Newbie here with 2003 RX1 Bender Stage 2...hi and help!

[Travis Moore]

Hey folks, my name is Travis Moore(as if you can't tell by the user name) and i have a 2003 RX1 with a Bender Stage 2 kit, and stock everything else down to the track. Needless to say last year it was like trying to drive my 620RWHP street car on donuts! I'm about ready to do the track and anti rachet 'things' and i am looking for some advice on what track/stud combo i should go with for mostly trail riding? Also, if there is anything else that you guys could reccomend that would help i would appreciate it. I hope my vast experiance with turbocharging in cars can help here. I look forward to chatting and learning with you guys!

 

[SPEED]

Hey Travis Welcome, I have that turbo for sale on e-bay right now, never got to install it as I am parting out the sled. You have tapped into a vast wealth of knowledge on this site, I am sure these guy,s can get you sraight ,if they can,t sell the sled cause nobody else will be able to. Art

 

[woodsrider]

Travis, where do you ride (i.e. elevation, terrain, average snow conditions, mountains or flat land) and most importantl how much money do you have to spend?

 

[Travis Moore]

Travis, where do you ride (i.e. elevation, terrain, average snow conditions, mountains or flat land) and most importantl how much money do you have to spend?

I'd have to say that most of my riding will be near sea level(Upstate NY/VT) on well packed snow, and mostly flat. I would like to be able to change the studs out to chisels and ride on the ice also with the same track if possible. I ran this across the folks at Bender and they are suggesting a HackSaw track(new version of RipSaw i think) with 192 studs. As far as funds id like to stay below 1000 for the track, studs, and anti ratchet devices. Anything else a 'must have' for my sled? I'd like to add that when i initally installed the kit that i honestly wasent as impressed as i thought i'd be, but i think that might be because of the stock track with no kind of studding?

Thanks
Travis

 

[woodsrider]

How long is your track? How much boost are you currently running? And how much boost do want to run?

 

[Travis Moore]

How long is your track? How much boost are you currently running? And how much boost do want to run?

Its the RX1 ER(short i think) with the stock length track, whatever it is. As far as the boost i think i am going to start this winter with about 6 on low setting and 10 on high, but i'm sure it will be turned up as the winter goes on :ORC

 

[woodsrider]

If you are willing to run a 50/50 mix of super unleaded and 110 octane race fuel, you can run 14-lbs of boost all day long and you should have around 280hp. The trick will be getting the ponies hooked up to the snow. Not being from your area I'm really not the guy to be giving sound advice. Terry Paine from Bedner should be able to help you out. With that said, if I were you I'd go for a longer & wider track. More contact area with the snow always provides better traction. If floatation is an issue, when you're off the trails (if you can get off the trails) I'd recommend 10-tooth antiratchet drivers. When you do get the ponies hooked up you have a tendancy to cog an 8-tooth anti-ratchet driver. To use the 10-tooth you will need to drop and roll the chain case (very popular out west, it increases floatation). A Holz front and rear suspension will make all the difference in the world on how well the sled handles. I could go on and on. Like I said, how much money do you want to spend?

Edit: to go wider you will need a different tunnel, I have seen some sleds with a 16" wide track stuffed under a stock tunnel but it was a little too close for my liking.

 

[Travis Moore]

If you are willing to run a 50/50 mix of super unleaded and 110 octane race fuel, you can run 14-lbs of boost all day long and you should have around 280hp. The trick will be getting the ponies hooked up to the snow. Not being from your area I'm really not the guy to be giving sound advice. Terry Paine from Bedner should be able to help you out. With that said, if I were you I'd go for a longer & wider track. More contact area with the snow always provides better traction. If floatation is an issue, when you're off the trails (if you can get off the trails) I'd recommend 10-tooth antiratchet drivers. When you do get the ponies hooked up you have a tendancy to cog an 8-tooth anti-ratchet driver. To use the 10-tooth you will need to drop and roll the chain case (very popular out west, it increases floatation). A Holz front and rear suspension will make all the difference in the world on how well the sled handles. I could go on and on. Like I said, how much money do you want to spend?

Edit: to go wider you will need a different tunnel, I have seen some sleds with a 16" wide track stuffed under a stock tunnel but it was a little too close for my liking.

Thanks for all the good info. How much power should i have @14psi? I think its 220@8psi. Its weird how all you guys measure your boost before the throttle plate(carb in our case). Standard practice is to measure it afterwards, which i actually did last year and there is about a 1psi diffrence(lower). Terry says strait race gas(like a Sunoco 116 octane) for 14 psi but you have been fine with 50/50? I'd rather be safe then sorry!

 

[Travis Moore]

Also, do you think a stock length studded RipSaw will get decent traction with the Bender at 14psi or will it be pointless?

 

[BlgsRX-1mtn]

There are several guys on here that should be able to help you other than woodsrider (he is a mtn rider). As for what you got stock; you currently have a 121" L x 15"W x 3/4" H 2.52" pitch track if you are stock I believe the shorty came with 9 tooth drivers but am not sure.

Talk to BlueByYou2000 (Speed Shop), SrxSpec (Ulmer Racing), SimonsCPR (Simon's CPR Turbo) on here. These three should be able to give you the advice you need.

Jim

 

[bjniceguy]

The length of track is totally dependent on type of riding you do. The longer the track, the less trail freindly the sled will become. (push in corners) Your 121 will work fine in trails, but a little short on traction with all that power on lakes. A 136 would help on that, but a little harder in trails, but still good. A 144 will still work in trails, but not nearly as well as the 121 you have now Cost wise, a 121 - 1 1 /4 Ripsaw with studs is best bet. With studs I don't beleive you can not use 10 tooth drivers like mountain guys. If you are just riding deep powder, then forget the studs & go a different way. May want to look at ski's also.

Argumentivily you must use better octane fuel at lower alitude than the mountain guys can get away with. A lot of opinions on this. You definitely must jet different.

I would go along with calling any of the above group for flat land stuff.

Doug