outfront
Newbie
out running with some big boys today, haven't got enough on top end.
running stock clutching except for dolton weights and 2338 gearing, 14 inch track, hooks up good in the bottom, good mid-range but the creep by me on top. any ideas out there for me. 2 sleds i was racing were an 05 and 06 mach z'.[/b]
running stock clutching except for dolton weights and 2338 gearing, 14 inch track, hooks up good in the bottom, good mid-range but the creep by me on top. any ideas out there for me. 2 sleds i was racing were an 05 and 06 mach z'.[/b]
outfront
Newbie
running 07apexgt
bashley
Expert
polarisconvert
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Messages
- 576
- Location
- Corunna, MI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 Yamaha RX1
Ted Jennety Clutching, jetting, air box mod.
Arctic Cat Z1 Turbo 128" Rear Suspension
128" Hacksaw 1" track.
Heated seat
N02 should do the job.
tttario
Expert
outfront said:
Get Allen Ulmer to Overdrive your clutches.
how many studs you running? RPM @ WOT?
Add your location as per site rules too.
SpecRTX
Expert
I know some members don't like Hauck's speed sheave, but I have an Ulmer stage II clutch kit with windage plates and the overdrive sheave. I have 7 grams in the heel, zero in the center and one in the tip. I also switched to the white yamaha secondary spring. My gearing is 23/40 and I weigh 230 lbs. My sled comes out at 11,000 then shifts and drops to 10,500 and pulls back up to 10,800-10,900. I haven't had a chance to do a full speed run yet, but it feels like it has more (on top) than when I had identical gearing without the overdrive sheave. Last year I ran about 128mph on the DM. With the white secondary spring, it also has very strong back shift.
YAM182
Expert
Good running newer mach Z sleds should be faster on top end.
If you are anywhere close these sleds you are doing good.
There are some slower Machs out there.
I did some radar runs and got a high of 124.4 mph with a Mach Z running a 125.2.Guy took his Mach Z home quick.
I had the stock track,Ulmer clutching,windage plates etc.
Yes you could
and say goodbye.
Windage plates will help a bit.
Lower the sled.
Shorten front strap.
Mabey a small wheel kit on the front rail bend.
Low windshield unless temps are too cold.
Duck down low as you can and put your chin as close to the gas cap as you can for at least 1-almost 2 more mph.Knees and elbows in tight.
Least amount of gas in the tank as possible.
Stock worn carbides on the skis help.
Run the other guys on ice or very hard pack.The less snow the better.
Try different belts that are broken in.1 may be faster.
If you are anywhere close these sleds you are doing good.
There are some slower Machs out there.
I did some radar runs and got a high of 124.4 mph with a Mach Z running a 125.2.Guy took his Mach Z home quick.
I had the stock track,Ulmer clutching,windage plates etc.
Yes you could
and say goodbye. Windage plates will help a bit.
Lower the sled.
Shorten front strap.
Mabey a small wheel kit on the front rail bend.
Low windshield unless temps are too cold.
Duck down low as you can and put your chin as close to the gas cap as you can for at least 1-almost 2 more mph.Knees and elbows in tight.
Least amount of gas in the tank as possible.
Stock worn carbides on the skis help.
Run the other guys on ice or very hard pack.The less snow the better.
Try different belts that are broken in.1 may be faster.
1xr
Expert
Try putting the stock weights back in. I've used the dalton ones and I found that I have more top with the stock ones.
outfront
Newbie
racing on ice,
front end is lowered
144 chisels
hauck air box lid
fuel accelerator--set at stock
shifting out at 10500, 10600
dalton weights DPYR-62, 2 grams at base, 4 grams at tip
--have hauck sheave, not yet installed.
thanks for the input guys.
[/i][/b]
front end is lowered
144 chisels
hauck air box lid
fuel accelerator--set at stock
shifting out at 10500, 10600
dalton weights DPYR-62, 2 grams at base, 4 grams at tip
--have hauck sheave, not yet installed.
thanks for the input guys.
[/i][/b]Charged RTX
Expert
Don't install the sheave.
Advance the ignition timing 4-5 degrees. Then run it at around 10,900. You probably will be close to 10,900 without doing any clutching. They run strong on top like this.
Advance the ignition timing 4-5 degrees. Then run it at around 10,900. You probably will be close to 10,900 without doing any clutching. They run strong on top like this.
Charged RTX said:
x2
if youre mostly concerned with racing...stock weights are hard to beat on top..
motohd66
Pro
yep, they absolutely love timing! i had the pc111 and the ignition box from ulmer racing and it completely changed the sled, much harder pull on bottom, alot more pull through mid range, and more pull on top also, check out the post by rtxdude, he tested all that stuff 1 by 1 with a gps and gave us all the speeds.
Charged RTX
Expert
In case someone does not want to buy a PC111. We tested a Hauck timing key on a timing wheel this year. There "3 degree key" is only about 1.5 degrees. If you take a total of exactly 1 mm out of the key this gives you exactly 5 degrees advance. Not as good as the ignition moudule but a hell of a lot cheaper!
I dont know if Id want to run 5 degrees of timing advance throughout the entire band!
Charged RTX
Expert
Some of the PC maps are around 4 through the midrange and up to 9 degrees at 11,000.
