially under 0°F
Best thing we can do is to search the internet and do what's best for you.
For now I've completely wrapped my battery and seeing 40°F minimum above ambient every time I've checked it. So for me I'm going to turn my heaters on 15mins b4/ during cold starts, and will leave the heaters on during sub 10° riding. I'll report back any negative situations. Keep reading.....
It comes down to, whether you believe marketing hype or the science behind the lifepo4 technology. The thermo value from discharging alone is just not enough, from everything I've read. Especially under 0°F
Best thing we can do is to search the internet and do what's best for you.
For now I've completely wrapped my battery and seeing 40°F minimum above ambient every time I've checked it. So for me I'm going to turn my heaters on 15mins b4/ during cold starts, and will leave the heaters on during sub 10° riding. I'll report back any negative situations. Keep reading.....
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KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Well after spending the week in the UP with temps in the single digits and the Shorai 24 lightweight, I have to say I too am not pleased with its performance one bit. It's nothing like my old smaller 18 version of the same brand. Putting it bluntly, the 24 just plain sucks at cold weather starting performance compared to the 18 I had prior. Only multiple start tries will produce the heat to the battery that fire up the EPS, flasher and the closed loop. So that said, I really need to either use a AGM battery or use a battery heating element to produce consistent performance to fire up these items reliably. Even if we stopped for lunch for me to get the EPS, flasher and closed loop to fire up required a couple of starts and re-starts to get the codes to go away on the dash. Very frustrating for sure. Starting wasn't the problem, firing up the other things were, and not having the EPS working is not an option, it just steers way way too hard without it working. For people without EPS, flasher fire up for logging or closed loop it might be OK, but if your looking for it all to work its a hassle without a battery heater that works in the cold.
I will add that this 24 has no problem at home when coming out of a heated garage, the issue for me is when it gets cold is the EPS, flasher and closed loop not firing up. It always starts the engine, thats not the issue I have, It's having the voltage to fire up the CAN/BUS systems and the flasher bluetooth.
I will add that this 24 has no problem at home when coming out of a heated garage, the issue for me is when it gets cold is the EPS, flasher and closed loop not firing up. It always starts the engine, thats not the issue I have, It's having the voltage to fire up the CAN/BUS systems and the flasher bluetooth.
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Doc Harley
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I'm hopeful you'll stay with the shoria, do the research, development, etc. And bring a conclusion to the idea of heating the exterior of the battery to aid in internal heat production. It's more up your alley. Lol!Well after spending the week in the UP with temps in the single digits and the Shorai 24 lightweight, I have to say I too am not pleased with its performance one bit. It's nothing like my old smaller 18 version of the same brand. Putting it bluntly, the 24 just plain sucks at cold weather starting performance compared to the 18 I had prior. Only multiple start tries will produce the heat to the battery that fire up the EPS, flasher and the closed loop. So that said, I really need to either use a AGM battery or use a battery heating element to produce consistent performance to fire up these items reliably. Even if we stopped for lunch for me to get the EPS, flasher and closed loop to fire up required a couple of starts and re-starts to get the codes to go away on the dash. Very frustrating for sure. Starting wasn't the problem, firing up the other things were, and not having the EPS working is not an option, it just steers way way too hard without it working. For people without EPS, flasher fire up for logging or closed loop it might be OK, but if your looking for it all to work its a hassle without a battery heater that works in the cold.
I will add that this 24 has no problem at home when coming out of a heated garage, the issue for me is when it gets cold is the EPS, flasher and closed loop not firing up. It always starts the engine, thats not the issue I have, It's having the voltage to fire up the CAN/BUS systems and the flasher bluetooth.
I know they have changed the VR on the newer model Yamacats I suspect to help deal with greater electrical loads of EPS ect. Does anyone know the amperage of the original VRs and the updated VR amperage?
I run a Earth X battery and a lithium ion battery VR from RM Stator that is 50 amps.
I run a Earth X battery and a lithium ion battery VR from RM Stator that is 50 amps.
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