• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

no Bs Clutching advise needed.

Hey guys, I am completely new to Yamaha clutching here so bare with me. I have done some clutching work on my XP but nothing with the Yamaha. So if I understand this right all I need to do to set my 2010 MTX 153 up for the MTNs is pull the primary off and add rivets to the "shift arms" is this correct? I also bought a sled here in Saskatchewan. What kind of tools do I need to pull the primary? Is it just the puller that looks like a bolt with a few different threads on it? Or is there a tool that you can use that you can do this while the clutch is on the sled? Also are you having to change the helix angle on your secondary at all or not touching that? Is there such thing as adjustable weights for the primary? Thanks guys in advance.
 

You need to subtract mass from the primary to run at elevation...same as the TRA.
The stock yammie weights are extremely adjustable...way more then any other manufacterer
You need a yammie clutch puller to remove the primary but you can change weights while clutch is in the sled but it,s more difficult.
The secondary does not need to be changed.
 
Awesome thanks. Yeah sorry about that I kinda figured ya had to loose weight on the Primary as you go up in elevation. I have read in places that some guys add/subtract weight in different spots on the primary. Ex. heal,middle,tip? Is there different spots that you can add the weight? Also is there some type of holder/tool you can use to change weights while on sled? I guess the best thing for me to do would be to buy a puller and just dig into it. Thanks again.
 
Rufer19 said:
What kind of tools do I need to pull the primary? Is it just the puller that looks like a bolt with a few different threads on it? Or is there a tool that you can use that you can do this while the clutch is on the sled? Also are you having to change the helix angle on your secondary at all or not touching that? Is there such thing as adjustable weights for the primary? Thanks guys in advance.
Click to expand...

Don't pull the primary, just remove the bolts on the cover and your good to go. Cap has "x"s to mark position and make sure you take off by loosening all bolts so you don't damage cap bearing.
 
Thank You

Sorry for the slow reply busy with work and other B.S. Thanks for all the help full info. The factory set up chart will be handy. I have in my absence from the forum installed a 162 CE so my clutching will off again but at least I have a place to start. I know I will need two set ups it just nice to know what needs to be changed every time I head out West. :jump: ;)! ;)! ;)! ;)! ;)! ;)!
 
I needed help with this too so I called Tom Hartman at Hartman's.

He seems to be an expert on the Yamaha clutching. I bought a custom clutch setup from him last year and had a noticeable improvement in performance.

I keep seeing his clutches listed as components on high-profile project sleds so he must be doing something right.

The price seemed reasonable to me. Tom seems like an outstanding guy. He has a one-man shop but always finds time to answer my questions even if he knows it won't turn into a sale.

His shop is located in Idaho - 208-468-1073
 
Tom is great guy! I will be in contact with him again in the next few weeks and see what he recommends. I have his 08/09 to 2010 tunnel extension on my Nytro and works shocks on my Mmax.
 
I have Tom's setup for my 08 Nytro and I can't wait to try it out this year. Such a nice guy and willing to talk to you for hours about anything yamaha related.
 
Well i ran the exact setup in south east sask. I ran : Stock weights setup for the 2000ft range with the low elevation spring, with a 19tooth top gear with the stock secondary settings.

It worked really good in sask. RPM's were around 8900.

I also purchased another set of weights to take to the mountains I ran them empty with the stock spring. I never hit the rev limiter running in the 5000ft to 7500ft range.

Boosted this year so i changed out everything!

Tom's or Allen Ulmer's setups will work better than the stock parts but might be more spendy! ulmerracing.com has some sweet how-to's in their instructions section

I never pull the secondary to change rivets, just pull the weights off and do it on the bench.
 
I'm running in Sask as well looking to do the same dun a second set of weights for out west. If a different spring is also needed I guess it's not to hard to change both weights and a spring while I'm in there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Gamendola
Push Turbo Nytro Clutching Setup help plz
Replies
1
Views
2K
Big_Phil
B
Swiss Sledder
  • Sticky
Apex/Attak Frequently Asked Questions
2 3 4
Replies
46
Views
147K
Oldexciter
Oldexciter


Back
Top