chevyspy
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Hey guys - new to the site. I have a Nytro XTX 144 with Push Turbo. Someone else did the turbo installation with no tuning and I have been working to get it dialed in all winter. Its finally running great but I have one issue - the studs are eating the charge air tube apart and also hitting the exhaust (as you can see). The exhaust issue is not terrible, although not optimal but the charge air tube is taking a beating. I have put a piece of stainless over the tube to try to protect it and get through the season but its at a point where the shield is not working any more. It seems to take most of the beating when accelerating and weight is transfering to the back. I have tried to tighten the track and that did not work. I believe I have a few options to solve the issue:
1. Remove studs from track.
2. Relocate charge air tube to outside of tunnel.
3. Lower track to MTX height (probably requires new rear skid mounts and longer track).
Has anyone else experienced this problem and know how to fix it?
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1. Remove studs from track.
2. Relocate charge air tube to outside of tunnel.
3. Lower track to MTX height (probably requires new rear skid mounts and longer track).
Has anyone else experienced this problem and know how to fix it?
Accentstripe1
Extreme
Studs
I used to run a rear mount turbo (powderlites). What I did was take hyfax and rivet it to the tunnel protectors (top of tunnel and the front heat exchanger). I'm sure what lug height you have but I was running 1.25 lug height with 1.375 double backer studs. Never had and issue at 10-15lbs of boost
I used to run a rear mount turbo (powderlites). What I did was take hyfax and rivet it to the tunnel protectors (top of tunnel and the front heat exchanger). I'm sure what lug height you have but I was running 1.25 lug height with 1.375 double backer studs. Never had and issue at 10-15lbs of boost
kviper
TY 4 Stroke God
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I have a MCX rear mount on my 12 Apex 128" and had very little stud clearance as well. I moved the protector's and still was tight. I ended up extending the rear skid mount about a half inch (lowering the skid) and lowering the rear upper idler wheel's about 1.25". Than I cut the dove tail's off a new set of high fax, counter sunk, drilled holes and riveted them to the tunnel protector's. All good so far. It sounds like you are contacting with hard transfer? I had that problem with studing my Phazer's. Maybe limiting your transfer till your ski's are just off the snow would help?
chevyspy
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Do you have any pics of the brackets you used to lower the track?
chevyspy
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I adjusted the turbo charge air tube to add additional clearance and move it twards the outside of the tunnel. Also added Timbersled rear aluminum skid mount brackets which I had to modify since they were for a MTX SE. Now I have all the clearance in the world. I just hope that my rear suspension geometery works ok. It seems like the rear brackets being lower are putting additional pressure on the rear suspension which causes it to bottom easy but I won't know until I ride it.chevyspy said:Do you have any pics of the brackets you used to lower the track?
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