Mono overhaul.

[Coondog2707]

Okay. I need a clear answer so I can pursue an avenue of action on my sled to rectify some of the common problems affecting the Monoshock suspension.

Background:
'07 Apex GT. 5000miles. Hygear shock revalve and dual rate springs all around.

I pulled the skid to do routine seasonal shock rebuild, replace hyfax, and inspect idlers. In the process I discovered the dreaded cracked front W arm that affects so many of us. That's been sent to Welterracer for his beef up service. Well, now I am starting to spend some money, so I might as well do everything. Bushings, Idlers, the whole deal. What I need to know is:

1) What are the best rear skidframe bushing kits out there? I bought the Oilite front bushing kit from Ulmer or Pioneer (cant remember) a couple seasons ago and they have held up well. The only thing I can seem to find from either one of them are "Nylatron" bushing kits. Has anyone any feedback on these, or should I search for something else? Oilite? Stock Yamaha?

2) The 4 outer, smaller idlers are all junk. I need to replace them, but since I am this far I might as well replace ALL of them. (both the small ones and the big ones too.) Is there a set of these wheels at a reasonable price that play well together. Preferably ones that have removable, serviceable bearings and DON'T required any modifications to install. Looking for bolt on parts that are better that the junk Yammie ones that only lasted 1 season. I am not so much concerned with gaining speed or reducing hyfax wear (5000 miles on original set) as I am with reliability and not dealing with issues that are subsequent to making homemade alterations.

 

[rlbock]

wheel replacements

Look at the current accessory catalog, the spoked wheels bolt right on and have replaceable bearings. They are using these wheel on the 2010 sleds.

 

[sledneck22]

Yeah I agree, I just went through and bought all new idlers and guide wheels for mine. I went with the spoked replacment wheels. I ended up spending about $180 for everything but the top two guide wheels. I also however bought 2 of the two bolt mounts from a doo dealer for my rear inner idler wheels to prevent my idlers from delaminating. Next time I think I'm gonna go with all billet wheels and then not have to worry too much more. One last think, I checked to see if I could get a package deal for a reduced price and two local dealers and the internet couldn't find me this sought after package deal.

 

[Coondog2707]

By catalog, you are referring to Yamaha OEM?

Are the bearings replaceable, and do they make them in both sizes?

 

[rlbock]

wheels

Yes the yamaha oem accessory catolog. You can find the catolog on Port Yamahas web site and buy the wheels from them at a discount.

 

[Coondog2707]

Thanks for the info.

Anyone on the bushing kits?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

check my threads for my fixes...idlers,mounts,slider wear ect ect.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

Dan

 

[AttakDog]

Mountain Performance sells a complete rear bushing kit for $95 includes all bushings. Look like stock Yamaha bushings but easier to get as it comes in kit form

 

[copo427ss]

check my threads for my fixes...idlers,mounts,slider wear ect ect.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

Dan

go with this setup. your better off

 

[Coondog2707]

check my threads for my fixes...idlers,mounts,slider wear ect ect.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

Dan

Rocker, Thanks! I read that post and even have printed up some of the pics as references. You always seem to be a lot of help! The only thing I am not too keen on is the changeover to the two bolt mounts and going from the 130 to 135mm wheels. What whould be my reason for doing this if hyfax wear hasn't been an issue for me?
Additionally if I were to run slightly larger idlers, wouldnt the wheels on the rear axle have to correspondantly larger, as well, so they are all riding on the same plane?

 

[sledneck22]

I just went with the 2 bolt mounts and rode a little last night and all looked good! Great idea Dan and hopefully all the new wheels, slides and bushings get me through a few seasons! Nothing like overhauling half the sled... good thing the other half (motor) doesn't need to be touched!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

check my threads for my fixes...idlers,mounts,slider wear ect ect.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

Dan

Rocker, Thanks! I read that post and even have printed up some of the pics as references. You always seem to be a lot of help! The only thing I am not too keen on is the changeover to the two bolt mounts and going from the 130 to 135mm wheels. What whould be my reason for doing this if hyfax wear hasn't been an issue for me?
Additionally if I were to run slightly larger idlers, wouldnt the wheels on the rear axle have to correspondantly larger, as well, so they are all riding on the same plane?

the sliders dont wear at the rear axle at all,and there is no reason the rear axle wheels need to be oversized whatsoever.

large amt of members running 135mm wheels and all with great results...no more clip issues,slide issues,and more top speed overal,and fuel economy....

Dan

 

[jlarrabee]

Rocker, do you or anybody else have any suggestions for when your slide rail wheel mount areas have the nice smiley face cracks. I like the idea of the 2 bolt mounts but.... My '05 RX-1 monoskid rails are cracked at the front idler position (no support) the second front set is ok becuase of bracket support the middle set is cracked as well (no support). I'm not sure if the 2 bolt mount would be effective still if the upper original stock mount broke off from the stress. Any thoughts? Are there full brackets out there to replace this issue?