rx-1 blue reverse
Expert
I was starting to take the sled apart to replace the track and I took off my secondary and found this(see pictures). I do not know when this happened. My question is how do I get the rest of the bearing out. I took the ring out, it took some finesse, but the bearing did not budge.
Attachments
BOSSMAN711
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 50
- Age
- 57
- Location
- Washington Twp
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder LE BTX completely modified
- LOCATION
- Washington Twp MI
- YAHOO
- bigjoe667711@yahoo.com
bearing
I had the same thing last year we worked on it all day it was rough, we use a puller to put pressure on the race and heated it up and smacked the puller side to side and down until it started to move heated more and tightened the puller and it poped out be carful; not to damage the house and there are set screws in the bearing collar it's a job but it will come out :ORC
I had the same thing last year we worked on it all day it was rough, we use a puller to put pressure on the race and heated it up and smacked the puller side to side and down until it started to move heated more and tightened the puller and it poped out be carful; not to damage the house and there are set screws in the bearing collar it's a job but it will come out :ORC
BOSSMAN711
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 50
- Age
- 57
- Location
- Washington Twp
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder LE BTX completely modified
- LOCATION
- Washington Twp MI
- YAHOO
- bigjoe667711@yahoo.com
bearing
hey I live in Warren might be able to give you a hand
Joe
hey I live in Warren might be able to give you a hand
Joe
Traildemon
Pro
I'm in Warren too (13 & dequindre). Did the bearing update last year. let me know if ya need a hand 
(13 & dequindre). Did the bearing update last year. let me know if ya need a hand
rx-1 blue reverse
Expert
Thanks for the offer, I might need help I will let you know. I will properly not get to it to after the holiday
bearing race removal
The same thing happened to me last year and I took a die grinder and cut the race untill it got thin in two spots 90 deg. apart and pulled it out. It wasn't much fun and quite the job. I thought I read there was update for this problem, if so who sells it ar where can I find out about it.
The same thing happened to me last year and I took a die grinder and cut the race untill it got thin in two spots 90 deg. apart and pulled it out. It wasn't much fun and quite the job. I thought I read there was update for this problem, if so who sells it ar where can I find out about it.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
There is no update for THAT problem. The update is to keep the shaft aligned against the bearing.
The best solution for the bearing explosion problem is to replace it BEFORE it explodes. If it doesn't like to come out, it MAY help to carefully grind it.
ALTERNATIVELY!!!
If all (or enough of) the balls are still available, or other exactly matched balls are available, put the bearing back together, space the balls out evenly, and PULL against the center race. If you don't have a bearing puller, an easy way to make one is by using a BOLT, a WASHER, a LARGE PIPE (ID > bearingOD), and a PLATE with a hole in it (ie, very large washer).. Put the washer against the inner race on the INSIDE of the bearing, the big pipe on the OUTSIDE, the plate outside the big pipe, and tighten the bolt through everything.
The bearing explodes when the cage that maintains the ball spacing gets destroyed. Usually the cage gets destroyed because the balls stop turning. When all the balls end up on the same side of the bearing, it becomes possible for them to fall out. Putting the balls back in and spacing them evenly should make it possible to pull the bearing out.
The best solution for the bearing explosion problem is to replace it BEFORE it explodes. If it doesn't like to come out, it MAY help to carefully grind it.
ALTERNATIVELY!!!
If all (or enough of) the balls are still available, or other exactly matched balls are available, put the bearing back together, space the balls out evenly, and PULL against the center race. If you don't have a bearing puller, an easy way to make one is by using a BOLT, a WASHER, a LARGE PIPE (ID > bearingOD), and a PLATE with a hole in it (ie, very large washer).. Put the washer against the inner race on the INSIDE of the bearing, the big pipe on the OUTSIDE, the plate outside the big pipe, and tighten the bolt through everything.
The bearing explodes when the cage that maintains the ball spacing gets destroyed. Usually the cage gets destroyed because the balls stop turning. When all the balls end up on the same side of the bearing, it becomes possible for them to fall out. Putting the balls back in and spacing them evenly should make it possible to pull the bearing out.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
I feel for you!
I just replaced that bearing on my '04 yesterday. Fortunately, the bearing was intact, but I detected a slight "catching" and grinding (small piece of foreign material inside)
That looks allot like my drive axle bearing - or lack of and I practically destroyed the drive shaft trying to remove the inner race and locking collar. The race/collar is still froze to the end of the shaft.
You might try having a shop or qualified welder, weld a piece of steel into the outer race so you can pull the shaft, then use a long pipe through the chain-side to drive it out. Obviously, you will have to pull the chain case but I would definitely replace the chain-case bearing too to be safe.
Good-luck!
I just replaced that bearing on my '04 yesterday. Fortunately, the bearing was intact, but I detected a slight "catching" and grinding (small piece of foreign material inside)
That looks allot like my drive axle bearing - or lack of and I practically destroyed the drive shaft trying to remove the inner race and locking collar. The race/collar is still froze to the end of the shaft.
You might try having a shop or qualified welder, weld a piece of steel into the outer race so you can pull the shaft, then use a long pipe through the chain-side to drive it out. Obviously, you will have to pull the chain case but I would definitely replace the chain-case bearing too to be safe.
Good-luck!
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
Oh I agree, you gotta replace the chain case bearing on the other end of this shaft too. While you're at it, there are only 2 other bearings in the chain case, and then one more on the clutch end of the drive shaft to do. Replace them all so you don't end up doing this again in the near future.
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2004
- Messages
- 1,752
- Location
- La Salle MB
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2009 Yamaha Nytro RTX SE
Ouch that's too bad man. That bearing seems to still be giving Yamaha trouble. I had one seize on my 97 SX 700 at 50 MPH, heated up the jackshaft till is warped then it banged the secondary of the chassis. And this occured with only 2500 miles on the bearing. The reason it happened was the shaft was worn down and slipped inside the bearing. If you're not going to replace the jackshaft I would check it to make sure its not worn....but by the looks of it I would replace it.
Good Luck
Good Luck
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
QCRider said:
And don't forget the seals
You'll have about $190 US into all your bearings, collars and o-rings, and seals but it's well worth the effort. If I can get another 2 seasons and 4400 miles + after rebuilding mine, I'll be happy.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
:shock: 2nd look :shock: Did that deform the aluminum housing too!?
rx-1 blue reverse
Expert
It did, but the clip was still in and I was able to get it out, so I think it will be OK. I am taking pictures to the dealer to voice my unhappy opinion on this problem. I know it wont do any good, but I have to tell somebody.
