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Nytro in the Trees

I also run as soft as I can. It seems to mAke the sled deal better with crossing ruts and tracks as you go across ruts and other peoples tracks. Mine is a handful on the trails but I will give that up to have the better handling off trail.
 

I found softer air pressure settings helps with side-hilling as well. On mine 65psi in the front seems to be about right for my weight and riding conditions.
I tried dropping them down to 60psi and it was really easy to lay-over, however it was like riding a beach ball on the trail! It's amazing what a difference just 5psi can make!
Bill
 
Mtnviper said:
I found softer air pressure settings helps with side-hilling as well. On mine 65psi in the front seems to be about right for my weight and riding conditions.
I tried dropping them down to 60psi and it was really easy to lay-over, however it was like riding a beach ball on the trail! It's amazing what a difference just 5psi can make!
Bill

OK, sounds like I need to give softer another chance. I was tending toward 80 lbs so I could go in and out of drainage swales and variable terrain with some speed while up on edge, but it makes overall handling a lot of work. Mtnviper how much do you weigh without gear? I am at 185 and tried 55 lbs on the Floats and just thought it didn't seem to allow the skis to contribute to directional changes as well.
 
Thanks for all the input. I am loving it. I don't think we have enough talk about how these sleds handle and what is working for people and what's not.
 
treehugger said:
Mtnviper said:
I found softer air pressure settings helps with side-hilling as well. On mine 65psi in the front seems to be about right for my weight and riding conditions.
I tried dropping them down to 60psi and it was really easy to lay-over, however it was like riding a beach ball on the trail! It's amazing what a difference just 5psi can make!
Bill

OK, sounds like I need to give softer another chance. I was tending toward 80 lbs so I could go in and out of drainage swales and variable terrain with some speed while up on edge, but it makes overall handling a lot of work. Mtnviper how much do you weigh without gear? I am at 185 and tried 55 lbs on the Floats and just thought it didn't seem to allow the skis to contribute to directional changes as well.

I'm 165-170 without gear, I should add that I'm running a Timbersled front end and RTX SE Float X shocks. Ski stance is set to 39 1/4" and I using the stock spindles. Just in case that makes a differnce.

Bill
 
You're using Timbersled a-arms with oem spindles? Why not use Timbersled spindles? Do you have any pics? I'd like to see how the oem spindles sit on TS arms.
 
scmurs said:
Ruckus said:
The Phazer is exactly the same. The only real way to control it is to lift the skis and turn with the track or hang off the side of it (I installed a left throttle to help here). Unfortunately the Phazer doesn't lift its skis very well. I think it has to do with the height of the engine in the chassis. Look at where the crank is compared to other sleds. The Phazer is about 6" higher than pretty much any two stroke.

I would actually like to respectfully disagree with you on this. I'm guessing that your Phazer still has the wider front end as it came in short track form?

A Phazer MTX, with the narrower front end, is much easier to throw around than a Nytro MTX with its narrow front end. I do understand the "high point" of the motor that you are bringing up. Both the Phazer and the Nytro inherently have that "tip over point" that tends to catch you off guard. A more predictable rate of roll would be what I'm looking for. Make sense?

That is true, for sure. The MTX is more flickable in the soft snow but when it decides to go its gone. I may go with a narrower front end next year but I wish there was something in between the two.
 
Now what about skid shock preload? I've tried running around 100 psi in the rear thinking it might allow the ba ck of the sled to come around easier while carving. Sorta worked, but felt too soft. Conversely, I've upped it to 150 psi and found that increased the effort to carve and caused the sled to want to go straight.

What have you all found to work best for powder and trees? Don't care much about trail manners, spend very little time there.
 
Nikolai said:
You're using Timbersled a-arms with oem spindles? Why not use Timbersled spindles? Do you have any pics? I'd like to see how the oem spindles sit on TS arms.

Yes OEM spindles with TS arms. On the TS spindles the distance between the ball joint and center point where the tie rod attaches, is about 3/8" shorter then the OEM spindles. This quicken's the steering but also increases the steering effort slightly. They work great in the powder. However I found that in the wet heavy "Cascade Conrete" that we have to ride in, the steering effort was a little more than before.
Since I still had the stock spindles, I though that I would give them a try.
The only mod I had to do was drill out the hole for the upper ball joint stud. I also drilled the hole down through the "second layer" to allow the upper ball joint stud to extend downwards. There is even enough room for the TS upper ball joint stud nut to fit between the upper layers.
Then I just held the nut with a thin 3/4" open end wrench and tighened the upper ball joint stud using a 5/8" wrench.
For the bottom ball joint I put the longer sleeve on the bottom of the ball joint instead of the top. This puts the distance between the upper and lower ball joints the same as when using TS spindles!
I'll take some pics and try to post them tonight.
 

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Mtnviper said:
Nikolai said:
You're using Timbersled a-arms with oem spindles? Why not use Timbersled spindles? Do you have any pics? I'd like to see how the oem spindles sit on TS arms.

Yes OEM spindles with TS arms. On the TS spindles the distance between the ball joint and center point where the tie rod attaches, is about 3/8" shorter then the OEM spindles. This quicken's the steering but also increases the steering effort slightly. They work great in the powder. However I found that in the wet heavy "Cascade Conrete" that we have to ride in, the steering effort was a little more than before.
Since I still had the stock spindles, I though that I would give them a try.
The only mod I had to do was drill out the hole for the upper ball joint stud. I also drilled the hole down through the "second layer" to allow the upper ball joint stud to extend downwards. There is even enough room for the TS upper ball joint stud nut to fit between the upper layers.
Then I just held the nut with a thin 3/4" open end wrench and tighened the upper ball joint stud using a 5/8" wrench.
For the bottom ball joint I put the longer sleeve on the bottom of the ball joint instead of the top. This puts the distance between the upper and lower ball joints the same as when using TS spindles!


I'll take some pics and try to post them tonight.

;)! ;)!
 
Here are a few more pics from Skinz weekend with Dan Adams during a clinic in Alpine WY


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So MT does this new setup really inspire confidence enough that you aren't afraid to stick it in really tight tough spots?

I was wondering also if he made it through in the last pic. Hard to tell if he is bailing or just hopping to the other side of the sled.
 
yes, it inspires confidence...that woozy feeling in off camber tight spots, that you HAVE to make or else...not an issue..well, atleast I put myself in spots that the situation is grave sometimes (never with other people) and well, that is what keeps me enjoying sleds...

It really is hard to describe how HUGE of an impact this is...

I am trying to get the rest of the story on that last pic too, but knowing the rider, there is NO way he did not make it.. :)
 
I would say check out the second pic in this group...downhill powder turn STEEP...and trees below...

I dont know about you, but I would not have done this on my Nytro...I have had to do it, but it is not something that didnt have me nervous....now, it is predictable, and you undestand what is going to happen, where as before, you were tentative to say the least...
 


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