Phantom
Expert
I have an 05 Rage with 13,000 miles on the clock. It needs a track and some other work including ANOTHER W Arm (this will be the SECOND time I replaced it.)
I love the sled and the suspension is good as I have had the shocks all re-valved and replaced the original steel bodied rear skid shock with an Ohlins.
I have also installed a Nytro seat and bar risers so the sled has Nytro ergos.
Here is the decision I need to make...
Do I bite the bullet and replace the track and W Arm or quit while I am ahead and part out the sled before I dump another $800-$1000 into it?
What is an RS engine worth? Shocks? Seat?
I love the sled and the suspension is good as I have had the shocks all re-valved and replaced the original steel bodied rear skid shock with an Ohlins.
I have also installed a Nytro seat and bar risers so the sled has Nytro ergos.
Here is the decision I need to make...
Do I bite the bullet and replace the track and W Arm or quit while I am ahead and part out the sled before I dump another $800-$1000 into it?
What is an RS engine worth? Shocks? Seat?
woolyviper
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- 2009 Yamaha Phazer RTX
i'd put the track and w-arm on it - you might have $650 in it when you're done and still has lots of life - especially with the improvements.
snoway
Lifetime Member
the track gave you 13,000 miles....thats awesome! try tracksusa.
the w-arm on the yammies?,..well, you might as well think of them as a wear item.
There are alot of yammie owners that have reinforced and welded there w- arms to hold up better than stock . Mine has held up very well. You can find linkds on TY that explain the best way to do it. If you don;t do it your self , a weld shop can probably fix for less than new cost.
That being said, I think you can find alot of handy "bargain hunters" that are interested in your sled and are very willing to put the time into buying your sled as is.
I think you could easily get $2300.00 or more as is.
the w-arm on the yammies?,..well, you might as well think of them as a wear item.
There are alot of yammie owners that have reinforced and welded there w- arms to hold up better than stock . Mine has held up very well. You can find linkds on TY that explain the best way to do it. If you don;t do it your self , a weld shop can probably fix for less than new cost.
That being said, I think you can find alot of handy "bargain hunters" that are interested in your sled and are very willing to put the time into buying your sled as is.
I think you could easily get $2300.00 or more as is.
Gone Blue
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I would put a new track and W arm on it and ride it.....G.B.
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Gone Blue said:I would put a new track and W arm on it and ride it.....G.B.
What he ^^^^^ said....no question. There's nothing about the RS motors that says it's only got another 5000 or whatever miles on it. I know you and Lynn RIDE up there.
UNLESS you have $$$ burning a hole in your pocket. Nothing like riding new iron!
Good luck whatever way you go!
hossZ28
Still has a yamaha powerplant!
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- 2014 Arctic Cat XF 7000 LTD
You havent even got the motor broken in yet that is good two stroke mileage but I would think the sled is mgood for another 25000 lets find out lol
Phantom
Expert
Thanks for the input guys...
Heat Exchanger got welded today... I didn't mention the punctured heat exchanger did I?
The culprit
Sled will get a new ripsaw NO STUDS!
I will make a couple plates to reinforce the W-arm and weld them on.
One thing everyone may find interesting... ALL of the bearings that I popped the seals out of and greased at the end of every season are STILL GOOD with 13,000 miles. The only bad bearings in the skid are in the rear wheels. Speedo side driveshaft bearing is fine but the jackshaft bearings are a bit tight so I may just try to wake them up with a cleaning and repack just to prove a point. Chaincase side driveshaft bearing may get the same.
I will also replace the chain and the reverse idler the chain rides on. The chain was replaced at 6,000 miles because the dealer did the jackshaft recall and neglected to refill the chaincase... 600 miles later the chain was toast and I would guess the gears also but I think the dealer hosed me and left in the old reverse idler.
One reason I would NEVER take my sleds to a dealer for service.
Heat Exchanger got welded today... I didn't mention the punctured heat exchanger did I?
The culprit
Sled will get a new ripsaw NO STUDS!
I will make a couple plates to reinforce the W-arm and weld them on.
One thing everyone may find interesting... ALL of the bearings that I popped the seals out of and greased at the end of every season are STILL GOOD with 13,000 miles. The only bad bearings in the skid are in the rear wheels. Speedo side driveshaft bearing is fine but the jackshaft bearings are a bit tight so I may just try to wake them up with a cleaning and repack just to prove a point. Chaincase side driveshaft bearing may get the same.
I will also replace the chain and the reverse idler the chain rides on. The chain was replaced at 6,000 miles because the dealer did the jackshaft recall and neglected to refill the chaincase... 600 miles later the chain was toast and I would guess the gears also but I think the dealer hosed me and left in the old reverse idler.
One reason I would NEVER take my sleds to a dealer for service.
jat59
Lifetime Member
I am not a "stud" person myself, but if you liked them on the sled, maybe think about the "prestudded" track. I dont know much about them, but I would think a person wouldnt have problems with those like they would from the conventional studs? (just my pennies worth)
hossZ28
Still has a yamaha powerplant!
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Not to knock the track mfgs but I have heard a lot of complaints on this site about these pre studded imbedded carbibe point tracks having a short life span due to delamination of the rubber chords within the molding process of the track itself If you got 13000 miles I would order a new ripsaw fully clipped with pre molded stud holes buy quality studs the correct length with really good backers
Phantom
Expert
Was thinking of an Ice Ripper but decided the 136 would be enough with a standard Ripsaw. I never rode the sled before I studded it so I have no idea what to expect. There is usually not a lot of ice on Tug Hill so I think I will be loving to be able to kick the #*$&@ out when I want/need.
I did order fully clipped so hyfax wear should be better as well as being able to run the track a bit tighter to prevent ratcheting.
Heat exchanger got welded yesterday... friend of mine who did it usually works on stuff like this so I guess I'll be OK
I did order fully clipped so hyfax wear should be better as well as being able to run the track a bit tighter to prevent ratcheting.
Heat exchanger got welded yesterday... friend of mine who did it usually works on stuff like this so I guess I'll be OK
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hossZ28
Still has a yamaha powerplant!
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Did you consider a 1 1/2 lug ripsaw?
RSVECTORFREAK
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snoway said:the track gave you 13,000 miles....thats awesome! try tracksusa.
the w-arm on the yammies?,..well, you might as well think of them as a wear item.
There are alot of yammie owners that have reinforced and welded there w- arms to hold up better than stock . Mine has held up very well. You can find linkds on TY that explain the best way to do it. If you don;t do it your self , a weld shop can probably fix for less than new cost.
That being said, I think you can find alot of handy "bargain hunters" that are interested in your sled and are very willing to put the time into buying your sled as is.
I think you could easily get $2300.00 or more as is.
HAHA isn't that the truth!!
Nytro-R6
Veteran
I was as stud person but I switched to a 136"x 1.5" camoplast intense track and wont ever go back!! My buddy has the 136"x 1.5" ripsaw and he wishes he would have went with the intense. My uncle also as an SRX with the Ice Ripper track - He hates it! All it does is spin and leave marks in the ice/cement/trail whatever your riding on... and most of the carbide tips are ground down... Just my $.02 - Good luck with the sled (i hope mine last 13,000+)
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have the Ice Claw on my SXR with about 5000 miles on it and it looks great. Little studs aren't worn down at all. Of course some are missing or worn but for the most part they look great.
I ride in Tug Hill with my Attak and never had any issues with a 136 Ripsaw. I did recently replace with a Ice Ripper. It gets a little hairy going up some hills in CNY!!! My original track had 10,700 miles and looked good.
The W arm is unfortunatly a wear item on Yamaha's. Mine went 10,700 miles. I upgraded to the 08 one which is significantly stronger. I don't know what suspension a 05 Rage has so that may not help you...
I ride in Tug Hill with my Attak and never had any issues with a 136 Ripsaw. I did recently replace with a Ice Ripper. It gets a little hairy going up some hills in CNY!!! My original track had 10,700 miles and looked good.
The W arm is unfortunatly a wear item on Yamaha's. Mine went 10,700 miles. I upgraded to the 08 one which is significantly stronger. I don't know what suspension a 05 Rage has so that may not help you...
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