
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Do another comp. test using a different gauge. I threw away a snap-on gauge after I had it sent in and it still read low. 150 HP doesn't make any sense either though. You're going to need to start checking all the basics. I'm sure it is something simple your overlooking.
A
Anonymous
I will re-start it using stock injectors and no boondocker efi box (will not run boost of course!!!!)
If it runs okay, then I'll do another comp test and will post results here.
If it runs okay, then I'll do another comp test and will post results here.
A
Anonymous
Re: no vac
OOps forgot to tell... its a 2006 if it makes a difference.
powderlites said:Big injectors?? Fouled plugs, charge the battery, Install new plugs gap down to 024" set CO to -20 and install My EFI box and put back stock injectors.
Loaded up and won't clean out like carb sled and I have heard this same problem before.
It will run a lot better and more throttle response , Is it a 2006 or 2007?
OOps forgot to tell... its a 2006 if it makes a difference.
TurboKeith
Pro
I would say your intake cam is 1 tooth retarded. Even with slotting your cam sprocket .060" it should line up after you installed your spacer. Your pic shows it definitely being retarded. If you get any mismatch it should be on your exhaust side showing advanced. Each tooth of the cam is about 9 degrees of cam rotation or 18 degrees of crank rotation. If you were retarded one tooth, it would drop your dynamic compression down about a point and a half lower than you want it to be. I could see how that might affect your idle. You might want to double check the timing mark on the flywheel to make sure you are using the right one. The pics in lakercr's engine build post shows the right mark to use. If you want to really get it right, you ought to consider setting up your lobe centers with a dial indicator and a degree wheel. I have mine at 114 on the intake and 113.5 on the exhaust.
A
Anonymous
When doing cam timing, I tried to change one tooth and this rotated the cam WAY out ot the arrow on both side... so I am 100% sure my cams are correctly timed.
And yes I used the good timing mark
And yes I used the good timing mark

TurboKeith
Pro
How much head spacer did you use? stock pistons?
efiguy
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mulot30th said:No chance of leak, we pressurized the vacuum circuit to 30psi and it did not leak a bit....
Just curious as to how you did the pressure test. Did you completely block off each throttle body? Otherwise you will leak past the throttle plate (unless they are closed air-tight) or back through the intake/exhuast valves through the motor if they are open due to the camshaft. If you have a small leak, it will be more noticeable under vacuum whereas under boost the turbo will still build pressure.
Also, when you changed your ignition timing you didn't do anything to change your crankshaft timing marks from the original position, like offset the flywheel? (most just move the trigger pickup)
When troubleshooting you often have to separate the cause and the effect. For example, is your low vacuum at idle causing it to run poor or is it the effect of having bad ignition or fuel mixture?
Just remember, it may look impossible to figure out now, but once you find the problem it will all make perfect sense. I remember spending a couple hours late at night before a big ride trying to figure out why one carburetor kept spitting out fuel on a turboed RX1 - everyone insisted on a stuck float or bad inlet valve (every part on the carb got replaced) but it turned that the vent got sealed shut when the vent fittings were epoxied on. Keep at it - go one step at a time and you'll find it!
A
Anonymous
I offseted the trigger sensor itself for timing retard!! 
I re-installed stock injectors, and unplugged the hi flow fuel pump (because it increased the fuel pressure) and Now she runs PERFECTLY, 6-8 in-hg of vac and perfect idle!
So my problem is definitely fueling system...
I'm opened to suggestions guys!

I re-installed stock injectors, and unplugged the hi flow fuel pump (because it increased the fuel pressure) and Now she runs PERFECTLY, 6-8 in-hg of vac and perfect idle!
So my problem is definitely fueling system...
I'm opened to suggestions guys!
Need for Speed 2
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
call dave at powder lites. i drove my sled last night for first good run. dave was right his fuel mapping was spot on. i live on the east coast at sea level. lag what is that now. had mc last year powderlites this year big dif in the response. moluth why did you go to u.s. to buy your set up. did you run a s.c. last year. also how do you like the hyperlite secondary. glad to hear you making headway. ithink everyone was intrigued on this prblem.
A
Anonymous
Byt the way, I did buy from boondocker canada in BC , not usa.
I did not want the alpine setup for the simple reason of the way their exhaust goes to the tunnel... I routed my exhaust to the side panel (just like an open mod sled hahahaha)... I like this way much better than over the tunnel.
The hyperlite secondary works very very good as is my microbelmont!
I did not want the alpine setup for the simple reason of the way their exhaust goes to the tunnel... I routed my exhaust to the side panel (just like an open mod sled hahahaha)... I like this way much better than over the tunnel.
The hyperlite secondary works very very good as is my microbelmont!
Need for Speed 2
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
you are quiet did you get all problem solved. im curious on the low vacum was it washed down or other problem. i need to know been thinking on this all afternoon. if you need any info on controller or my set up email me .
A
Anonymous
Will try to fabricate my own compression measurement tool that will fit into those small plug holes using an old gutted spark plug and will tell you guys how many # compression it finally got.
For my EFI problem, I am still puzzled how will I solve it... Boondocker hasn't came with an answer yet... and still waiting on more info from dave at alpine.
For my EFI problem, I am still puzzled how will I solve it... Boondocker hasn't came with an answer yet... and still waiting on more info from dave at alpine.
powderlites
Expert
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EFI boondocker
Why are you still puzzled!
Buy a EFI box with program i have for Boon guys and I said if it didn't work I would take it back??
Sold over 45 boxes to boondocker guys!!
Stop playing with buttons and ride!
Why are you still puzzled!
Buy a EFI box with program i have for Boon guys and I said if it didn't work I would take it back??
Sold over 45 boxes to boondocker guys!!
Stop playing with buttons and ride!
Travis Moore
Expert
mulot30th said:Will try to fabricate my own compression measurement tool that will fit into those small plug holes using an old gutted spark plug and will tell you guys how many # compression it finally got.
For my EFI problem, I am still puzzled how will I solve it... Boondocker hasn't came with an answer yet... and still waiting on more info from dave at alpine.
The Actron compression gauge tool from Advance Auto includes the adapter you need to check compression. It's a nice gauge too!
T
TWIN TURBO
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Snap-on has a a 10mm compression gauge adaptor I have several.
I agree with TurboKieth. he's exactly right. I made a cam degree fixture and those goofy dots leave alot to be desired. But moving a tooth like you said you did should show you if your correct. By the way 1 tooth off on the intake cam is worth about 40 lbs. of compression.
I agree with TurboKieth. he's exactly right. I made a cam degree fixture and those goofy dots leave alot to be desired. But moving a tooth like you said you did should show you if your correct. By the way 1 tooth off on the intake cam is worth about 40 lbs. of compression.

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