doo_man
Expert
Well, I almost have it in(M7 141" skid). Everything seems to sit right, need put 1/4" spacer in on front mounts and rear brackets are going to be a little work. Seems skid is 16-7/8" wide and so is inside of tunnel, either going to make an offset bracket or pu some stock M7 brackets and make em fit. Tension seems good, maybe need to let off a little. The skid will move back as it compresses right? Need to leave it a little loose, but not too much? Put both skids on bench prior to install, not much difference in length.
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Trxster
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
the drop brackets I made for the rear out of aluminum flexed just enough to get the rear mounts in there without any problems. You should make your own as even the AC guys are putting drop brackets due to too much transfer. That way you can have a few different holes to choose from.
T
T
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Looks good Mr. Doo Man! Man are you lucky you didn't end up with those horrible ugly looking green idler wheels 
The brackets looks like a pretty straight forward affair to me (maybe because I am/was an aircraft structural repairman) for many years.
Good work.
Frosty
The brackets looks like a pretty straight forward affair to me (maybe because I am/was an aircraft structural repairman) for many years. Good work.
Frosty
doo_man
Expert
I've got a buddy making me some nice aluminum ones and putting an offset bend in them. Will look good, had to make spacers for the front of the skid as the M7 torque arm is an 1" narrow. Fits nice, looks good. Modified tunnel extension too, nice lines now and looks stock!
Trxster
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I was re-reading the posts on this thread and thought I would take some measurements. Mtnviper, you were saying that the skid lined up almost horizontally on the AC's. So, I took a look at mine and found that in the lowest rear hole, the height of the bolt without rider is 14" and the front is 14.5". Do you think this will work ok? I could put a second mounting hole up front but will have to wait and see. Also, for you guys that got the AC skids, I have been told by more than a few on snowest that the front idler wheels are worthless. I can confirm this as when I got my skid and pulled the hifax off, the hifax were wore everywhere but directly underneath the wheels. In other words, it didn't reduce wear along any length of the rail, just under the front wheels and the inside wheels (but even between them got wore heavily). So, off came those wheels and on went my scratchers.
Rt
Rt
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Jonny Rocket
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I just got my AC skid installed and found out that a 151 king cat skid with 8" rear wheels will not fit in a 159" track on the RX-1. I actually got the skid installed but the track is so tight you could play a tune on it. So, I just had to order the 162" X 16" X 2.25" Maverick track. that should fit perfectly. I will try to post some pics when I get it installed which will not be for a couple weeks 2nd to the Yami 3" pitch drivers being on backorder until Nov 9th.
Mtnviper
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Trxster
14.5" on the front arm mount bolt? We may be talking about two different reference point's, I dont believe the tunnel is that deep.
Looking at your pic's, (nice sled) it looks like you may have approx 3-4" drop in the rear compared to the front.
The front arm to tunnel mount location will be determinded mostly by what size drivers you are using. You want to have approx 1/2-3/4" clearence between the loop on the top of the front arm and the inside of the track, with the track tensioned up, and no rider weight on the sled. If the arm is mounted to high in the tunnel, the track will ride on the loops and cause wear marks inside the track. If the arm is to low, the track will have a tendency to "loop down" into the driver's during braking.
To get the front to rear bias (height) set up correctly, work mostly with the rear mount. However if you make big changes to the rear, the front arm will need to be moved up or down also. This is to keep the front loop to track clearence correct. (moving the rear up or down will change the gap)
Looks like you have plenty of room to work with on your rear mount. If your looking for more transfer and a smoother ride, the rear mount can be moved up. The main thing to check on straight tunnel sled's, is that there is enough clearence for the track when the skid is fully compressed in the rear. (like when you land on the trail end).
I would shoot for the track to be sitting flat on the ground, with the front of the skid compressed slightly, (a little slack in the limiter strap, no rider weight on the sled). This will allow the front of the skid to extend (transfer) and lighten up the front end.
14.5" on the front arm mount bolt? We may be talking about two different reference point's, I dont believe the tunnel is that deep.
Looking at your pic's, (nice sled) it looks like you may have approx 3-4" drop in the rear compared to the front.
The front arm to tunnel mount location will be determinded mostly by what size drivers you are using. You want to have approx 1/2-3/4" clearence between the loop on the top of the front arm and the inside of the track, with the track tensioned up, and no rider weight on the sled. If the arm is mounted to high in the tunnel, the track will ride on the loops and cause wear marks inside the track. If the arm is to low, the track will have a tendency to "loop down" into the driver's during braking.
To get the front to rear bias (height) set up correctly, work mostly with the rear mount. However if you make big changes to the rear, the front arm will need to be moved up or down also. This is to keep the front loop to track clearence correct. (moving the rear up or down will change the gap)
Looks like you have plenty of room to work with on your rear mount. If your looking for more transfer and a smoother ride, the rear mount can be moved up. The main thing to check on straight tunnel sled's, is that there is enough clearence for the track when the skid is fully compressed in the rear. (like when you land on the trail end).
I would shoot for the track to be sitting flat on the ground, with the front of the skid compressed slightly, (a little slack in the limiter strap, no rider weight on the sled). This will allow the front of the skid to extend (transfer) and lighten up the front end.
Trxster
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
mtnviper,
I think I was confused when you were talking about a horizontal datum. I measured the 14" and 14.5" from the mounting bolts to the ground. However, when I look under the tunnel at the track above the H arm, it is as you said about 1/2" clearance from the track to the loops on the top of the H arm. So, I guess the front is Ok, now I am just curious about the back. I have it in the lowest hole and figured I would move it up from there. Having it as it is will give me a rougher trail ride and less transfer? So I might want to raise it up one? Thanks again for your help.
Johnny Rocket, I am really suprised about it not fitting since mine is a 153" skid and a 162" track. Did you go with larger drivers? That could have made the difference. Either way you are going to like that new track.
Todd
I think I was confused when you were talking about a horizontal datum. I measured the 14" and 14.5" from the mounting bolts to the ground. However, when I look under the tunnel at the track above the H arm, it is as you said about 1/2" clearance from the track to the loops on the top of the H arm. So, I guess the front is Ok, now I am just curious about the back. I have it in the lowest hole and figured I would move it up from there. Having it as it is will give me a rougher trail ride and less transfer? So I might want to raise it up one? Thanks again for your help.
Johnny Rocket, I am really suprised about it not fitting since mine is a 153" skid and a 162" track. Did you go with larger drivers? That could have made the difference. Either way you are going to like that new track.
Todd
Jonny Rocket
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Trxster said:
I am using the 8 tooth extroverts. I am thinking they might have sent me a 153" skid. Oh Well. I am pretty sure I will be happy with the new track.
The one thing I do like about the King cat skid is the front mount fits perfectly in the tunnel so I didn't have to put the spacers in.
J.
Mtnviper
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The horizontal line I'm refering to, would be a straight line extending back from the front half (non-kicked up part) of the tunnel. It's probably easier to think of it as if the Cat tunnel had no kick up to it. In this case the factory front and rear mounts would be the same distance down from the top of the tunnel.
Since Yamaha's do not have the kicked up tunnel, the skid need's to be mounted lower in the tunnel, then it would in a Cat.
Trxster, yes moving the rear mount up, will improve transfer and ride quality. Most likely you'll want to try a couple of different holes untill you get the ride your looking for. You may even want to drill a couple more holes in the brackets, for fine tuning. One inch up or down can make a big difference!
It is important to keep the front to rear mount spacing correct for all the hole's. There should be a noticable arch to the series of holes in the rear bracket.
Since Yamaha's do not have the kicked up tunnel, the skid need's to be mounted lower in the tunnel, then it would in a Cat.
Trxster, yes moving the rear mount up, will improve transfer and ride quality. Most likely you'll want to try a couple of different holes untill you get the ride your looking for. You may even want to drill a couple more holes in the brackets, for fine tuning. One inch up or down can make a big difference!
It is important to keep the front to rear mount spacing correct for all the hole's. There should be a noticable arch to the series of holes in the rear bracket.
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just a Question here , why go with the cat skid? we have some cat guys here that are going to after-market on the M7 because the stock skid tightens the track as it compresses and waists a lot of Horsepower.
Is it any cheaper than the new yamaha or aftermarket?
Nice work.......
Is it any cheaper than the new yamaha or aftermarket?
Nice work.......
Mtnviper
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Light weight, weight transfer, and cost are my main reason's. I paid $350 for a factory take-off 1M skid. Then sold my Yamaha skid for $350.
The 1M skid's do not have the same geometry problem as the M5-M7 skid's. Holz does have a fix for the M5-M7 skid's, it is suppose to relocate the front arm on the rail. Similiar to the 1M skid.
powder muncher, your Cat riding buddies might want to check out the Holz kit before they shell out some big bucks for an aftermarket skid!
The 1M skid's do not have the same geometry problem as the M5-M7 skid's. Holz does have a fix for the M5-M7 skid's, it is suppose to relocate the front arm on the rail. Similiar to the 1M skid.
powder muncher, your Cat riding buddies might want to check out the Holz kit before they shell out some big bucks for an aftermarket skid!
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Now it makes sense , the cat boys have been using holz stuff, I'm not sure what they do. Just thought I check in with you so you don't run into the same problem but you are ahead of it already.
doo_man
Expert
Well it's done, M7 141" installed and ready for snow. Got brackets bent and fit perfect, just have to get track tension right. I have it set looser than the M7 spec and it seems to tighten up well with weight. Will have to wait and see I guess. The approach angle is much improved!!!!
doo_man
Expert
ttt
