My 2011 Tunnel Protector Fix

[sx7001]

I dropped out the protectors tonight to do the 5 mill Yamaha shim fix but noticed way to much flex in the mount. The problem is the flex so the best way to fix this is to make the mounts solid. The piece you see in the pic is just a small piece I bent up to make sure this will work. Tomorrow I will get a 40 mill wide piece and rivet it to the top so it stays put. This will move the protector down like Yamaha suggests but also keep it solid. Cheap and easy.

Larry

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

This is exactly what I planned to do until I noticed that there is not enough extra thread on the tunnel stud to accommocate 1/8" bar stock let alone 5 mill. I told my dealer this and they said to hold off till they heard more from the area rep as he agreed there was only a mill or two of protruding thread and that the locking part of the nyloc nut wouldn't make contact. The rivet heads alone will use up the available thread. Are you using a different nut(without a built-in washer) or lots of loctite? I bought large rubber stoppers from TSC to stabilize the mounts but they aren't quite right either. I thought about getting the "C" mounting brackets welded into a "D" shape but that is pricey.

 

[sx7001]

Here is the final version. Just installed the right side, nuts are flush. Way more solid now.

 

[SledFreak]

Did you also add the 5mm shim?

 

[sx7001]

The plate I used is 3.5mm.

 

[sx7001]

This mod takes out all the flex in the protector mount. Studs can't hit now.

 

[SledFreak]

What size studs are you running and how many?

 

[sx7001]

102, 1.325

 

[SledFreak]

k, thanks...

On another note... How does your sled perform against the XTX now that you have miles on it.. Have you driven an XTX? How does it ride and handle between the two?

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

Looks perfect. What are you using for nuts to re-attach? As I stated earlier, the Yamaha tunnel bolts don't extend far enough on mine. In fact, my rear nuts and tunnel bolts are practically flush. I tried a piece of 3/16" stock and approx. half the nut was threaded.I was even contemplating grinding off the built-in washer off the lock nut to accommodate the shim. Did you use just regular 1/8" aluminum bar stock? IMO this is the best solution as it addresses both the clearance and protector flex issues.Do you have the XTX or the short track? The riveted tunnel mounting bolt wouldn't be different lengths would they, or, changed during the production run? How could Yamaha issue a bulletin to insert 5 mill shims with half the nut holding?

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

Sorry for some of the redundant questions as I see you've already answered most of them. Where do you get 3.5 mill plate?

 

[sx7001]

Looks perfect. What are you using for nuts to re-attach? As I stated earlier, the Yamaha tunnel bolts don't extend far enough on mine. In fact, my rear nuts and tunnel bolts are practically flush. I tried a piece of 3/16" stock and approx. half the nut was threaded.I was even contemplating grinding off the built-in washer off the lock nut to accommodate the shim. Did you use just regular 1/8" aluminum bar stock? IMO this is the best solution as it addresses both the clearance and protector flex issues.Do you have the XTX or the short track? The riveted tunnel mounting bolt wouldn't be different lengths would they, or, changed during the production run? How could Yamaha issue a bulletin to insert 5 mill shims with half the nut holding?

Nuts are flush with the bolt now. It's fine.

 

[sx7001]

Sorry for some of the redundant questions as I see you've already answered most of them. Where do you get 3.5 mill plate?

Flat stock aluminum from Canadian Tire. 1.5 inches wide.

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

Man are you ever lucky! Your nuts are up high enough and your Canadian Tire stocks stuff. My nuts are too low and I went to two CT's yesterday and all they had was 1/8"wide X 1''.LOL

 

[sx7001]

Studs are in. I will test it on Friday

Larry.