jamesc
Pro
mine 2010 ltx gt 0 miles, brothers 06 gt 1800 miles. i know there's always potential problems just trying to avoid the most common. i'll list the mods that are / will be done, repairs, spares and equipment.
2010, wired for battery tender, mirrors, billet fuel cap, opened up oil filter access hole installed ST6607 filter, low snow wheel kit, 135 accord top dog stainless studs, round aluminum backers, tall nylock nuts, 8" double down carbides, skid plate, shindy temperature gauge, dash bag, saddle bags, spare graphite hyfax, spare belt. might put a HID lamp kit in it
2006, wired for battery tender, changed oil and filter, mobil one 0-40, ST6607 filter, changed chaincase lube adjusted chain, replaced cam chain tensioner, exhaust gaskets, low snow wheel kit, home grown 1" riser (thickest aluminum i had), 96 (i think) studs, stock skegs (prolly need upgrade there), cleaned and repacked clutch side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings, cyberdyne digital temperature gauge, skid plate, spare belt. this sled has no storage he'll hafta come up with something, need to do something with the oil tank to keep it from cracking, spare hyfax, 35 watt HID hi/lo lamp kit better light and should reduce stator loading. the front end busings are pretty beat he's talking about putting the Ulmer bronze in it. i'm pretty good with electrical and have a couple ideas about hopping up the hand warmers. need to closely inspect the skid but at a glance wheels etc. looks OK, everything will be lubed.
thinking about ice scratchers but want to see if we really need them first. might look into modifying the hyfax anchor screw seems they have caused some problems especially after slide swap.
have a 2008 triton tc-11 in good shape, cleaned it up, replaced rear door hardware with stainless, need to check / repack wheel bearings, have a nicely filled toolbox, spare clutch side driveshaft bearing, spare set of plugs (shouldn't need them), one oil / filter change with drain pan.
any major stuff we've missed?
thanks
2010, wired for battery tender, mirrors, billet fuel cap, opened up oil filter access hole installed ST6607 filter, low snow wheel kit, 135 accord top dog stainless studs, round aluminum backers, tall nylock nuts, 8" double down carbides, skid plate, shindy temperature gauge, dash bag, saddle bags, spare graphite hyfax, spare belt. might put a HID lamp kit in it
2006, wired for battery tender, changed oil and filter, mobil one 0-40, ST6607 filter, changed chaincase lube adjusted chain, replaced cam chain tensioner, exhaust gaskets, low snow wheel kit, home grown 1" riser (thickest aluminum i had), 96 (i think) studs, stock skegs (prolly need upgrade there), cleaned and repacked clutch side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings, cyberdyne digital temperature gauge, skid plate, spare belt. this sled has no storage he'll hafta come up with something, need to do something with the oil tank to keep it from cracking, spare hyfax, 35 watt HID hi/lo lamp kit better light and should reduce stator loading. the front end busings are pretty beat he's talking about putting the Ulmer bronze in it. i'm pretty good with electrical and have a couple ideas about hopping up the hand warmers. need to closely inspect the skid but at a glance wheels etc. looks OK, everything will be lubed.
thinking about ice scratchers but want to see if we really need them first. might look into modifying the hyfax anchor screw seems they have caused some problems especially after slide swap.
have a 2008 triton tc-11 in good shape, cleaned it up, replaced rear door hardware with stainless, need to check / repack wheel bearings, have a nicely filled toolbox, spare clutch side driveshaft bearing, spare set of plugs (shouldn't need them), one oil / filter change with drain pan.
any major stuff we've missed?
thanks
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
on the 06:
1. Woodys Doolies/Slim Jims or Stud Boy Duece bars depending on your preference
2. Rockmeisters hand warmer kits will take care of the handwarmer issue
3. Did you look at the skid closely for cracked welds?
4. Yamaha windshield bag or Yami tank bag/map carrier combo works well for storage
the 10:
1. You might find the 8" of carbide is a tad too much. I know you have a long track but it seems like thru the years no matter if you have a studded long or short track, people seem to like a 6" carbide overall.
Just my .02 and if I think of more I'll post
1. Woodys Doolies/Slim Jims or Stud Boy Duece bars depending on your preference
2. Rockmeisters hand warmer kits will take care of the handwarmer issue
3. Did you look at the skid closely for cracked welds?
4. Yamaha windshield bag or Yami tank bag/map carrier combo works well for storage
the 10:
1. You might find the 8" of carbide is a tad too much. I know you have a long track but it seems like thru the years no matter if you have a studded long or short track, people seem to like a 6" carbide overall.
Just my .02 and if I think of more I'll post
jamesc
Pro
on the 06 we figured one way or another he needs to get some carbide on the front. i did just glance at the suspension and didn't see any cracks but plan on going over it closely. hopefully there won't be any issues, this sled just looks like it's been ridden not flogged.
on the 10 i inquired about using the 6" rather than the 8" both from an experienced member here that has the same sled and john at john master and they both recommended the 8". i really thought for me the 6" was what i wanted but what do i know. frankly when the 8" showed up i saw the size of them (not to mention the weight) and my first thought was i wished i got the 6", being new i have no experience so what can i do. in my mind i was just considering what the sled was shipped with and what these are, these things are absolutely huge compared. there's only a $20 difference so that wasn't part of the equation...arrgh
thanks for the input
on the 10 i inquired about using the 6" rather than the 8" both from an experienced member here that has the same sled and john at john master and they both recommended the 8". i really thought for me the 6" was what i wanted but what do i know. frankly when the 8" showed up i saw the size of them (not to mention the weight) and my first thought was i wished i got the 6", being new i have no experience so what can i do. in my mind i was just considering what the sled was shipped with and what these are, these things are absolutely huge compared. there's only a $20 difference so that wasn't part of the equation...arrgh
thanks for the input
Banks93
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I don't think you will hate the 8" ones if you drive aggressive.
If you don't then I would get 6".
If you don't then I would get 6".
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Suggestion on your new sled. Don't know how many miles you ride per year but after your first trip (2+ days) or 300 miles, change the oil and filter, and also change the chaincase oil and use Mobil 1 75-90 (think that's the weight...would have to look in the garage) gear lube.
Whether it's a car, truck, ATV etc, the OEM's aren't able to get every little piece of "stuff" out of the motor during the assembly process. It end up in the crankcase/gearcase.
Whether it's a car, truck, ATV etc, the OEM's aren't able to get every little piece of "stuff" out of the motor during the assembly process. It end up in the crankcase/gearcase.
jamesc
Pro
i planned on putting maybe 200 miles on it then changing the lubes, filter, checking the chain adjustment and just basically looking it over. not only is there potential scrap / dirt from machining and assembly but long before you hit the recommended 500 miles all the new parts have sheared off metal during the break in. i feel that by 200 (probably much sooner actually) miles most of that is over with. i already have a change of oil, filter, gear lube, drain pan and filter wrench in the supply tote that's going with us.
my father taught me long ago it's not possible the get an engine too clean during assembly. i actually have two solvent wash tanks. one for everyday stuff and one i use just for the race engines plus a whole assortment of different diameter brushes for galleys and such.
my father taught me long ago it's not possible the get an engine too clean during assembly. i actually have two solvent wash tanks. one for everyday stuff and one i use just for the race engines plus a whole assortment of different diameter brushes for galleys and such.
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
^^^Agreed on the new stuff! I changed my oil on my WR250r after 150, 300, then at the recommended 500 mile mark, and it was still very dirty! Now, with 3000 miles on it, the oil stays gold looking in the window for a while. Like mentioned, left over debris, shavings, etc.
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
By the way Jamesc, nice preventative maint, i'd buy a used sled from you anytime. Little maint goes a long ways, plus you get a little understanding of how it works in case you do have troubles on a trip sometime. Good job.
jamesc
Pro
progress report on the 06
we installed the HID kit
machined up a inline tube from 1 3/8 aluminum bar stock for the coolant temperature sender and installed the gauge
pulled the carbs and cleaned them out
enlarged the mounting hole in the oil tank and installed a rubber grommet, hopefully the tank won't crack now
about all that's left is to check the skid over, install the bronze kit in the front end, add some carbide to the front and hopefully go play in the snow
we installed the HID kit
machined up a inline tube from 1 3/8 aluminum bar stock for the coolant temperature sender and installed the gauge
pulled the carbs and cleaned them out
enlarged the mounting hole in the oil tank and installed a rubber grommet, hopefully the tank won't crack now
about all that's left is to check the skid over, install the bronze kit in the front end, add some carbide to the front and hopefully go play in the snow
