MPI/Bender stage 2 intercooler

[TT]

Add another to the boostclub - I bouhgt a used kit.

When I recived the kit the two 90 degrees plastic elbows/fittings underrneath intercooler was removed. I have bouhgt 3 new aluminium fittings and weldbungs to upgrade it from plastic, and to add a extra line to the carbslides.

I'm wondering in what direction the tip of the elbows are suppose to point towards (primary clutch, front etc)?

The reason I'm asking is that the new alu fittings have a slightly taller profil than the old plastic ones. And it looks like they might get in conflict with the battery if they are suppose to point towards the carbs, and they might get in conflict with the new fuelpump assembly if they are suppose to point towards the front of the sled. I don't want to do any welding to the intercooler before I know.

I have serached the turbo forum back and forward, but couldn't find an anwser. A picture would be nice

Thanks!

 

[TURBO TIME]

clutch side

 

[Ted Jannetty]

Add another to the boostclub - I bouhgt a used kit.

When I recived the kit the two 90 degrees plastic elbows/fittings underrneath intercooler was removed. I have bouhgt 3 new aluminium fittings and weldbungs to upgrade it from plastic, and to add a extra line to the carbslides.

I'm wondering in what direction the tip of the elbows are suppose to point towards (primary clutch, front etc)?

The reason I'm asking is that the new alu fittings have a slightly taller profil than the old plastic ones. And it looks like they might get in conflict with the battery if they are suppose to point towards the carbs, and they might get in conflict with the new fuelpump assembly if they are suppose to point towards the front of the sled. I don't want to do any welding to the intercooler before I know.

I have serached the turbo forum back and forward, but couldn't find an anwser. A picture would be nice

Thanks!

Congradulations, Don't forget Billet Carb T's, and Billet Carb Caps, you will also need a bypass valve, and clutching.

Let me know How I can be of assistance, I stock just about everything.

Ted.

 

[mulot30th]

Why billet t's and caps?

I don't have them on my rx1 and have no problems.

I run 11-12 psi

 

[HAMMER]

$175.00
Product #: 90RXCC
http://www.supremetoolinc.com/index.php?page=products

RX-1 Carburetor Vacuum Chamber Cover.

A must have bolt on that eliminates leaking of the vacuum chamber. Forcing air into the carburetor by means of a turbo or supercharger causes the stock plastic covers to leak. Test results have shown that the stock covers will leak at only 2 lbs of boost. Imagine how much air is passed at higher boost ratios. These covers are made from billet 6061 aluminum and will fit directly to the stock carburetor with no modifications

 

[TT]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I will not install the kit before I have all that I need.

I already have: bypass vale, super tip weights (65 gram base), custom springs for primary and secondary clutch, shockwave helix, no slip drivers, updating fittings to aluminium fittings, 90 mikuni round jet for oil restritction, mikuni hex jets 100-700 for the pitot jetting, new gaskets to drop compresion, updating air intake filter out back with a KN RU-1770 filter and MCX carb rings.

I am still looking for a wideband, boost gauge and billet carb caps is also on the wishlist.

 

[obr]

congrats TT. Let me know when you want me to come and ride your sled, and I'll let you rip it up on my Stock Phazer...LOL

You should REALLY put on those Carb Caps. Seen ALOT of leaking there.

Are you done putting on the Apex suspension and track?

 

[TT]

I finished up the the apex suspension last winter - totally different sled.

I have put in a wildchild steeringpost and mountain mod tank cowl this summer.

I plan on doing the billet carb caps as well, but at this point only thing that is light weight on the sled is my wallet in my back pocket -LOL. So a wideband will be bouhgt first. I wanted a new MCX but couldn't afford it this winter. That is why I bought a used kit.

The old rx-1 will probaly be changed out pretty soon. I am waiting to see what yamaha has in the 2009 lineup.

I rader rip it up on your old Ski-Doo Trapper if you still have it - LOL

 

[rxrider]

TT - Welcome to the club

Yes you need the billet aluminum carb caps to keep your carbs consistent and in sync. The plastic caps starts to bend under pressure and high temperatures. When running 16+ lbs, after a long pull when the engine is heat soaked, you can actually see the plastic caps starting to deform. With some caps leaking more than the others, carbs go out of sync. The alu caps will not leak and that is what's going to keep your carbs consistent. Get the WBO2 as well, that's your best aid in getting your jetting close to perfection, BTW I love my Innovate XD-16.

 

[mulot30th]

What are the symptoms of those caps leaking (beside looking at them under boost)?

 

[rxrider]

What are the symptoms of those caps leaking (beside looking at them under boost)?

What I ment was, after a long pull when engine gets really hot so does the carbs. What I found when taking a look at the plastic caps, was that they did not seal well anymore, at 90 deg out from the screws holding them in place gaps was starting to form, they were simply not flat anymore and were leaking big time.

Symptoms would be like having carbs out of sync. Performance drops because the caps are not leaking the same amount of air and carb slides goes out of sync, the cylinders get unequal amount of air and fuel, bottom line is you are not making max HP that way. Also my sled was not as snappy as it used to be before the caps started leaking. I had no problems with the plastic caps in the first season with the turbo, running it at 10 lbs most of the time. When going to 16 lbs the 2nd season I ran into problems running the plastic caps. Installing the billet aluminum ones cured that problem.