NEED HELP ASAP-03 ELECTRICAL

[Indy]

I was finishing off sled for a trip, supposed to leave in an hour. Started her up to load and she started an ran fine. I noticed I had no brake lights. Checked everything I could think of including brake switch, both leads were hot. Removed seat to see if hot at tail lights, looked ok. Now it wont even click or turn over or anything. But my led's work, there is power at the battery and to the red jumper lead also, but I cant find anything hot from there. WTF is wrong? Please advise.

 

[westbaycustoms]

dont know if this will help but, i hade my tool box and trunk out of the nose of the sled, and the wires going to the regulator rectifire had rubbed just about threw on the frame rail, u have to pull the three philips screws out that holds the box in , again its in front of the air box, hope this may help

 

[Indy]

thanks, I will look there.

 

[buddah]

Ignition circuit fuse.........that's exactly how mine acted when it blew one .....fuse box on right side above brake..........

 

[Indy]

Ignition circuit fuse.........that's exactly how mine acted when it blew one .....fuse box on right side above brake..........

Buddah, I've checked those like 5 times. I think it is the starter relay, but of course no one in within 100 miles has one in stock. Buddah, if you want to call me you can @ 765-744-6829.

Dan

 

[LazyBastard]

You do NOT need to use an exact starter relay. Any old starter relay will work fine, even one ripped off a 70's outboard motor. Check the relay before committing to it though. Do this with a circuit tester. Make sure that the motor side of the relay gets power when you turn the key. If no, make sure that the solenoid gets power from the key.

 

[buddah]

Buddah, I've checked those like 5 times.......

Excuse me for being Mr. Obvious, but did you try replacing the fuse with the spare? Sometimes it's hard to tell with visual............

 

[Indy]

You do NOT need to use an exact starter relay. Any old starter relay will work fine, even one ripped off a 70's outboard motor. Check the relay before committing to it though. Do this with a circuit tester. Make sure that the motor side of the relay gets power when you turn the key. If no, make sure that the solenoid gets power from the key.

LB, I have power only to the nose end. Have no power on engine side while holding key. I am going back out to garage to jump across to see if it will start. I just ordered a new one anyway.

 

[MrSled]

Try taking the relays off , bring in the house to warm them up and try again.

 

[Indy]

Try taking the relays off , bring in the house to warm them up and try again.

it is in my warm garage. you say relays, like there are more than the starter relay, which is just a solenoid, right?

 

[MrSled]

There are a couple relays, I think 4 that are near the left side foot hold.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ight=relay

 

[Indy]

I made a jumper with a starter button, worked fine all weekend. I still had to run new wires under the tank and seat to the tail lights. I ran directly to battery and put in a toggle switch. The power seems weak on circuit tester, I need to get a sweep meter to check the voltage. I have followed the wires all the way to the brake switch and back down, but I loose them in the enclosed wire harness from there. Any ideas on the lights?

 

[hibshman25]

I've got an extra harness, and if i recall the starter relay is still there. If interested I can check.

 

[Len Todd]

Welll assume your tailight is O.K. becaus the extra wires lit them. Is this correct?

By the way: One does not use a "sweep-meter" to measure Volts DC. You can use a Multi-Meter or Volt-Ohm Meter. Saw one for $7.00 in Menards a few weeks ago. I am assuming this is what you mean.

With the engine running, what voltage do you have at the battery terminals or Jumper wire terminals?

You may want to take out each of the fuses and check for continuity (zero Ohms) across each fuse. (Same meter, different setting) If you get infinity (a lot of Ohms) you have a bad fuse. Visual checks can sometimes be worthless.

If you put in new wires to the taillight from the battery, did you add a fuse at the battery? If not, you could burn the thing down.

Also, if you have a bypass on the Starter Solinoild flopping' around in there, could that possibly short out and again burn the thing to the ground.

If you have > 12.8 VDC at the battery, when the sled is running, then the sled is charging. Then, remove the fuse in the affected circuit and look for voltage on the circuit on one side of the fuse block. If you have power there and the fuse to be reinstalled is good, then your problem is down-stream of the fuse.

You said things looked O.K. at the tail light. Did that mean that it looked good or did that mean that you checked for voltage and found voltage. You probably did not find voltage, which casued you to add new wires. Is this correct?

Could it be possible that the origonal wires to the tail light got pinched between the seat and tunnel and shorted or mice chewed on them? If YES, that still brings you back to the fuse, if you have power to the imput of the fuse.

When you checked the fuses, did you have to replace any?

 

[Indy]

Welll assume your tailight is O.K. becaus the extra wires lit them. Is this correct?

By the way: One does not use a "sweep-meter" to measure Volts DC. You can use a Multi-Meter or Volt-Ohm Meter. Saw one for $7.00 in Menards a few weeks ago. I am assuming this is what you mean.

With the engine running, what voltage do you have at the battery terminals or Jumper wire terminals?

You may want to take out each of the fuses and check for continuity (zero Ohms) across each fuse. (Same meter, different setting) If you get infinity (a lot of Ohms) you have a bad fuse. Visual checks can sometimes be worthless.

If you put in new wires to the taillight from the battery, did you add a fuse at the battery? If not, you could burn the thing down.

Also, if you have a bypass on the Starter Solinoild flopping' around in there, could that possibly short out and again burn the thing to the ground.

If you have > 12.8 VDC at the battery, when the sled is running, then the sled is charging. Then, remove the fuse in the affected circuit and look for voltage on the circuit on one side of the fuse block. If you have power there and the fuse to be reinstalled is good, then your problem is down-stream of the fuse.

You said things looked O.K. at the tail light. Did that mean that it looked good or did that mean that you checked for voltage and found voltage. You probably did not find voltage, which casued you to add new wires. Is this correct?

Could it be possible that the origonal wires to the tail light got pinched between the seat and tunnel and shorted or mice chewed on them? If YES, that still brings you back to the fuse, if you have power to the imput of the fuse.

When you checked the fuses, did you have to replace any?

I will answer your questions, but first you must know that I know nothing about an OHMs tester, I own a new one (digital), but don't know how to use it.

Now when you first start the sled, the tail lights would start to light, but not very bright and only a millisecond, once the head lights powerd up, the tail lights were gone. but you could still get a current from the light sockets with a circuit tester. Its like the voltage is weak. This has never happened before. I cut the OEM wire to the lights under the seat, and ran new wires to the hot and ground w/fuse and a toggle. The toggle and starter button (going out now to put on new sylenoid) were/are both fused and completely taped over, nothing exposed. I have removed every fuse and checked. Even switched fuses with others and no difference. I just ordered a new regulator from laneo here on the site. the only extras that I have installed that use power are a heated shield, some LED's and an loud #*$&@ horn. They all still work fine.

If you can tell me how to perform the test using the digital meter I just purchased that would help me a lot. Check your PM's.

It's now 3:26 am eastern, Just came in from garage. New starter relay didn't work. Back to the starter button. Faulty relay?