Need Advice 2017 RTX LE Maintenance

[Bigblue1]

So my season has come to an end. Approximately 2,500 miles. Absolutely no issues at all save for a brief revers code attributed to the XS belt. Speaking of which NO BELT ISSUES for an entire season. Whoohooo!!! That's with a TD Max 17 tune. Do to help from, Thunder Products, Hurricane, Rockerdan, BOP, Dalton, and of course TD and others on this site over the first year it is dialed in perfect. So whats the advice needed? Well looking at the new sleds, I thought of an SRX and test drove a 2020 T Cat. Definitely, noticed new front end change was much flatter and predicable but my sled took rough stuff much better.I have four adjustable Kashima coated QSR3shocks which is my dilemma. I can't see justifying a new $17,000+ sled that is not much better than what I have. Maybe even upgrade to new front suspension set up( $500?), though I know skid has to match, but I'm game to experiment. Heck my now dialed in clutch is a combination of TP and Dalton products that i self created to work for me.

The question:

I now have 7,200 aggressive miles on my sled. No shaft issue, no chain case issue ( i bought new upper gear to change out this year for bushing problems. ) No heat exchange hose issue, No tension bolt issue. I repack bearings with new grease each year and clean clutches thoroughly after each use( going to get them properly balanced this off season).Track looks good but?

Depending on what I find when I do my yearly tear down and refresh, what do you all recommend at this point so I have another 7,200 miles of fun filled use?

 

[SAB1]

If it were me I’d keep riding it. Seems like it’s been trouble free for you. I plan on riding mine to the point where it starts giving me trouble and fear breakdowns that ruin trips. Mine has been trouble free except for the driveshaft issue but I’m sitting 2,200 miles below you. I keep hoping Yamaha addresses the drive shaft issue and upper chain case/ bushing and top gear. If they don’t I likely will look at other sleds from other manufactures in addition to the Sidewinder.

 

[DMCTurbo]

I have 8000 miles and like above I've only had to replace the driveshaft (warranty). Of course I've replaced my top gear a couple times as a precautionary measure. Sleds been great and they haven't changed enough yet for me to consider upgrading.

I say keep riding it.

 

[Fleecer]

If you haven't done so already, I'd change left hand driveshaft bearing and run her.

Looking ahead, at 9k I would perform a major service. I'd put new track and while at it, change all the other bearings to include the 2 in chaincase and left side jackshaft, and a new chain in case. I would also put new primary clutch if it lasts that long or keep a very close eye on it as it will be at the near end of its life. I would replace the midpipe/header pipe if it hasn't cracked by then and lastly, I would replace the water pump for added insurance.

Little issues like top gear every year, new bearings in tri-hub/bogie wheels, clutch rollers will wear out intermittently, but based on my experience 9k miles give or take is a midlife crisis for a tuned winder. Perform the work above and you will have a solid steed for another 9k miles.

 

[Bigblue1]

Thank you all. Appreciate the advice.

 

[Bigblue1]

If you haven't done so already, I'd change left hand driveshaft bearing and run her.

Looking ahead, at 9k I would perform a major service. I'd put new track and while at it, change all the other bearings to include the 2 in chaincase and left side jackshaft, and a new chain in case. I would also put new primary clutch if it lasts that long or keep a very close eye on it as it will be at the near end of its life. I would replace the midpipe/header pipe if it hasn't cracked by then and lastly, I would replace the water pump for added insurance.

Little issues like top gear every year, new bearings in tri-hub/bogie wheels, clutch rollers will wear out intermittently, but based on my experience 9k miles give or take is a midlife crisis for a tuned winder. Perform the work above and you will have a solid steed for another 9k miles.

Why water pump. Issues?

 

[Fleecer]

Why water pump. Issues?

My buddy had his water pump let go at 10k on a tuned Thunder. I would change it for peice of mind as I ride alone and tend to go far. Just my opinion.

 

[swampcat]

You guys do know Nick Keller rides these things 60,000 miles, you think he works on it.... OH wait, his was made in Japan.

 

[Bigblue1]

You guys do know Nick Keller rides these things 60,000 miles, you think he works on it.... OH wait, his was made in Japan.

That is just wrong. Well not really...kept my 2011 Apex as aback up. Ran it twice this winter. Still rocks! Going to raise the seat, bars and give it the Elka treatment as a reward;-).

 

[ClutchMaster]

If it were me I’d keep riding it. Seems like it’s been trouble free for you. I plan on riding mine to the point where it starts giving me trouble and fear breakdowns that ruin trips. Mine has been trouble free except for the driveshaft issue but I’m sitting 2,200 miles below you. I keep hoping Yamaha addresses the drive shaft issue and upper chain case/ bushing and top gear. If they don’t I likely will look at other sleds from other manufactures in addition to the Sidewinder.

Please don’t take offense but that’s horrible advice imo. I go over my machines with a sight check after every ride. You wound not believe all the issues I have avoided just doing this 5 min check.
Proper maintenance is essential with every piece of machinery. It helps avoid costly and troublesome breakdowns. As machinery gets older and worn it becomes necessary too do more maintenance. Once you know your machines shortcomings it becomes an easier task. My 2015 viper is much more reliable now than it was when I purchased it, that I’m confident about that.
Some of the things that I have changed for more reliability are follows..
Installed a 15 wide chain and gears,
Slightly harder upper gear bushing,
Welded the tensioner idler wheel screws,
Updated the jackshaft with a 2016 shaft and SKF bearings,
Barn of parts wedge and SKF driveshaft bearings,
Threw the Tri Hub into the woods as far as I could throw it, installed Larson’s unit,
Aced those junk Boggie wheels for billets,
Drilled and tapped entire front end for grease fittings,
Rebuild my shocks every 3k miles,
Upgraded front suspension shaft to steel,
Ran water cooling to my turbo (Hurricane kit has no water lines),
STM clutches (you should be checking your rollers after every ride),
Tear down end of every season and check for loose rivits and bolts, this is a big one! I can’t tell you how many times I have found loose bolts, especially in the suspension, on the edge of failure. Check for loose wheels while your down there and grease it.

Some will say that’s too much work and just go trade in their machine but it’s really not bad and for me it’s a sense of ownership and pride, just part of the sport. Relying on a manufacturer to provide you with a reliable machine is a thing of the past. I have a warranty you say? That’s all fine but avoiding a breakdown altogether is the best plan. I seriously wouldn’t trade my current 2015 viper for any brand new machine out there.
Don’t be the guy who has a machine with a few extra miles and is always breaking down, be the guy with pride of ownership, people will notice.
M2C

 

[SAB1]

Please don’t take offense but that’s horrible advice imo. I go over my machines with a sight check after every ride. You wound not believe all the issues I have avoided just doing this 5 min check.
Proper maintenance is essential with every piece of machinery. It helps avoid costly and troublesome breakdowns. As machinery gets older and worn it becomes necessary too do more maintenance. Once you know your machines shortcomings it becomes an easier task. My 2015 viper is much more reliable now than it was when I purchased it, that I’m confident about that.
Some of the things that I have changed for more reliability are follows..
Installed a 15 wide chain and gears,
Slightly harder upper gear bushing,
Welded the tensioner idler wheel screws,
Updated the jackshaft with a 2016 shaft and SKF bearings,
Barn of parts wedge and SKF driveshaft bearings,
Threw the Tri Hub into the woods as far as I could throw it, installed Larson’s unit,
Aced those junk Boggie wheels for billets,
Drilled and tapped entire front end for grease fittings,
Rebuild my shocks every 3k miles,
Upgraded front suspension shaft to steel,
Ran water cooling to my turbo (Hurricane kit has no water lines),
STM clutches (you should be checking your rollers after every ride),
Tear down end of every season and check for loose rivits and bolts, this is a big one! I can’t tell you how many times I have found loose bolts, especially in the suspension, on the edge of failure. Check for loose wheels while your down there and grease it.


No offense taken but I don't have a problem with what I said and it seems others above do agree. Your point is valid, the Sidewinder needs constant attention and Maintenance/replacement of parts routinely. Many improvements done BOP shaft wedge, Better belts, Tri Hub etc. Often parts get replaced prematurely because guys don't want to breakdown, self included. I think most guys know this and keep up with it. I feel lucky honestly because mine has been pretty trouble free. I dont consider my an expert at much of anything. All I will add is that I know 4 guys I ride with frequently, 3 on Winders and 1 on CAT Turbo, I'm the lowest mileage of them, and all are stock sleds and we have had no issues other than driveshafts. That tells me something there.

Some will say that’s too much work and just go trade in their machine but it’s really not bad and for me it’s a sense of ownership and pride, just part of the sport. Relying on a manufacturer to provide you with a reliable machine is a thing of the past. I have a warranty you say? That’s all fine but avoiding a breakdown altogether is the best plan. I seriously wouldn’t trade my current 2015 viper for any brand new machine out there.
Don’t be the guy who has a machine with a few extra miles and is always breaking down, be the guy with pride of ownership, people will notice.
M2C

 

[Bigblue1]

Please don’t take offense but that’s horrible advice imo. I go over my machines with a sight check after every ride. You wound not believe all the issues I have avoided just doing this 5 min check.
Proper maintenance is essential with every piece of machinery. It helps avoid costly and troublesome breakdowns. As machinery gets older and worn it becomes necessary too do more maintenance. Once you know your machines shortcomings it becomes an easier task. My 2015 viper is much more reliable now than it was when I purchased it, that I’m confident about that.
Some of the things that I have changed for more reliability are follows..
Installed a 15 wide chain and gears,
Slightly harder upper gear bushing,
Welded the tensioner idler wheel screws,
Updated the jackshaft with a 2016 shaft and SKF bearings,
Barn of parts wedge and SKF driveshaft bearings,
Threw the Tri Hub into the woods as far as I could throw it, installed Larson’s unit,
Aced those junk Boggie wheels for billets,
Drilled and tapped entire front end for grease fittings,
Rebuild my shocks every 3k miles,
Upgraded front suspension shaft to steel,
Ran water cooling to my turbo (Hurricane kit has no water lines),
STM clutches (you should be checking your rollers after every ride),
Tear down end of every season and check for loose rivits and bolts, this is a big one! I can’t tell you how many times I have found loose bolts, especially in the suspension, on the edge of failure. Check for loose wheels while your down there and grease it.

Some will say that’s too much work and just go trade in their machine but it’s really not bad and for me it’s a sense of ownership and pride, just part of the sport. Relying on a manufacturer to provide you with a reliable machine is a thing of the past. I have a warranty you say? That’s all fine but avoiding a breakdown altogether is the best plan. I seriously wouldn’t trade my current 2015 viper for any brand new machine out there.
Don’t be the guy who has a machine with a few extra miles and is always breaking down, be the guy with pride of ownership, people will notice.
M2C

No offense taken here. I always take a hard look at my sled after every trip. Probably why I have had success this far. Yes planning on doing the big maintenance items...drive system bearings gears etc. All the others I do regularly also for peace of mind. For me an extra day or two going over and replacing whats need beats being stuck out in the bush. Case in point 2016 Viper we ride with, very late to get sled properly ready, rushed some things and broke down. Overall cost because of it was nearly 1k plus the inconvenience of riding partners. Was just checking to see if i missed something which I did, so very helpful all around.

 

[1nc 2000]

The water pump has a weep hole on it.
If you notice a film on the left side of the tunnel ahead of the brake caliper area, check for coolant coming out of the weep hole.

 

[ClutchMaster]

The water pump has a weep hole on it.
If you notice a film on the left side of the tunnel ahead of the brake caliper area, check for coolant coming out of the weep hole.

I believe it’s not a leaking issue. Most spin on the shaft.

 

[1nc 2000]

I believe it’s not a leaking issue. Most spin on the shaft.

Mine leaked and broke impeller.