New Member - ApexGT06Canuck

[ApexGT06Canuck]

I went with copper because my titanium Y pipe flanges were completely destroyed. Replaced with 2010 stainless pipes but chose to go with copper as I had read many threads recommending them

 

[RobX-1]

I would never use the copper donuts. The factory donuts will last 5000kms. Just change them every oil change. I have owned 3 apex sleds and put a combined 100,000 plus kilometres on them. Always changed the donuts on the earlier models like yours every 5k. Exup models are good for 10k or more. Never had a cracked pipe or other issue. The donuts are soft for a reason.

Although I would agree that the donuts for a 2011+ Apex (ie EXUP models) do last much longer than the 06-10 version as I have over 8200 miles on my 18 Apex and they are still going strong, I'm not so sure on 'not' using copper donuts. The reason the Y pipe flanges break is due to the donuts wearing out and not being addressed in time. Copper donuts last longer than OEM and are still pliable and have read others recommending them as well. When one of the flanges on one of the titanium Y pipes on my 08 Apex broke, I too opted to replace both with stainless steel counterparts but opted to stick with OEM. After replacing them twice, this time around I went with copper ones.

For me, changing them every oil change would mean changing them every year as I replace oil and filter every year even though I run 0W-40 Yamalube and a Napa Gold 1358 filter regardless of the mileage; though I do average around 2000mi/yr.

 

[ApexGT06Canuck]

Can you run the 2011+ oem gaskets on an 06'? Im already commited to these coppers since I sanded them to fit the pipes but if they cause issues I'll try the 2011+ or buy coppers of the member recommended above.

 

[maim]

the exh is a different size from 06-10 vs 11-18.

 

[72Gran]

The fit difference between 06 and 11 is significant, I remember getting some by mistake and i don’t think you would ever be able to make them fit. If sanding them a bit is working keep going, the tighter they fit over the pipe the less chance of a leak or vibration.

I also am a high mile rider doing between 6 an 8k a season. I just think it’s wise to inspect the exhaust/donuts every oil change and once you go that far it’s not a lot of work to change them.

 

[ApexGT06Canuck]

Thanks for all the welcomes and reply's everyone! Seems like a great community here.

I'm doing an overhaul on this new to me apex. It hasn't had much love since new and was in some desperate need of some TLC.

I'm doing the following while I have it apart:
-Copper Exhaust Donuts
-Stainless Y-pipes
-Replacing damaged flex pipe clamp and both y-pipe to muffler clamps
-Replaced y-pipe bracket
-Swapped to hex head bolts for Y-pipe bracket
-Miscellaneous hardware
-Snowtracker 6" Carbides
-Adjusting Reverse gear linkage
-All teeth are still on gears but showing some wear from gears grinding when popping out. Hopefully the adjustment is enough if not will have to replace the gears.
-Jackshaft bearing
-Driveshaft Bearing
-New Ripsaw 144 pre drilled track, old track lugs were worn to 1.200, several tear throughs on previous 96 stud layout.
-144 Stud boy point point studs with dual and single backing plates
-Head light assembly (the mounting plastic is snapped off one side and entire assembly flaps around in the wind.
-Rebuilding rear mono shock
-Slides
-New boggie wheels with replaceable bearings. Went with Kimpex since OEM accessory wheel was backordered 3 weeks.
-Oil change
-Spark plugs
-Swapping in engine ice coolant
-New rear mud flap

Couple quick questions for you guys;
1)When replacing the Y-pipe to tunnel bracket did you:
a)Re-rivet bracket with OEM yamaha rivets
b)Re-rivet with common steel pop-rivets
c)Replace with 6x bolts, lock washers and nylon-locking nuts for future service
d)Leave the bracket in place and remove the flex pipes to get the Y-pipes in & out
2)On the flex pipe clamps, y-pipe to muffler clamps and muffler bolts did you use loctite, anti-sieze or neither?

I will post some pictures once I sit down long enough to figure out how on this forum, does it require a 3rd party site like photobucket or can I attach pictures directly with the button on the reply box?

 

[72Gran]

Thanks for all the welcomes and reply's everyone! Seems like a great community here.

I'm doing an overhaul on this new to me apex. It hasn't had much love since new and was in some desperate need of some TLC.

I'm doing the following while I have it apart:
-Copper Exhaust Donuts
-Stainless Y-pipes
-Replacing damaged flex pipe clamp and both y-pipe to muffler clamps
-Replaced y-pipe bracket
-Swapped to hex head bolts for Y-pipe bracket
-Miscellaneous hardware
-Snowtracker 6" Carbides
-Adjusting Reverse gear linkage
-All teeth are still on gears but showing some wear from gears grinding when popping out. Hopefully the adjustment is enough if not will have to replace the gears.
-Jackshaft bearing
-Driveshaft Bearing
-New Ripsaw 144 pre drilled track, old track lugs were worn to 1.200, several tear throughs on previous 96 stud layout.
-144 Stud boy point point studs with dual and single backing plates
-Head light assembly (the mounting plastic is snapped off one side and entire assembly flaps around in the wind.
-Rebuilding rear mono shock
-Slides
-New boggie wheels with replaceable bearings. Went with Kimpex since OEM accessory wheel was backordered 3 weeks.
-Oil change
-Spark plugs
-Swapping in engine ice coolant
-New rear mud flap

Couple quick questions for you guys;
1)When replacing the Y-pipe to tunnel bracket did you:
a)Re-rivet bracket with OEM yamaha rivets
b)Re-rivet with common steel pop-rivets-THESE WILL WORK
c)Replace with 6x bolts, lock washers and nylon-locking nuts for future service
d)Leave the bracket in place and remove the flex pipes to get the Y-pipes in & out-I ALWAYS TAKE THE FLEX PIPES OFF FOR DONUTS
2)On the flex pipe clamps, y-pipe to muffler clamps and muffler bolts did you use loctite, anti-sieze or neither?- USE ON EVERYTHING

I will post some pictures once I sit down long enough to figure out how on this forum, does it require a 3rd party site like photobucket or can I attach pictures directly with the button on the reply box?

 

[RobX-1]

Couple quick questions for you guys;
1)When replacing the Y-pipe to tunnel bracket did you:
a)Re-rivet bracket with OEM yamaha rivets
b)Re-rivet with common steel pop-rivets
c)Replace with 6x bolts, lock washers and nylon-locking nuts for future service
d)Leave the bracket in place and remove the flex pipes to get the Y-pipes in & out
2)On the flex pipe clamps, y-pipe to muffler clamps and muffler bolts did you use loctite, anti-sieze or neither?

I will post some pictures once I sit down long enough to figure out how on this forum, does it require a 3rd party site like photobucket or can I attach pictures directly with the button on the reply box?

1) I re-riveted my bracket back on as I too had to drill out the rivets due to the Y pipe bolts being rusted and the socket head cap bolts stripping out but did not use OEM as they get expensive. I bought some avdel stavex multi-grip rivets from Bay Supply which are very similar to OEM but at a much cheaper price even though they come 100 to a bag. Another reason I chose to use rivets vs bolts for future use is now I use high temp anti-sieze on the bolts along with switching to using stainless steel bolts. Never had a reason to remove the bracket since I always remove flex pipes if I have to remove Y pipes.
2) I used the high temp anti-sieze on all of those bolts.

Regarding using Stud Boy studs and backers. Can't say enough good things about their Super lite pro backers. Put over 10,0000 miles on them on the OEM Ripsaw and am running them again on the Ripsaw II.

Old Track:

New Track:

 

[maim]

for any rivits you replace, you can use stavex 3/16" pop rivits from fastenall (where i get mine from). i did not lock tight the clamps as they are usually tight to get off.

 

[ApexGT06Canuck]

72 Gran- was it loctite or anti-sieze you said you use on everything?

RobX-1- yeah my Allen head bolts were stripped out as well. Had to drill them out and the rivets to get the bracket off. I had elected at the time to leave the flex pipes in place. In the future I will remove the flex pipes instead.

I will check out the advel stavex 3/16" rivets you and maim recommended. Does the entire tunnel + track guards use the same rivet? My left guard is loose so want to replace those as well.

Is there an alternative to OEM as well for the mud flap rivets?

I already picked up the aluminum single and double square backers for the new track. I hadn't used plastic before so figured I'd go with what I knew. I suppose I should have posted here first.

This is my first time using stud boy, I've gone with Woody's in the past.

 

[maim]

I will check out the advel stavex 3/16" rivets you and maim recommended. Does the entire tunnel + track guards use the same rivet? My left guard is loose so want to replace those as well.

Is there an alternative to OEM as well for the mud flap rivets?

i use the stavex for all my sled work. rivited the stud gaurds and the tunnel back onto a few sleds with them. they also come with the big head for installing the snow flap.

 

[RobX-1]

I actually prefer using stainless steel socket head bolts, washers, and nylon lock washers for the snow flap. I can't count how many times I have removed it to make it easier to service suspension and what not.

 

[ApexGT06Canuck]

Next one for you guys, Can you remove the driveshaft without removing the rear half of the chaincase? I don't have a 36mm socket deep enough for the nut. Curious if you could remove the driveshaft speedo side bearing and slide the driveshaft that way to pull it out of the crank case bearing or not?

I would like to avoid using an adjustable so that I can torque to spec properly if it has to come off, however cheapest I could find to Canada was over $150.

Does anyone have the link to the 36mm tool used in part 13 of this write up? I have crows feet but not that large, not sure what that tool would be called. https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/GearChange/gearchange prt2.htm

 

[maim]

i usually use a crecent or a deep axle socket with a pry bar through the clutch.

to get drive axle out, you have to pull the chaincase. i tried and could not get it out without pulling it.

 

[ApexGT06Canuck]

I have a 36mm deep axle socket but its still not deep enough to reach the nut. If you use a crescent wrench, what do you do about torque, Good n' tight? lol Just waiting on my VIP status to become active so that I can request a service manual for chaincase torque specs.

Currently looking for a deep enough axle socket to buy or an offset socket like in the link I posted above.

Does Yamaha sell a specialty tool for this nut?