10000ft
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I just purchased and installed a CPR turbo on 2003 RX1. Took it out one time so far at high elevation ( 9,000-11,000ft) and with only 5.5-6.5 boosts. I have a few questions?
Do most of you run after market hoods with the turbo? It seems hard to get rid of the heat, already melted bottom end of my K &N filter. I have a Diamond S hood on a, different sled and it seems to work well.
Any pointers on primary weights on the clutch and secondary helix and spring.
What kind of operating temperature does the engine usually run? I have not installed my temp gauge. What temp does the light come on at on the RX1.
Thanks for the help !!!!!
Do most of you run after market hoods with the turbo? It seems hard to get rid of the heat, already melted bottom end of my K &N filter. I have a Diamond S hood on a, different sled and it seems to work well.
Any pointers on primary weights on the clutch and secondary helix and spring.
What kind of operating temperature does the engine usually run? I have not installed my temp gauge. What temp does the light come on at on the RX1.
Thanks for the help !!!!!

KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Why only 6.5 lbs. Jeff has them pre set at 7.5? I'm using the stock hood trimed to clear the filter. In the mountains you may not have the ground speed to keep air moving under the hood. If that is the case, I would look into adding some more venting to the hood. Another trick is to wrap some thin cardboard between the filter and the turbo to prevent the filter from melting. The heat comes after shutting down the engine, the heat soak develops from the ex. side to the intake. Another option is to use a short piece of steel tubing between the filter and turbo. Use a piece of turbo hose to clamp onto the turbo and the short isolator tube. Its the only minor flaw I see in the system. Remember to let turbo cool for two minutes before shuting engine down. Good Luck, Mike Knapp
Climbmax
Expert
Front mounts do create a ton of heat. Be prepared to add as much venting as possible......around turbo, behind windshield, in front of knees on backside of hood and I even vented my fuel tank cover.
As Knapp also said we do not create the ground speed all the time so we will not have the airflow to keep it cool.........run a diamond S hood and you should solve some of it. I also took out the headlight and screened in the holes to keep more cold air going to the intake........huge improvement.
Good luck and welcome the boosted world
CM
As Knapp also said we do not create the ground speed all the time so we will not have the airflow to keep it cool.........run a diamond S hood and you should solve some of it. I also took out the headlight and screened in the holes to keep more cold air going to the intake........huge improvement.
Good luck and welcome the boosted world
CM
Welcome to the boost club. I have the same turbo and installed 3 others on mountains sleds. Yes there is an air filter problem on mountain sleds. As Mike said you need to extend the air filter away from the inlet of the compressor side. On my I add a piece of curved pipe and used the same silcone hose that is on the outlet of the turbo and the intercooler. The others just a straight piece straigth ahead, I have to be different with mine. I also run a Diamond S hood with the stock windshield and besel, no lights. Still have to lift the hood away from the heat when sitting still, no problem when moving. I don't know if my clutching will help you since we ride around 6000ft not 10,000. I haven't overheated yet.
snowy1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Ha todd is that you if it is give me a call and I can get you started on the cluthing and a few things on the heat problem,I am not running a temp. gauge never have had a problem I do have a bigger heat exchanger in the rear and even on the hard snow it doesn,t heat up going up the road. not like are 2 strokes did.
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