first off thanks guys for all of the emails,information and effort youu've made to help me (and others) on this subject...
I couldnt understand why some running shorter studs would hit while others running longer studs wouldnt...then it dawned on me.....the riding syle and bottoming out...blown shocks and rider weight to too soft a spring...i.e. the mono shock skid was a major part of this more than the track/stud tunnel protector formula.
also...seems like the 136 guy's have hit LESS than the 121's...might be just the feedback I've received..the fact the attak has a slightly stiffer spring might help as you read below..
in my mind I have disregarded the fact that it was easy with the old proaction skid...the way it strokes and the rarity of full stroke and seemingly keeping track tight...it seems to me that the mono strokes far more and allow's the track to balloon and deform more.
it seems like the guys who' line up and race em..dial in some weight transfer for hookup and I bet more weight transfer only causes more skid collapse and cause's this result easier and more often
in other words...it's the action of the mono skid which allows this problem to exist...this is why some guys have added as little as an 1/8" of aluminum to the stock protectors and stopped their hitting while I received an email from a guy who added 1/2" additional and another that added full inch !
so what do I think (admittingly a novice when it come's to the fourstrokes, but learning fast)..
a progressive shock rebuild and stiffer spring to keep the stroke soft early but to prevent bottoming out or complete stroke and add at least an 1/8" to the stock protectors...while keeping stud length to 1.380 even though up to 1.450 has been told to me to be okay...maybe with another 1/8" so a 1/4...
hope this helps some others who are confused like I was..
I couldnt understand why some running shorter studs would hit while others running longer studs wouldnt...then it dawned on me.....the riding syle and bottoming out...blown shocks and rider weight to too soft a spring...i.e. the mono shock skid was a major part of this more than the track/stud tunnel protector formula.
also...seems like the 136 guy's have hit LESS than the 121's...might be just the feedback I've received..the fact the attak has a slightly stiffer spring might help as you read below..
in my mind I have disregarded the fact that it was easy with the old proaction skid...the way it strokes and the rarity of full stroke and seemingly keeping track tight...it seems to me that the mono strokes far more and allow's the track to balloon and deform more.
it seems like the guys who' line up and race em..dial in some weight transfer for hookup and I bet more weight transfer only causes more skid collapse and cause's this result easier and more often
in other words...it's the action of the mono skid which allows this problem to exist...this is why some guys have added as little as an 1/8" of aluminum to the stock protectors and stopped their hitting while I received an email from a guy who added 1/2" additional and another that added full inch !
so what do I think (admittingly a novice when it come's to the fourstrokes, but learning fast)..
a progressive shock rebuild and stiffer spring to keep the stroke soft early but to prevent bottoming out or complete stroke and add at least an 1/8" to the stock protectors...while keeping stud length to 1.380 even though up to 1.450 has been told to me to be okay...maybe with another 1/8" so a 1/4...
hope this helps some others who are confused like I was..
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I dont think the amount of weight transfer has anything to do with why the studs hit.. I ride with the weight transfer set at MAX and the studs have only scrapped a few times..
The studs hit because of track balloning and the track being loose..
Tight tracks rob HP and burn up hyfax
The studs hit because of track balloning and the track being loose..
Tight tracks rob HP and burn up hyfax
yes I know a loose track causes ballooning...but even tight tracks have hit...I ran woody's megas...1.325's on my big bore sx-r with the transfer rods set at max and the track loose and never hit..it's the mono skid..
UPsledder
Extreme
I would think that the riders that have the tracks on the tight side probably have more of a chance of track rub. Also the Attaks have protection on either side of the shock which eliminates or at least reduces the track rub. I have decided to get Umlors track rub kit which should eliminate this problem. Good price also. By the way track rub has been a problem on other sleds as well.
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I put over 3000 miles on my Attak last season, running 1.40" studs (168ct) and never even showed even the slightest scratch mark anywhere. It bottomed out a ton with the OEM spring, I changed out to the next stiffer, and it helped a bunch. I did nothing with the protectors, and ran the track as loose as ratcheting would allow. I had my transfer set at two marks from the minimun setting. No issues here, funny how different the results can be?
DoktorC
TY 4 Stroke Master
welterracer said:
A properly tensioned track is faster then loose...track ballooning slows you down huge.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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They hit with the old skids too. The Mono is better at keeping the track tight on the short track. They hit because there is not enough clearance like the Cat or Polaris. The geometry in a Yamaha allows the track to loosen as it transfers or move up in the rear. Has nothing to do with one being a stronger spring or longer track. What are you trying to figure out anyway? Just put in 1.32 long studs and be on your way. If you add to the existing tunnel protectors the track will hit even harder robbing even more speed than it already does. Another thing to remember is the differant support plates around. Some are dished more and allow the head to pull into the track further making the shorter stud now stand proud higher than a shallower dish plate with a longer stud.
