MC Xpress BOV

[Pykie]

Hey Guys,

Anyone know the audi part # for the Bosch plastic BOV?
I've got the factory aluminum (mits knock-off)one that came with the kit, non recirc, have decent vacuum from the small hose leading to it, but its getting stuck. I've ordered the plastic one and its week 3 or 4 and no sign of it yet tho.

I've seen a few topics about bov open at idle or closed... the one i've got is currently closed, what about the bosch?

Also the mechanical boost gauge i've got bounces like crazy at idle. Would this be linked to my defective BOV or something different? Its steady when on the throttle and fine when in boost. I'm running about 12lbs and could upload a vid/pics of BOV if needed.

 

[sledneck22]

My mechanical boost gauge bounces like crazy too when not holding steady boost. The only way to get rid of that is to buy a water filled gauge. I've seen where other people have used these and apparently have some kind of glycol in them to prevent from freezing. It will cure all bouncing boost gauges.

 

[Pykie]

Yeh that was my fear with the fluid filled, just wanted to make sure it was normal/common.

 

[sledneck22]

Yeah, I probably should have said liquid filled not water filled. I'm pretty sure they have a temperature rating on them so just check that.

 

[lakercr]

Hey Guys,

Anyone know the audi part # for the Bosch plastic BOV?
I've got the factory aluminum (mits knock-off)one that came with the kit, non recirc, have decent vacuum from the small hose leading to it, but its getting stuck. I've ordered the plastic one and its week 3 or 4 and no sign of it yet tho.

I've seen a few topics about bov open at idle or closed... the one i've got is currently closed, what about the bosch?

Also the mechanical boost gauge i've got bounces like crazy at idle. Would this be linked to my defective BOV or something different? Its steady when on the throttle and fine when in boost. I'm running about 12lbs and could upload a vid/pics of BOV if needed.

Do you have all 4 boots T'd together for your boost/vac signal? (It sounds like you probably don't). T them all together, then pull your boost signal from between the #2 & #3 cyl. Your needle should be very steady at idle.

 

[sledneck22]

It is kind of hard to see in my picture but that is the way I have mine tied together.
all teed together and spliced off between 2 and 3. The blue vacuum lines are what to look at.

 

[Pykie]

I'll check tonight! Thanks for the reply and thanks for the pic!

I've seen fluid filled fuel gauges on cars just not boost and never seen this bouncing issue.... it was always steady.

I'll take some pics when I'm in there.

 

[Pykie]

ok so here's what i've got, 1 & 4 are tee'd together, and feed gauge from one tee and BOV from another tee closer to chaincase. looks like 2 and 3 have 2 ports each. one on each are just capped off.

is cylinder #1 PTO side?

 

[Pykie]

scratch that. each cylinder has 2 ports. If facing sled and orientation is infact 4-3-2-1. Rear ports are as follows.:

4 comes off and to a tee one side to MCX box and the other to another tee, which then connects to 3-2-1 in what looks like the factory routing. Going to the Fuel pressure reg and the Pressure sensor.

Front goes from 4 to a tee feeding the BOV and then over to a tee going to boost gauge then to 1.

Is this setup ok as long as I tie in 3 and 2 and move the gauge connection over to between them?

 

[lakercr]

Your lines should look like this. The thing between #2 & #3 cylinder is a pressure transducer for a digital boost gauge. For your sled, there should be a T here feeding your gauge.