Mtnviper
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Look's good Trxster! You may find that with the better angle of attack, that your able to run it with the front limiter straps all the way out. For good weight transfer.
Also if you notice scrape marks on the rear top of the front arm. Try tightening up the center shock preload a little more. It's caused from the front of the skid bottoming out to hard, and allowing contact between the front arm and the track clips above it.
Also with Cat skids, the track will tighten as the suspension compress'es. The "static" hang free tension will be looser then with a Yammie skid. I'm still playing with mine a bit, but I'm finding that 1.75" to 2" at 20# pull about right. (136" skid). If it's to loose you'll hear excessive slapping of the track on the front arm loops during decelleration. Some is normal, thats what the guide loops are for. If it's to tight you'll feel track vibration as the suspension compress'es.
Also if you notice scrape marks on the rear top of the front arm. Try tightening up the center shock preload a little more. It's caused from the front of the skid bottoming out to hard, and allowing contact between the front arm and the track clips above it.
Also with Cat skids, the track will tighten as the suspension compress'es. The "static" hang free tension will be looser then with a Yammie skid. I'm still playing with mine a bit, but I'm finding that 1.75" to 2" at 20# pull about right. (136" skid). If it's to loose you'll hear excessive slapping of the track on the front arm loops during decelleration. Some is normal, thats what the guide loops are for. If it's to tight you'll feel track vibration as the suspension compress'es.
Trxster
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ok, just ordered the front arm relocation kit from Holz.....supposed to make it so that the rails don't slide back when it compresses.....anyone have any experience with this? I have never seen anything come out of Holz that wasn't well thought out and well built so I am sure it will help.
Rt
Rt
doo_man
Expert
Also wondering about the Holz bracket, I bought the "guts" of an M7 skid and am having trouble deciding what to do about rails without a track change. The M7 rear suspension only works on the 141", 153" and 162" rails. Anyone know if the 141" rails will work.
lancef53
Pro
Did you get the holz kit yet?
So you used a 153 skid with a 159 track and it ended up right using the stock front holes?
So you used a 153 skid with a 159 track and it ended up right using the stock front holes?
Trxster
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yeah, 153" rails but 162" track. It lined up well. I did just get the Holz brackets and they look like they work perfect. I can't wait for snow!
T
T
Jonny Rocket
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I just picked up the last 151 skid at rvsports. Thanks for that one Trxster. It came out of an 04 KK and it has the 8" rear idlers. Do you think this will still fit in my 159? I know the 151 cat skid will fit with the 7" wheels but an a little worried about the 8" wheels. Worse case scenerio, I will have to sell the 159 and go with a 162, but I would rather stay at 159.
J.
J.
Trxster
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I would bet it will fit. The 8" wheel would only require a little extra track which would probably be withing your tension. You think about it....it is 1" bigger wheel so it is 1/2 larger radius for a very small portion of the track. The differnce of the 159-162 is only about an inch on the rail length. I guess we'll find out. Good luck and let us know how it works.
t
t
rideblue
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The 151 skid will work great for a 159 track. I used the 151 mountain cat rails for my 162, but i had to use an offset axle big wheel kit and turn it arround backwards to take up the extra track length.
AC skid works as well as, or better than the yamaha '05 skid in the deep stuff, but not as well on the trail.
AC skid parts are less expensive than yamaha too. You can get a pair of AC rails for the price of one yamaha rail.
AC skid works as well as, or better than the yamaha '05 skid in the deep stuff, but not as well on the trail.
AC skid parts are less expensive than yamaha too. You can get a pair of AC rails for the price of one yamaha rail.
rideblue
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The 151 skid will work great for a 159 track. I used the 151 mountain cat rails for my 162, but i had to use an offset axle big wheel kit and turn it arround backwards to take up the extra track length.
AC skid works as well as, or better than the yamaha '05 skid in the deep stuff, but not as well on the trail.
AC skid parts are less expensive than yamaha too. You can get a pair of AC rails for the price of one yamaha rail.
AC skid works as well as, or better than the yamaha '05 skid in the deep stuff, but not as well on the trail.
AC skid parts are less expensive than yamaha too. You can get a pair of AC rails for the price of one yamaha rail.
rideblue
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The 151 skid will work great for a 159 track. I used the 151 mountain cat rails for my 162, but i had to use an offset axle big wheel kit and turn it arround backwards to take up the extra track length.
AC skid works as well as, or better than the yamaha '05 skid in the deep stuff, but not as well on the trail.
AC skid parts are less expensive than yamaha too. You can get a pair of AC rails for the price of one yamaha rail.
AC skid works as well as, or better than the yamaha '05 skid in the deep stuff, but not as well on the trail.
AC skid parts are less expensive than yamaha too. You can get a pair of AC rails for the price of one yamaha rail.
Mtnviper
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Cat skid's give you the best ride, if you dont get to carried away with the rear arm mount drop. When the skid is mounted in a Cat tunnel the front and rear mounts are close to datum (horizontal) level with the top of the tunnel. (not factoring in the kicked up part) This is why Cat's have the kicked up tunnel, to allow full suspension travel.
For mountain use, they seem to work best with the rear mount approx 2" lower then the front mount. It help's the sled get up on the snow better, and reduces some of the excessive transfer, that Cat skid's sometime have when the mounting point's are level.
If the rear drop starts to exceed 2" from the front, you will gain running board to snow clearence, but you loose transfer. Also the ride quality starts to suffer.
When installing the skid in a sled with a straight tunnel, such as a Yamaha, there has to be some rear drop so the track dosn't bottom out in the tunnel, when landing on the tail end. With 8" wheels this could be more of an issue, since your pushing the rear of the track up another inch.
For straight tunnel mounting, the front arm mount can be lowered slightly in the tunnel, to re-gain ride quality and transfer. Also if you measure the mounting position point's off of a King Cat, remember that they use 10 tooth driver's. Which means, with 8 tooth Yammie drivers you would want the mounting points lower and further back in the tunnel. Going back also helps the angle of attack.
To get the best combination of ride, transfer, and deep snow performance. You may want to have a couple set's of holes for the front and rear tunnel mounting points. That way it's possible to raise or lower the arms to find the ride your looking for.
For mountain use, they seem to work best with the rear mount approx 2" lower then the front mount. It help's the sled get up on the snow better, and reduces some of the excessive transfer, that Cat skid's sometime have when the mounting point's are level.
If the rear drop starts to exceed 2" from the front, you will gain running board to snow clearence, but you loose transfer. Also the ride quality starts to suffer.
When installing the skid in a sled with a straight tunnel, such as a Yamaha, there has to be some rear drop so the track dosn't bottom out in the tunnel, when landing on the tail end. With 8" wheels this could be more of an issue, since your pushing the rear of the track up another inch.
For straight tunnel mounting, the front arm mount can be lowered slightly in the tunnel, to re-gain ride quality and transfer. Also if you measure the mounting position point's off of a King Cat, remember that they use 10 tooth driver's. Which means, with 8 tooth Yammie drivers you would want the mounting points lower and further back in the tunnel. Going back also helps the angle of attack.
To get the best combination of ride, transfer, and deep snow performance. You may want to have a couple set's of holes for the front and rear tunnel mounting points. That way it's possible to raise or lower the arms to find the ride your looking for.
lancef53
Pro
Good post Mtnviper
Just to clarify, a Kingkat uses a 8 tooth 3" pitch driver, which is slightly smaller than the 10 tooth 1M 2.52" drivers. I would guess that most guys are going with the 7 tooth 3" drivers in their swaps.
Just to clarify, a Kingkat uses a 8 tooth 3" pitch driver, which is slightly smaller than the 10 tooth 1M 2.52" drivers. I would guess that most guys are going with the 7 tooth 3" drivers in their swaps.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Ok, I guess it's time for me to start thinking about sleds again. My buddy (Jonny Rocket) just bought a suspension for his 159" track. I think I'd like one as well but I'd prefer to stick with my 151" finger track so what rear suspension length would I need?
Do they make a 144" that would bolt right up under a 151" RX-1M?
It's also too bad, I just put the MPI billet drop down brackets on last season. They won't work either huh?
Frosty
Do they make a 144" that would bolt right up under a 151" RX-1M?
It's also too bad, I just put the MPI billet drop down brackets on last season. They won't work either huh?
Frosty
Jonny Rocket
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I just received the Suspension today. It is the fastest color. RED. How lucky can you get. Matches my sled perfectly, and it got her in less than a week.
Frostbite, the 144" AC skid is the one you will want. It will fit in the Yamaha 151" track that you have. I think I will be pulling the suspension out of my sled this weekend and will start to make the template for the rear drop-down brackets. You are more than welcome to come over and join in on the party.
Hey Trxster, do you still have yoru template? That would help a lot. If not I will take the MPI brackets and use them for a starting point. The top portion of the MPI bracket will be the same, i will just bring the bottom portion forward a couple inches. Should be pretty easy. Then, all I will need to do is find a machine shop that can cut 1/4" aluminum. Would take me forever with a hacksaw.
Frostbite, the 144" AC skid is the one you will want. It will fit in the Yamaha 151" track that you have. I think I will be pulling the suspension out of my sled this weekend and will start to make the template for the rear drop-down brackets. You are more than welcome to come over and join in on the party.
Hey Trxster, do you still have yoru template? That would help a lot. If not I will take the MPI brackets and use them for a starting point. The top portion of the MPI bracket will be the same, i will just bring the bottom portion forward a couple inches. Should be pretty easy. Then, all I will need to do is find a machine shop that can cut 1/4" aluminum. Would take me forever with a hacksaw.

Mtnviper
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Lancef53, good point about the driver's. I had forgotten that when they went to the attack 20 track, that it is a 3" pitch track.
Frostbite, here's some more info on Cat skid's, that may help when your shopping for a skid.
03-04 1M skids were made in 136", 144", 151" and I believe 159"
The 04 rail's are lighter and use 8" rear wheel's. The 03 rails are stronger, (less likely to bend when going off large jumps) and use 6 3/8" rear wheels. Also the 04 rails have a single angle bend at the curve, while the 03 rails are a gradual bend.
The newer M7 skids are 141", 153" and 162". I believe all three lengths come with 8" rear wheels.
Frostbite, here's some more info on Cat skid's, that may help when your shopping for a skid.
03-04 1M skids were made in 136", 144", 151" and I believe 159"
The 04 rail's are lighter and use 8" rear wheel's. The 03 rails are stronger, (less likely to bend when going off large jumps) and use 6 3/8" rear wheels. Also the 04 rails have a single angle bend at the curve, while the 03 rails are a gradual bend.
The newer M7 skids are 141", 153" and 162". I believe all three lengths come with 8" rear wheels.
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