Never enough wheels !!

[SledFreak]

You want the 135mm DOO wheels off the old REV, not the 141.

I thought I read on here somewhere that 141s were the hot setup?

Where was that?

 

[mach9]

hmmmmm...what kinda exhaust parts ya waiting for?

For the best I hope.

 

[mach9]

how hard is it to pull the skid like that?

I'm going to find out...
But, I also know what wrench size to use if I need to pull some wheels off.

 

[mach9]

do you have a post on that job? looks like 2 wheel kits in front, looks like the rear add ons have some fabrication. I need to do this exact thing, any info on thta rear set up would be great

Ok, here is the deal.
Yamaha marginal snow, small wheels up front on the curve.
135mm Doo wheels almost everywhere else.
Inner wheel mod by the shock was done last year and is now a kit offered by Yamaha.
Port Yamaha is doing a cheaper version than OEM.

But the rear shaft inner set is a slight and easy fab.
Using 130mm wheel and shaft Kimpex kit from Royal Distributing
2010 witner catalog Page 153 P/N 04-116-40
Cost $70 shaft, wheels, bolts.

You need to machine off a few mm from each end of the shaft to get it to fit down in between the XTX steel rear brackets.
Then I took the spacer left over from the 4th wheel kit install.
Cut 2pcs for each outside space, made them something like 41mm each.
Put the assy. down in the pocket.
Right down in where the bend on the rail is.
Make sure you leave room for the outside spacers.
Drill too low and you hit/ride on the rail bead. Drill too high and lose out on wheel depth.
The area to drill the holes on the steel bracket is not huge.
You don't want to be putting holes in the bracket anywhere too close to the holes that are lazer cut in there already.
I don't feel there is room in there for Doo 135mm wheels.
Yamaha 130mm fit perfect in there.
So measure and re-measure before you drill.
Also.
I bought some alum. flat bar 1/4" thick.
It slides nicely into the gap of the rear brackets. (after some cutting)
This helps hold everything together as you are adding a new shaft.
I also did put another bolt through the new bracket assy. which again holds everything tight.
Note, when putting everything back together.
You don't want anything binding.
Shafts and spacers should fit nice but not too tight. Holes for new bolts should be large enough to allow for some floating around.
In other words if you need to pound or pry anything into place before you crank on the bolts, you will be twisting your rails out of shape.

 

[SledFreak]

How much do I have to machine off to center the DOO wheels like originals Yamaha's using the Yamaha mounts? There is a difference of 3mm between is the 2 bearings. Yamaha is 12mm and the DOO is 15mm. So to keep it centered between the lugs and to where it is currently sitting stock, do I machine 1.5mm, 2mm or 3mm? I'm thinking 1.5mm, but it still won't fit flush on the shaft, correct?

Aslo did you machine the mounts for the outside wheels or just the inside ones?

 

[apltx08]

SledFreak,

Get a idler using a 6205...or you'll have to shim OUT from rail 1.5mm when using 6005 bearing.

1.5mm if your going from a 12 to 15mm bearing, some DOO mounts are already for a 15mm or 12mm bearing, I'm still at work but when I get home I can link you to ROYAL or give them a call...

 

[SledFreak]

SledFreak,

Get a idler using a 6205...or you'll have to shim OUT from rail 1.5mm when using 6005 bearing.

1.5mm if your going from a 12 to 15mm bearing, some DOO mounts are already for a 15mm or 12mm bearing, I'm still at work but when I get home I can link you to ROYAL or give them a call...

I don't plan on removing the bearings, since they are new with the DOO wheels. I want to machine the mounts to make them work. The 6205 bearing is better then the 6005. Thanks...

 

[apltx08]

1.5mm on YAM mounts and you'll be dead on centre!

 

[Easy Rider]

You can also use the Yammy aftermarket wheels that are standard on the 2010 models that bolt right on with no mods. The Yammy mounting brackets work real slick too. I converted all my wheels, added 2 to the centre along with mounting brackets and the 2010 rear idler wheels at the back for right around $250 Canadian. Best part was everything was a straight bolt on, no machining! Over 1000 miles and the hyfax looks brand new....

 

[mach9]

update

Some are asking what I did on the front inner mounts.

I took a full 3mm off the inside alum. mounts.
I know it sounds like too much, I too thought it might be tight, but no worries.
This did put the wheels 1.5mm closer to the one side of the inner lugs.
It runs great and my track is not shifting around side to side as much this year.

Why did I do it this way?
I wanted the entire inner surface of the DOO bering to have an axle.
(if you can understand that)
So I took 3.0mm material off the inside shoulder of the alum. blocks, not from the outside where it touches the rails.
It was not easy to machine down in there, it took a little time but I managed.
And when you crank up the torque wrench on that assy. You don't need to worry about much.

I just got back from a 500km ride on the weekend.
We did at least 100km on roads that were marginal or worse.
My sliders are looking really good this year.
Most of the wear I see is near the back by the tip up. (XTX)
So, I'll tighten up my track a bit more for next time out.

Cheers

 

[sgilbert]

Re: update

Some are asking what I did on the front inner mounts.

I took a full 3mm off the inside alum. mounts.
I know it sounds like too much, I too thought it might be tight, but no worries.
This did put the wheels 1.5mm closer to the one side of the inner lugs.
It runs great and my track is not shifting around side to side as much this year.

Why did I do it this way?
I wanted the entire inner surface of the DOO bering to have an axle.
(if you can understand that)
So I took 3.0mm material off the inside shoulder of the alum. blocks, not from the outside where it touches the rails.
It was not easy to machine down in there, it took a little time but I managed.
And when you crank up the torque wrench on that assy. You don't need to worry about much.

I just got back from a 500km ride on the weekend.
We did at least 100km on roads that were marginal or worse.
My sliders are looking really good this year.
Most of the wear I see is near the back by the tip up. (XTX)
So, I'll tighten up my track a bit more for next time out.

Cheers

I pretty much copied your six extra wheels. 500 mi no wear whatsoever

 

[SledFreak]

1.5mm on YAM mounts and you'll be dead on centre!

So you took it off where it mounts to rail... Do you think the bearing hangs over to much off the shaft?

 

[apltx08]

1.5mm on YAM mounts and you'll be dead on centre!

So you took it off where it mounts to rail... Do you think the bearing hangs over to much off the shaft?

I ran my '05 RX1 12.000kms and '08 APEX 10.000kms that way without any issues...

 

[SledFreak]

For the guys that machined the holders where the bearing/wheels sits on, did you just square them off or did you make sure there was still chamfer to the holders? Thanks...

 

[Superman]

marginal snow wheel kits from Yamaha. 2 up front and 2 just aft of center. So far so good. These are the 2 bolt wheels which I like.