Hey everyone I need some help troubleshooting some of my problems. I have done extensive research on TY and the rest of the web but still can't figure out a fix to my problem. First of all I would like to share a little background. I upgraded this winter from my 1998 Vmax 700 to my dads 2006 Apex RTX. Although I knew my dad likes to ride his sleds hard, I figured for $4000 I couldn't beat the deal since it was December already. Well needless to say I have had to put in quite a bit of money already and am almost regretting buying the Apex.
I started out the year buying a set of tuner skis hoping this would be my only purchase of the year. Well unfortunately I quickly had to put a battery in her then my drive shaft bearing and speed sensor quickly went on the first ride. Next came the secondary shaft bearing and bushings for the steering. Well after I fixed all of this only five rides into the season I now have a noise coming from the skid area. I never noticed any noise until after I had the skid off to change the drive shaft bearing. When im riding at low speeds 5-25mph and going over any kind of bump (rollers or moguls) it almost sounds like the track is ratcheting. However, I have adjusted the track within specs, checked the wheels, and made sure the track wasn't rubbing on anything. No welds have snapped on the skid nor does anything look out of place. I am new to this sled though and don't have too much knowledge on what to be looking for so I could be missing something. For a clarification, I only hear the noise when going a low speeds. If I hammer down over bumps I dont hear the noise.
Lastly, my reverse has now stopped working. It engages into reverse then once it moves 1"-1' it slips out and grinds extremely bad. I don't want to do any damage to the gears or anything in the chain case. I have researched and found that it could be from the linkage. I adjusted the linkage to within specs and also tried adjusting a little out of spec to see if I could fix it. It first started two rides ago after I fixed the secondary shaft bearing. The first time it happened it just grinded a little bit but it never slipped. Now it wont even move before it slips. I thought maybe it could have been when I was replacing the secondary shaft bearing but I never went into the chain case and instead just removed the bearing right from behind the clutch. If anyone can share some advice on either of my problems I would really appreciate it.
I don't feel like calling my friend who is the mechanic at the local Yamaha dealer because quite frankly after having him replace my drive shaft bearing I realized how expensive it is to hire someone to do the work.
Sorry If I posted this in the wrong area. Feel free to move it

I started out the year buying a set of tuner skis hoping this would be my only purchase of the year. Well unfortunately I quickly had to put a battery in her then my drive shaft bearing and speed sensor quickly went on the first ride. Next came the secondary shaft bearing and bushings for the steering. Well after I fixed all of this only five rides into the season I now have a noise coming from the skid area. I never noticed any noise until after I had the skid off to change the drive shaft bearing. When im riding at low speeds 5-25mph and going over any kind of bump (rollers or moguls) it almost sounds like the track is ratcheting. However, I have adjusted the track within specs, checked the wheels, and made sure the track wasn't rubbing on anything. No welds have snapped on the skid nor does anything look out of place. I am new to this sled though and don't have too much knowledge on what to be looking for so I could be missing something. For a clarification, I only hear the noise when going a low speeds. If I hammer down over bumps I dont hear the noise.
Lastly, my reverse has now stopped working. It engages into reverse then once it moves 1"-1' it slips out and grinds extremely bad. I don't want to do any damage to the gears or anything in the chain case. I have researched and found that it could be from the linkage. I adjusted the linkage to within specs and also tried adjusting a little out of spec to see if I could fix it. It first started two rides ago after I fixed the secondary shaft bearing. The first time it happened it just grinded a little bit but it never slipped. Now it wont even move before it slips. I thought maybe it could have been when I was replacing the secondary shaft bearing but I never went into the chain case and instead just removed the bearing right from behind the clutch. If anyone can share some advice on either of my problems I would really appreciate it.

Sorry If I posted this in the wrong area. Feel free to move it


Blue Dave
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If the sound from the skid is a "clunking" sound it is probably your transfer rod which is a normal sound when going slow over bumps.
The reverse problem is usually a linkage adjustment but you said that you checked that. Another possibility is that the bolt on the lower gear has backed out which was a somewhat common issue on the older Apex models until they updated the bolt to one with more threads.
I would pull the chaincase cover off and check it out. Here is a link to a thread on this subject:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... se&start=0
The reverse problem is usually a linkage adjustment but you said that you checked that. Another possibility is that the bolt on the lower gear has backed out which was a somewhat common issue on the older Apex models until they updated the bolt to one with more threads.
I would pull the chaincase cover off and check it out. Here is a link to a thread on this subject:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... se&start=0
marq
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If that was the original battery in the sled I would say having to replace it now is pretty well normal, just bad luck of the draw for you.
Keep on top of those bearings that you replaced. Check them a couple of times a year, repack with grease as necessary and you won't have to miss any riding time in the future.
Agree on the clunking - sounds like the transfer rod, which is mostly normal. There is a thread on here somewhere about taking the rod apart and adding washers to dampen the sound.
One thing to check on the reverse issue: See if the spring is busted between the reverse gear and the shift cog. It's part #74 on the microfische. I was having the same problem and my adjustments were within spec. Found that this spring was broken and I wasn't getting the right amount of tension on the gear.
Keep on top of those bearings that you replaced. Check them a couple of times a year, repack with grease as necessary and you won't have to miss any riding time in the future.
Agree on the clunking - sounds like the transfer rod, which is mostly normal. There is a thread on here somewhere about taking the rod apart and adding washers to dampen the sound.
One thing to check on the reverse issue: See if the spring is busted between the reverse gear and the shift cog. It's part #74 on the microfische. I was having the same problem and my adjustments were within spec. Found that this spring was broken and I wasn't getting the right amount of tension on the gear.
UP Michigan rider
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Sorry if I missed it but I was curious on how many miles the Apex had on it.
Thanks
Thanks


Murse
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I get that clunking all the time, change the belt since I changed my belt ( after it blew ) it is mmmmuuuuuuccchhhh smoother. Doesn't seem to clunk as much.


Murse
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Also check and see if the timing chain is tight there is a tension bolt to do a quick adjust but just finger tight don't over do it.
Blue Dave said:If the sound from the skid is a "clunking" sound it is probably your transfer rod which is a normal sound when going slow over bumps.
It most definitely a clunking noise but it never did it before the last two rides and I dont know if it matters but my dads 06 attak doesn't make the noise. What's the best way to check and see if this is the culprit?
marq said:If that was the original battery in the sled I would say having to replace it now is pretty well normal, just bad luck of the draw for you.
Keep on top of those bearings that you replaced. Check them a couple of times a year, repack with grease as necessary and you won't have to miss any riding time in the future.
Agree on the clunking - sounds like the transfer rod, which is mostly normal. There is a thread on here somewhere about taking the rod apart and adding washers to dampen the sound.
One thing to check on the reverse issue: See if the spring is busted between the reverse gear and the shift cog. It's part #74 on the microfische. I was having the same problem and my adjustments were within spec. Found that this spring was broken and I wasn't getting the right amount of tension on the gear.
I've read a lot on those bearings and for now on I'll be repacking them ever year. The battery wasn't a big deal especially since it didn't run one time last year. I'll check the spring out to see if it is loose or damaged.
UP Michigan rider said:Sorry if I missed it but I was curious on how many miles the Apex had on it.
Thanks
5800ish
Murse: I'll try and change the belt see if it helps any


Blue Dave
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Murse said:Also check and see if the timing chain is tight there is a tension bolt to do a quick adjust but just finger tight don't over do it.
Do you mean the chaincase chain? If so the adjustment is finger tight then back off a 1/4 turn.


Blue Dave
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Murse said:I get that clunking all the time, change the belt since I changed my belt ( after it blew ) it is mmmmuuuuuuccchhhh smoother. Doesn't seem to clunk as much.
If the clunking sounds like it is coming from the rear skid when going over bumps at low speed it is not the belt. It is most likely the transfer rod.


Blue Dave
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Camarata said:Blue Dave said:If the sound from the skid is a "clunking" sound it is probably your transfer rod which is a normal sound when going slow over bumps.
It most definitely a clunking noise but it never did it before the last two rides and I dont know if it matters but my dads 06 attak doesn't make the noise. What's the best way to check and see if this is the culprit?
The easiest way to determine if the clunking sound is coming from the transfer rod would be to temporarily remove it and drive slowly over the same bumps that were causing the noise. While you have it out enjoy a doing some good wheelies which will be easy with the transfer rod removed. Some guys actually trail ride with it removed but most find the lack of ski pressure undesirable for cornering under power.
Here are some link's to other threads on this subject:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... od&start=0
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ansfer+rod

DigitalFusion
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Blue Dave said:The reverse problem is usually a linkage adjustment but you said that you checked that. Another possibility is that the bolt on the lower gear has backed out which was a somewhat common issue on the older Apex models until they updated the bolt to one with more threads.
I would pull the chaincase cover off and check it out. Here is a link to a thread on this subject:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... se&start=0
yup. just had this happen to mine. I lock-tite'd her with red this time, the blue backed right out. I ended up having to put a different bolt in and clean up the driveshaft threads with a tap.


Murse
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Blue Dave said:Murse said:Also check and see if the timing chain is tight there is a tension bolt to do a quick adjust but just finger tight don't over do it.
Do you mean the chaincase chain? If so the adjustment is finger tight then back off a 1/4 turn.
That's it sorry and thanks for the correction.
DigitalFusion said:Blue Dave said:The reverse problem is usually a linkage adjustment but you said that you checked that. Another possibility is that the bolt on the lower gear has backed out which was a somewhat common issue on the older Apex models until they updated the bolt to one with more threads.
I would pull the chaincase cover off and check it out. Here is a link to a thread on this subject:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... se&start=0
I just don't get how this would happen. My mechanic (Yamaha mechanic) just had the chain case apart when replacing the drive shaft bearing. You would think that he would have tightened everything down properly. I'm going to go pull the transfer rod off now and mess with the linkage a little more. I'll keep you guys posted when I figure more out.
yup. just had this happen to mine. I lock-tite'd her with red this time, the blue backed right out. I ended up having to put a different bolt in and clean up the driveshaft threads with a tap.
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