Doing brive bearing

[gytrapex]

Going to Do drive bearing on my 06 apex gt how hard is it I know I have to pull the secondary clutch do I have to drop the skid out if so how hard is it do get the drive shaft out and what the best seal bearing to use if it's oem what the part number for them I looked online could not fined it and is when u put the secondary clutch back on what do u guys use to make sure the belt is straight thank you for the help guy

 

[Elton Buss]

Very easy job.Remove both plastic panels on left side of sled. I would loosen axel for the track and loosen track adjusters keep track of the number of turns so you can put them back to where they were. You should not need to remove the clutch if you do just keep all of the spacers in order. Remove bolt that holds sensor gear on then the three nuts that hold bearing retainer and speed sensor. You can look under tunnel at the drive shaft the collar on the bearing as two torx set screws loosen both and pop the bearing out with apry bar. Save the set screws from the bearing you will need them again. The new bearing does not come with them.The bearing number is 8jc-93306-20589-00 yamaha number. To reinstall push the bearing on the drive shaft you might have to pry on the shaft from under the sled . Reinstall the retainer ring on the bearing and the speed sensor on the outside with the three nuts torque them down, then install the set screws in the bearing collar and tighten them. Install the sensor gear and bolt, tighten the track back up to where it was,tighten axel . The job take about 15 min.

 

[gytrapex]

thank you so much this will help a lot now what about the other drive bearing

Very easy job.Remove both plastic panels on left side of sled. I would loosen axel for the track and loosen track adjusters keep track of the number of turns so you can put them back to where they were. You should not need to remove the clutch if you do just keep all of the spacers in order. Remove bolt that holds sensor gear on then the three nuts that hold bearing retainer and speed sensor. You can look under tunnel at the drive shaft the collar on the bearing as two torx set screws loosen both and pop the bearing out with apry bar. Save the set screws from the bearing you will need them again. The new bearing does not come with them.The bearing number is 8jc-93306-20589-00 yamaha number. To reinstall push the bearing on the drive shaft you might have to pry on the shaft from under the sled . Reinstall the retainer ring on the bearing and the speed sensor on the outside with the three nuts torque them down, then install the set screws in the bearing collar and tighten them. Install the sensor gear and bolt, tighten the track back up to where it was,tighten axel . The job take about 15 min.[/QUOTE

 

[gytrapex]

Are those bearing sealed or no

Very easy job.Remove both plastic panels on left side of sled. I would loosen axel for the track and loosen track adjusters keep track of the number of turns so you can put them back to where they were. You should not need to remove the clutch if you do just keep all of the spacers in order. Remove bolt that holds sensor gear on then the three nuts that hold bearing retainer and speed sensor. You can look under tunnel at the drive shaft the collar on the bearing as two torx set screws loosen both and pop the bearing out with apry bar. Save the set screws from the bearing you will need them again. The new bearing does not come with them.The bearing number is 8jc-93306-20589-00 yamaha number. To reinstall push the bearing on the drive shaft you might have to pry on the shaft from under the sled . Reinstall the retainer ring on the bearing and the speed sensor on the outside with the three nuts torque them down, then install the set screws in the bearing collar and tighten them. Install the sensor gear and bolt, tighten the track back up to where it was,tighten axel . The job take about 15 min.

 

[Elton Buss]

The jackshaft bearing i have never changed . I take the shield out every year and clean it and regrease. The chaincase bearings are more involved. I believe they are only sealed to the outside of the chaincase.

 

[big guy]

Use extra care as to not strip them little set screws. Use quality torx socket.

 

[YammyRX1]

The bearings in the chaincase last the longest normally and if you are going to do them you might as well do all 4. Project better suited for off-season if it can wait.

 

[gytrapex]

It can wait but the left drive bearing i feel a thumping

The bearings in the chaincase last the longest normally and if you are going to do them you might as well do all 4. Project better suited for off-season if it can wait.

 

[gitrdun]

The driveshaft(speedo) bearing behind the secondary is the one that should get yearly attention because it is in a position to get the most water in it. The jackshaft bearing higher up behind the secondary is second on the list but wouldn't hurt to grease it while you are doing the one below. You asked if the bearings are sealed. If they are the factory bearings or even if they were changed but with a NSK bearing, the outside seal can be carefully removed with a dental pick or similar tool and you can blow out the old grease (and water) and put new grease in. If you change that lower bearing by the speedo, you access the set screws from underneath inside the tunnel, I believe it is a T20 torx, give the screwdriver a few

taps with a hammer to help before you turn the set screws out. When you put the new bearing in, it likely doesn't come with set screws so keep the old ones if they are in good shape. Install torque for those set screws is 6.5 ft. lb.. Also when you are taking the secondary off to get at these bearings, I slip everything onto a paint stirrer to keep all my washers in order and facing in the right direction. If you put it back on in order, you shouldn't have to adjust the belt.
If your track is set with some normal slack, you shouldn't have to loosen it anymore to get that speedo bearing out and in.

 

[gytrapex]

Thank you so much but if I want to make sure my belt is straight what do I use to make sure it is

The driveshaft(speedo) bearing behind the secondary is the one that should get yearly attention because it is in a position to get the most water in it. The jackshaft bearing higher up behind the secondary is second on the list but wouldn't hurt to grease it while you are doing the one below. You asked if the bearings are sealed. If they are the factory bearings or even if they were changed but with a NSK bearing, the outside seal can be carefully removed with a dental pick or similar tool and you can blow out the old grease (and water) and put new grease in. If you change that lower bearing by the speedo, you access the set screws from underneath inside the tunnel, I believe it is a T20 torx, give the screwdriver a few View attachment 106818 taps with a hammer to help before you turn the set screws out. When you put the new bearing in, it likely doesn't come with set screws so keep the old ones if they are in good shape. Install torque for those set screws is 6.5 ft. lb.. Also when you are taking the secondary off to get at these bearings, I slip everything onto a paint stirrer to keep all my washers in order and facing in the right direction. If you put it back on in order, you shouldn't have to adjust the belt.
If your track is set with some normal slack, you shouldn't have to loosen it anymore to get that speedo bearing out and in.

 

[gitrdun]

Sorry, I only know about the washers that determine where it sits in the secondary, but if you are referring to sheave offset adjustment which is the relation between the primary and the secondary, there is a sheave guage for that and related info on p. 43 of the 2003-2007 Apex service manual. Also, there is secondary sheave freeplay which you check with a feeler guage and info on that on p.44.

 

[YammyRX1]

I just hold a straight edge across the back of the primary and use vernier calipers to measure the offset on the secondary.