New Vent Kit - Nytro's Instrument Panel

Sevey

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I have always wanted to improve the air flow into the rad - especially when it is at idle or at slower speeds. There is just not enough airflow through the cowl to ram good cold air through the rad.

So I spoke with the guys from MoFlow in California to create a new vent for the dash. Its a nice clean kit. I am anxious to see how it works this winter.

Testing it on the weekend, there was good air being drawn through it into the rad. So, on marginal days when it is warm or out, or when crossing dry lakes when the rad is doing all the work to cool the engine - it should help.

At speed, it should allow more airflow through the cowl area giving the rad a better chance for cold air.

Check it out.

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I'm interested in the cost compared to the other model on the market also?
 
It was around $30 including shipping. That was the appeal - it was a cost effective idea. I tried to size up other existing vent kits to see if one might fit in that spot, but none were symetrically shaped or the right size. I have seen some other ideas on the site but they either cost too much or would take way too long to do the custom work. The Roest vent for the instrument panel looked like a great idea, but $90 for the vent, another $80 for the mount for the instrument display (cause you cut out the plastic part that currently mounts the display), and then ship it. That will be around $200. A little steeper than what I was looking for.

It was super easy to install. A paper template was included - Trace it out - Drill some holes in the corners - use a dremel with a cutting disc - file - sand with a couple grits of sandpaper and your done -rivet the vent on.

Feel free to call the guy. I explained what I wanted to do. I got the idea from another TY'er who did an entirely custom job and made a vent. Sent him some photos of it and he set the c&c machine up to cut the templates and begin producing them.

MS
 
I love it, if mine wasn't already vented I'd buy that kit in a heartbeat. Great price too. What I've found is that the dash vent actually lets heat out more than it lets cool air in. If you want an even better set up, get the Moflow nose vent so you're letting more cold air in through the front, and letting all that hot air out the dash with your dash vent. I've got the moflow nose vent, it is a really nice piece.
 
it's now on their website for $25 plus shipping...I'll be ordering one for sure.
 
Sevey said:
It was around $30 including shipping. That was the appeal - it was a cost effective idea. I tried to size up other existing vent kits to see if one might fit in that spot, but none were symetrically shaped or the right size. I have seen some other ideas on the site but they either cost too much or would take way too long to do the custom work. The Roest vent for the instrument panel looked like a great idea, but $90 for the vent, another $80 for the mount for the instrument display (cause you cut out the plastic part that currently mounts the display), and then ship it. That will be around $200. A little steeper than what I was looking for.

It was super easy to install. A paper template was included - Trace it out - Drill some holes in the corners - use a dremel with a cutting disc - file - sand with a couple grits of sandpaper and your done -rivet the vent on.

Feel free to call the guy. I explained what I wanted to do. I got the idea from another TY'er who did an entirely custom job and made a vent. Sent him some photos of it and he set the c&c machine up to cut the templates and begin producing them.

MS

The "ROEST" vent was a great idea. I invented it. It is still the best one out on the market at 40 sq. inches of vent area. You are incorrect on your pricing however. $89 plus shipping for the vent, or $109 plus shipping for the vent and gauge bracket. The Mountaintech IP Vent frame is constructed from anodized aluminum, not plastic. Plus the gauge bracket relocates the gauge for a better viewing angle for both sitting and stand up riding. You get what you pay for.
 
The instrument panel vent is worthless unless you can get air flow through the rad. Venting the top of it only lets out the hot air once it already hot and you standing still. whitch is to late. You are going to need more vents on the front of the hood to let air in and then move it past the rad. I ran the ip vent for two season with nothing but frustration, it might work for some just not me. Sure its cheap but you defiantly get what you pay for. I ended up building a complete tunnel cooler set up with rad delete. On hard pack with a 2" track and scratchers I barely get up to 170 deg.
 
fishstick said:
The instrument panel vent is worthless unless you can get air flow through the rad. Venting the top of it only lets out the hot air once it already hot and you standing still. whitch is to late. You are going to need more vents on the front of the hood to let air in and then move it past the rad. I ran the ip vent for two season with nothing but frustration, it might work for some just not me. Sure its cheap but you defiantly get what you pay for. I ended up building a complete tunnel cooler set up with rad delete. On hard pack with a 2" track and scratchers I barely get up to 170 deg.

That's like saying a oven won't cool faster if the door is open. You make no sense heat rises therefore it will exit straight through the IP vent. Therefore not worthless.
 
You can dry your gloves on those vents on a break. Lol
 
The problem with the FX Nytro is that the fuel tank forms a wall at the rear of the engine compartment that does not allow hot air to exit. Like yzviper said, heat rises, and an IP vent is like a chimney allowing it to escape. More venting up front on the hood is beneficial, but without the IP vent the flow is not optimized. IMO the Moflow IP vent is much too small.
 

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After looking at both designs, I actually think the Moflow design looks more beneficial. While they will both allow heat to escape...the placement of the Moflow being further to the rear should allow the air to move through the rad first and then out, while the Mountaintech allows the air to come out sooner...which IMO isn't as effective while at trail speed....the air would travel over the rad vs travelling through it....I think this is the point fishstick was trying to make....I think both designs are beneficial in that they allow heat to escape at low speed or while stopped...JMO
 
I think if you add a front hood screen, either top vent, and then put your fan on a toggle instead of waiting for temps to rise you should have the ticket. My buddy did something similar to his 1200 doo and no more problems. Just an opinion though
 


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