MP for Ice Fishing

[RJD007]

First off, I would like to thank everyone that posts in this forum for their help. I have read through most of the posts and there is a ton of good info here. I purchase my 2013 MP last April for ice fishing purposes only. The machine has 1041 miles on it, and I paid $3K for it. It had been tipped over and the windshield was broken. So, after reading through all the posts here this is what I have done to get it ready for the upcoming ice fishing season:

Changed the oil & filter. I did the mod on the front, so the filter is accessible over the left ski. The drain plug was a royal pain. The button head is just there to give you hopes it will come out – Not. Just used a good pair of vice grips and out it came. Replaced with a hex head with a magnet tip.

Changed the gear case oil and checked the tension.

Cleaned out air cleaner filter and box since it had been tipped over. There was some oil in the air box.

Replaced spark plugs

Drained fuel tank

Replaced fuel filter pad.

Could not find any grease zerks on arms.

Coolant levels look good.


What’s left to do:

Greased Speedo and driveshaft bearings

Have mechanic check alignment on clutch and clean. Never done one before.

Grease track suspension

Replace belt

Replace battery

Install ice fishing gear.


Have I missed anything, or any advice?


Thanks!

 

[Norse]

Refill fuel tank before heading out! Check track tension, ice scratchers, ski alignment and carbides, hyfaxes, hand warmers..

 

[YukonMP]

Welcome to TY. Your list is so extensive I feel a little bit lazy. I have over 14k kms on my 2014, over 90 percent of that on the ice. You will get miles and miles of reliable service ... flat riding between holes is pretty easy on a sled.

These sleds are prone to sloppy steering. I am doing pretty good with mine and I attribute that in part to my practice of giving all the ball joints a squirt of 80w/90 quite frequently.

Your 2013 should have the VK style wide ski and that is probably pretty good. If you operate in deeper snow you could add skins pretty inexpensively ... 9 or 11 wide. I just got the 11's for my VK Pro and a pair was only 200 Canuck Bucks.

 

[20/80]

These sleds are prone to icing under the tunnel, there are some fixes that some owners have come up with others just carry a ice mallet, same engine as the phazer which I had very good luck with, steering.. there's a updated steering bearing to help fix the steering slop, ball joints have play right from the factory it seems, these are great sleds with a few cons, but all sleds have cons, easy fixes though, enjoy!!

 

[RJD007]

Thanks everyone for you feedback. I plan on putting Duraflex ice scratchers on, but what location(ski's or rail). Do any of you have MP's/Lite's with ice scratchers and could post pictures?

The other issue I have is getting the belt off. I have watched Youtube and read here but I spent 1/2 hour getting the secondary to open up half way. Once I even let a little pressure off, it closes. I am putting on the park break and turning the inside of the secondary clockwise. Is there a tool or something that makes removal of the belt easier?

 

[RJD007]

Here is some picture for those that want to grease there own suspensions. This is on an MP.

 

[YukonMP]

I expect some will endorse the cable style scratchers but I've had three sets and they have never lasted a whole season. I have BRP scratchers that have lasted three seasons now. They are mounted on the rails. Here is a tip ... whenever you can shovel the shavings from the hole into the skid, that has saved me on glare ice.

There are guys on here that swear they can't understand why some of us struggle with the belts ... I struggle. And practice. It gets better after you've done it a few times.

I haven't seen any mention of sliders in your work so far. Give them a check for sure. They don't have to be new. There is a consensus that they will wear rapidly when new and then slow down. I think the wheels kick in at that point and the plastic actually hardens/tempers when it has been temp cycled a few times.

 

[RJD007]

Thanks YukonMP. I looked up the BRP rail scratchers, do you have a picture you could post for reference on mounting location? Have you seen excessive ware since they don't have replaceable tips? I like the design of both the rail and tunnel BRP scratchers.

I will look at the rails, finally got the dang belt off. It appears to have grim build up on the backside of the secondary.

 

[maim]

rinse off the helix on the secondary with brake cleaner. it does help. i woul;d then take it off and clean it with a plastic scouring pad. i have to do this on my et410, phazer II and rtx phazer secondary clutches periodically. i tend to rotate it with the park brake on and then pull the belt up into the clutch to hold it open to remove it.

 

[RJD007]

Thanks Maim, will be cleaning both of them this weekend. Have the seals off the bearings and cleaning them also. Brake cleaner on the clutches and WD on the bearings, just in-case someone knows me.

 

[sailor joe]

Thanks everyone for you feedback. I plan on putting Duraflex ice scratchers on, but what location(ski's or rail). Do any of you have MP's/Lite's with ice scratchers and could post pictures?

The other issue I have is getting the belt off. I have watched Youtube and read here but I spent 1/2 hour getting the secondary to open up half way. Once I even let a little pressure off, it closes. I am putting on the park break and turning the inside of the secondary clockwise. Is there a tool or something that makes removal of the belt easier?

get the BARN OF PARTS belt adjuster and belt changing tool..it's a$100, really nice tool.I just got one and it will be on my sled. I had the same problem you describe in changing belt..now think of being out on a lake with bitter cold wind...you could die if you can't get the belt changed because your hands and finger are too cold...get the belt changing tool, there are a couple different manufacturers...I got mine from BOP...worth every cent. Joe

 

[maim]

the mp uses a different secondary clutch than a tf.

rx1, nitro, apex, attack, venture tf /gt secondary.

phazer, venture lite, venture mp secondary, vk540. used a lot on the older pogo chassis sleds.

 

[RJD007]

Couple more questions that were brought up here:

How do I check the track tension? Link or URL?

How to tell wear on slides? no wear marks, appears to be 3/4" plus.

Cleaned both clutches with break cleaner so no black residue came out and polished them with a scotchbrite. I did not disassemble them. Just took the secondary off to grease bearing. Do I really need to take it to a mechanic to have the clutches looked at?

BRP scratchers are on order

Now what spare parts do I need to pack with me?
Standard MP tool kit
sparkplugs
fuel relay?
starter relay?
Jump start
Harbor Freight metric socket & Allen set
Sparkplug socket
Small flat blade screw driver
What else?


Have winch for slush conditions

Thanks for all your help!

 

[1nc 2000]

If you become a vip member on this site getting the manuals is one of the perks.

 

[maim]

i would carry a spare fuel relay as that is usually the one that messes up the most and the jump start box. doing the plugs can be a pain on those, so i would just add a tow strap to drag it off the lake/home for that repair.

if memory serves, if a 12mm wrench fits over the slide plastic from the side with it installed, it is time to change them.

track tension spec from yamaha is you need around 10 lb of force on a fish scale to pull the track away from the slide rails. most of us tend to run it just tight enough to stop it from skipping on the drivers.

with that milage the clutches should be ok still.