OFT relocator mod showed up today in the mail , need advice

[Off Trail Mike]

Dutchie
Here's what I did to adjust. A bit different but it worked.

I removed the nose cone and dropped the voltage regulator/computer out of the way. This let me put a 9/16" (yes I know its a 14mm metric nut) on the lower jam nut. And with a 14mm wrench on the steering link, I was able to break it free and adjust.

The one thing I noticed is that the lower jam nut behaved like a lock nut, even though it isn't. I noticed a similar problem on the steering arm hiem joints as well when installing the skinz front end.

To free up the jam nut, I removed the steering link, and put a long extension/deep socket on a cordless drill. By running the lower jam nut up and down on the heim joint threads with a bit of grease, I was able to free up its movement.

This made it simple to get the proper alignment and then move the lock nuts into position and and tighten.

It also avoids having to remove the tapered heim joint out of the steering post, which can be a PITA.

OTM

 

[judger101]

thanks for the tip of using the air hammer.

i simply moved the headlight out of the way and then used the air hammer to press it out, worked like a charm! them turned her in a few turns to straighten it out and used the impact to suck it back down over the taper.

 

[dutchie]

yes , thats the best and slickest way to do the bottom , once it's out , a couple turns and it lines back up ,

one little thing i did , was before sliding that taper pin back in , make sure the end down inside is straight and not laid on it side touching , then i held the rod straight while making the final adjustment , then i tighten my jam nut up , basicly my rod is straight from the front down to the bottom

 

[rlcofmn]

Stock skid on a 2010 162 track , should I let some air pressure out of the front fox float and let the strap down one notch , my back shock has 160 psi in it

Must be a little trick to setting these sleds up with air pressure and setting the track up other then what factory specs are

She runs great and handles good , just would like to be able to get the nose up some

More pressure in your front shock, less in your rear shock and let your limiter out. You basicaly want your front skid shock to take more of the weight. The Nytro handles good with a lot of pressure on the front of the skid. Set up snow it will make it want to stand up though on steep climbs. Or you boost it, then your skis are just there for parking.

 

[rlcofmn]

thanks for the tip of using the air hammer.

i simply moved the headlight out of the way and then used the air hammer to press it out, worked like a charm! them turned her in a few turns to straighten it out and used the impact to suck it back down over the taper.

Air hammer does make quick work of it. I've done it quite a few times without, but it only takes a second if you have a air hammer available.

 

[birkebeiner]

Which joint are we talking about here? # 13 or 14 in the pic attached, or a different one? Asking because I'll be going through the same in a couple of weeks and want to be prepared

 

[Off Trail Mike]

birkebeiner

12-16 require adjustment. Its a small adjustment but otherwise your handlebars will be off center.

Getting to the lower locknut and the threads on the hiem joints can be a PITA to get at and adjust.

IMHO, I found you had a much better chance at adjusting by taking the nosecone off and lower computer/regulator out of the way.... Takes 10 minutes.

OTM

 

[scmurs]

Which joint are we talking about here? # 13 or 14 in the pic attached, or a different one? Asking because I'll be going through the same in a couple of weeks and want to be prepared

Loosen #15

Remove #29

Separate #13 from #2

Turn #13 in two full turns

Re-assemble

 

[birkebeiner]

That's easy At least sounds like it

 

[yox185]

Loosen #15

Remove #29

Separate #13 from #2

Turn #13 in two full turns

Re-assemble

Then left hand green, right foot yellow.

 

[canoehead]

Why wouldn't you loosen 15 & 16 and turn the rod #12?

 

[Off Trail Mike]

Which joint are we talking about here? # 13 or 14 in the pic attached, or a different one? Asking because I'll be going through the same in a couple of weeks and want to be prepared

Loosen #15

Remove #29

Separate #13 from #2

Turn #13 in two full turns

Re-assemble

Scott: There you go talking in code again!.....could be worse I suppose, could be Morse Code in dots and dashes, LOL

OTM

 

[rlcofmn]

Why wouldn't you loosen 15 & 16 and turn the rod #12?

That is what OTM is describing, the only problem is 16 is tough to get to. The other way, all the parts are easy to get to, but either would work.

 

[judger101]

yes i tried to get the lower nut loose and decided to take off the rod and turn it in that way. it worked quite well with much less frustration.

 

[canoehead]

I guess the other option would have to been to turn the steering rods #24 each a couple of turns?