azscott
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Messages
- 8
Well..I fixed the carb....I replaced the primary sheave, weights and cam...they were toasted....but I have a clutch issue.
When I idle, in neutral, the sheaves turn...which they should not. The should be sitting and not turn until a bit of throttle is applied.
If I toss it in gear the bike jumps a bit since the sheaves are turning. Then quickly they stop turning and you can hear the clutch start wine ( wet clutch).
If you toss it back into neutral the sheaves will not turn for a few moments and the wine will continue but...slowly the sheaves will start to turn and the clutch wine will decrease slowly in correspondance with the sheaves turning.
Obviously this is not correct.
I took off the wet clutch cover and the clutch housing and one way bearing work correctly per the manual and the clutch shoes do not look burnt or owrn....so WTF.
scott
When I idle, in neutral, the sheaves turn...which they should not. The should be sitting and not turn until a bit of throttle is applied.
If I toss it in gear the bike jumps a bit since the sheaves are turning. Then quickly they stop turning and you can hear the clutch start wine ( wet clutch).
If you toss it back into neutral the sheaves will not turn for a few moments and the wine will continue but...slowly the sheaves will start to turn and the clutch wine will decrease slowly in correspondance with the sheaves turning.
Obviously this is not correct.
I took off the wet clutch cover and the clutch housing and one way bearing work correctly per the manual and the clutch shoes do not look burnt or owrn....so WTF.
scott
Big Daddy
Newbie
scott, i have posted the cold blooded griz question here on the board. i have fixed many things from motorcycles to all kinds of stuff on the farm but don't know what to do with my cold blooded griz. it sounds like a air fuel mixture problem to me but i don't know what to adjust? thanks
azscott
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Messages
- 8
Well I fixed my rich cold blooded Griz today. No one on any forums ever responded as to where or how to adjust it...I went to the dealer and had the mechanic tell me...and he was not fond of me asking how to questions.
I did not need advice on air/fuel mixture theory...just where is the damn screw.
Most say to turn it in until it lightly bottoms out and then back it out 2.5 turns. Well mine was 4.25 turns until it bottomed...it was way rich. After much adjusting and tuning it ended up at like 1.75 -2 turns out...even 2.5 was too rich. Now maybe someone had put different jets in at some point I don't know...but this is what worked for me.
This stopped the loading up under light throttle and so on.
The screw is on the underside of the forward portion of the carb where your boot attaches too. This is on the side that is between the carb and the cylinder intake. You would see two large philips screws on either side for holding something together ( I am not sure what they were for without looking again) but anyway in between these two large philips head screws is a recessed air fuel mixture screw..it is a slotted screw. You can loosen the carb up and turn it away from you slightly to see these. You need to loosen the boots on either side of the carb so it will turn slightly.
Just turn it in and count the turns so you know where to go back too if need be.
Scott
I did not need advice on air/fuel mixture theory...just where is the damn screw.
Most say to turn it in until it lightly bottoms out and then back it out 2.5 turns. Well mine was 4.25 turns until it bottomed...it was way rich. After much adjusting and tuning it ended up at like 1.75 -2 turns out...even 2.5 was too rich. Now maybe someone had put different jets in at some point I don't know...but this is what worked for me.
This stopped the loading up under light throttle and so on.
The screw is on the underside of the forward portion of the carb where your boot attaches too. This is on the side that is between the carb and the cylinder intake. You would see two large philips screws on either side for holding something together ( I am not sure what they were for without looking again) but anyway in between these two large philips head screws is a recessed air fuel mixture screw..it is a slotted screw. You can loosen the carb up and turn it away from you slightly to see these. You need to loosen the boots on either side of the carb so it will turn slightly.
Just turn it in and count the turns so you know where to go back too if need be.
Scott
azscott
Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Messages
- 8
I have looked at this dang wet clutch issue for a few days now.
I don't see any serious issues with the clutch shoes or the clutch housing...actually they look fine....especially the housing.
The one way bearing was in correct also.
But I sat and thought about it and I can't see the clutch shoes themselves causing a wine like that....I could be wrong but they are immersed in the engine oil....?
Maybe it is the one way bearing....maybe it tests fine when you rotate it along with the lcutch assembly but...under a load it isn't. Yet there is no scoring or marks of any kind.
It is definately in the wet clutch and not in the sheaves. The clutch should not allow the clutch/sheave assembly to rotate at low idle and it is.
Like I said it will stop rotating if you pop it in any gear but then it wines as the cluthc lets it slip....once it starts to grap it stops wining gradually.
Has anyone run into this...I would think it is not uncommon....but why?
scott
I don't see any serious issues with the clutch shoes or the clutch housing...actually they look fine....especially the housing.
The one way bearing was in correct also.
But I sat and thought about it and I can't see the clutch shoes themselves causing a wine like that....I could be wrong but they are immersed in the engine oil....?
Maybe it is the one way bearing....maybe it tests fine when you rotate it along with the lcutch assembly but...under a load it isn't. Yet there is no scoring or marks of any kind.
It is definately in the wet clutch and not in the sheaves. The clutch should not allow the clutch/sheave assembly to rotate at low idle and it is.
Like I said it will stop rotating if you pop it in any gear but then it wines as the cluthc lets it slip....once it starts to grap it stops wining gradually.
Has anyone run into this...I would think it is not uncommon....but why?
scott
gunny
Veteran
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2008
- Messages
- 42
azscott ... I've heard of some other Grizzly riders talk about a whine, I'll have to do some more searching to see what they found.
I'm wondering if it still might be the one way bearing ? Looking at the service manual, it reads, to check for any chaffing, wear or damage. To replace the one way bearing AND clutch housing as a set.
The one way bearing must be installed with the flange side facing in.
Here are a couple more checks ...
* Install the one way-way clutch bearing & clutch carrier assembly to the clutch housing & hold the clutch carrier assembly.
* When turning the clutch housing clockwise, the clutch housing should turn freely. (In the picture, the clutch housing shaft is in the guys right hand, his left hand is inside the clutch housing, turning the clutch carrier & one-way bearing TOWARDS him.)
If not, the one-way clutch assembly is faulty. Replace it.
* When turning the clutch housing counter-clockwise, the clutch housing & crankshaft should be engaged. (Holding the clutch housing like above, now you would be turning the clutch carrier & one-way bearing away from you)
If not, the one-way clutch assembly is faulty. Replace it.
On your wet clutch - the shoe thickness at 0.06. The wear limit is 0.04. If it's at 0.04 or less, they should be changed.
This measurement is taken from the bottom of the grooves in the shoes to ... in the picture, it looks like the half way area. Or is that were the shoe it glued to the metal like a brake shoe ?? (I've never had mine apart, so ... I'm guess'in here)
Anyway, all of that may not help ya at all ... but it was good read'in huh !! ... LOL !!!
Hope ya get it figured out.
Later ...
I'm wondering if it still might be the one way bearing ? Looking at the service manual, it reads, to check for any chaffing, wear or damage. To replace the one way bearing AND clutch housing as a set.
The one way bearing must be installed with the flange side facing in.
Here are a couple more checks ...
* Install the one way-way clutch bearing & clutch carrier assembly to the clutch housing & hold the clutch carrier assembly.
* When turning the clutch housing clockwise, the clutch housing should turn freely. (In the picture, the clutch housing shaft is in the guys right hand, his left hand is inside the clutch housing, turning the clutch carrier & one-way bearing TOWARDS him.)
If not, the one-way clutch assembly is faulty. Replace it.
* When turning the clutch housing counter-clockwise, the clutch housing & crankshaft should be engaged. (Holding the clutch housing like above, now you would be turning the clutch carrier & one-way bearing away from you)
If not, the one-way clutch assembly is faulty. Replace it.
On your wet clutch - the shoe thickness at 0.06. The wear limit is 0.04. If it's at 0.04 or less, they should be changed.
This measurement is taken from the bottom of the grooves in the shoes to ... in the picture, it looks like the half way area. Or is that were the shoe it glued to the metal like a brake shoe ?? (I've never had mine apart, so ... I'm guess'in here)
Anyway, all of that may not help ya at all ... but it was good read'in huh !! ... LOL !!!
Hope ya get it figured out.
Later ...
huntergrizz
Newbie
Scott, I had the same noise at idle in neutral and the noise went away once the clutch engaged. The one-way bearing and clutch housing and wet clutch carrier had to be replaced. The machined surfaces had cupping marks on them. Works fine now. Did the work myself.Cost was around $500.00. Good luck. 
