ruttinbuck
Veteran
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- Jan 25, 2012
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- 47
Can someone please post the link for directions replacing Nytro exhaust donuts
I can't find it.
Thanks
I can't find it.
Thanks
Kind of a mishmash. Don't be afraid and don't lose your temper. Post any questions. Someone will answer.
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/2008-yamaha-nytro-exhaust-bolts-help.133282/
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/2008-yamaha-nytro-exhaust-bolts-help.133282/
ruttinbuck
Veteran
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thank you
mnman309
Expert
Best advice ever is use an impact driver to remove the screws in the tunnel for the header pipe and use the copper replacement gaskets!
Beartrap
Veteran
Any tips for removing the side bolts on the exhaust cover? Mine are rusted and the force I am applying to the bolts is bending the cover.
maybe a little heat? Aerokroil is a product some one showed me. Better than anything else I have tried.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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- Marquette, MI
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- Yamaha FX Nytro RTX SE
I hold the nut end with a pair of adjustable pliers so it doesn't curl up in a ball.
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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heat x2.
When you put it back together, clean it up and use some of the silver never seize on it.
Make sure you inspect the insulation on the inside of that heat shield, mine was almost gone and the whole thing had to be replaced.
MS
When you put it back together, clean it up and use some of the silver never seize on it.
Make sure you inspect the insulation on the inside of that heat shield, mine was almost gone and the whole thing had to be replaced.
MS
Beartrap
Veteran
I got it off after soaking in oil overnight and using some pliers. Thanks.
Here is a picture of the inside of the cover. How bad is mine? Should I use an exhaust patch or something where the insulation is gone?
Here is a picture of the inside of the cover. How bad is mine? Should I use an exhaust patch or something where the insulation is gone?
Last edited:
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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Yours is in better shape than mine, but you can see it is beginning to disintegrate.
The question now is - if you can patch it - will it hold or continue to erode quickly - and when is the next time you will have it apart to address it then?
I have a trail tank - so there is not much space in there and didn't want to take the chance of excess heat. Heat+gas=bad. I replaced the entire part - it was just over a $100 - nice. I scraped out what was left on the bottom one and used heat shield (silver fabric that peel and stick) from royal distributing. The top shield takes way more heat than the bottom one.
MS
The question now is - if you can patch it - will it hold or continue to erode quickly - and when is the next time you will have it apart to address it then?
I have a trail tank - so there is not much space in there and didn't want to take the chance of excess heat. Heat+gas=bad. I replaced the entire part - it was just over a $100 - nice. I scraped out what was left on the bottom one and used heat shield (silver fabric that peel and stick) from royal distributing. The top shield takes way more heat than the bottom one.
MS
Beartrap
Veteran
So I have not been able to get the two Allen head hanger bolts to budge with an impact driver, hammer, oil, and heat.
I'll keep soaking them in oil and see what happens.
What's my best alternative? Drilling them out?
I'll keep soaking them in oil and see what happens.
What's my best alternative? Drilling them out?
nydiver
Lifetime Member
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- Syracuse, NY
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- 09 Nytro XTX
09 Nytro RTX
91 Phazer II (gotta have a classic / kids bomber :) )
Take a look at this if you want to replace the heat barrier
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hlx-401-1302/overview/
For the band clamp bolts my gaskets were shot, so the clamps rotated easily. I brought the "nut" side to the top and heated them to red hot with the torch and the cutting tip (rosebud was too wide and messy), I then turned it and hit the bolt head with wd-40 to cool the bolt a bit then grabbed them with vise grips and twisted them, it took some effort but they came out. I took the old bolts and made a cut long ways in them with a dremel cut off wheel and used them to tap/clean out the nut threads (I was being cheap, right way is to get the right tap and clean up the threads). I then grinded off about an 1/8 th of an inch of the spacer on the clamps, put in the copper donuts from Travis, and used new bolts in the clamps to put it all back together.
Hope that has some help for you in there
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hlx-401-1302/overview/
For the band clamp bolts my gaskets were shot, so the clamps rotated easily. I brought the "nut" side to the top and heated them to red hot with the torch and the cutting tip (rosebud was too wide and messy), I then turned it and hit the bolt head with wd-40 to cool the bolt a bit then grabbed them with vise grips and twisted them, it took some effort but they came out. I took the old bolts and made a cut long ways in them with a dremel cut off wheel and used them to tap/clean out the nut threads (I was being cheap, right way is to get the right tap and clean up the threads). I then grinded off about an 1/8 th of an inch of the spacer on the clamps, put in the copper donuts from Travis, and used new bolts in the clamps to put it all back together.
Hope that has some help for you in there
