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Oil Breather Leak Fix?


we really need a good permenant fix for this. i just spent ALL DAY, cleaning the pans, clutches, ect... one rollover to get unstuck, lost over a quart of oil, in the pans, then into the clutches, oil was EVERYWHERE!!! cost me a belt, and ALOT OF TIME!

we need an easy kit and good directions for install. i dont ever want to have to clean that much oil up again. ski
 
Here are some photos of the electric shut off valve I just installed tonight. I hooked it up using a 12 volt relay, I also hooked a red light up to it so if the fuse blows for whatever reason the light will go off telling me that the valve has lost power and is closed and I need to shut her down. I know the light seems kind of goddy looking but thats the point, it sticks out like a sore thumb this way you cant miss it. what do ya think, its all I can come up with.
 

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My only suggestion would be to put the "outlet" of the valve somewhere other than over the brake caliper. I know oil shouldn't ever come out, but...there is that guy Murphy and his law.
 
What about a normally open valve that would be open all the time. You could have it wired to the tether, for those that have one, to close when it is pulled. That way when you roll it over you could yank the tether if it hasn't already come off. This way there would be no worry of it failing in the closed position while engine running. Just a thought. :dunno:
 
Yellowknife said:
Okay well, I'm going to take idea's forward to Yamaha Canada and get something approved through my dealer. I think they are willing to work towards a solution, but I need them on board.

Sorry to hijack your thread. But if your already going to your dealer for a fix, add a hand warmer fix. I know you have great influence with Yamaha Canada.
 
towerrigger said:
What about a normally open valve that would be open all the time. You could have it wired to the tether, for those that have one, to close when it is pulled. That way when you roll it over you could yank the tether if it hasn't already come off. This way there would be no worry of it failing in the closed position while engine running. Just a thought. :dunno:

Thats a good idea also, I will have to look and see if they have one. As for the valve being over the brake I am thinking about running hose from the outlet down to the bottom of the sled, but first I am going to ride it a couple of times so I can monitor it to make sure it stays open.

With a normally open valve you would have to make sure it had power supplied to it when the tether is pulled, it is definatelly an option. Keep the ideas coming. :bling
 
Another option to go with the normally closed valve would be a pressure relief valve as backup if it closes for some reason while the engine running. A person would have to know what pressure the oil tank has though. May not be worth the effort. The warning LED is probably good enough.
 
what you need to realize is that when the valve is open it is a vent, it will push air/oil out of the end you have exposed to the brake rotor/caliper when the motor is running. this pulses with the revolutions of the motor, and oil will mist out and breathe in with pulses. you will need to install a catch can and filter on that open end to help retrieve some mist.

same principal as a yamaha four stroke dirt bike crank vents. most are rerouted to the air box with a filtered end to avoid picking up dirt and ingesting it to the motor during heavy dust/sand riding.

i have a yz-450f and for supermoto we had to install a crankcase catch can to avoid oil on the track during sustained high rpm running. it works ok but not stellar.

you may be on to something but, alot more thought needs to go into this.

start the sled, put your hand over the open end of your T fitting, i'll bet you can feel the motor pulse. ski
 
skidooboy said:
what you need to realize is that when the valve is open it is a vent, it will push air/oil out of the end you have exposed to the brake rotor/caliper when the motor is running. this pulses with the revolutions of the motor, and oil will mist out and breathe in with pulses. you will need to install a catch can and filter on that open end to help retrieve some mist.

same principal as a yamaha four stroke dirt bike crank vents. most are rerouted to the air box with a filtered end to avoid picking up dirt and ingesting it to the motor during heavy dust/sand riding.

i have a yz-450f and for supermoto we had to install a crankcase catch can to avoid oil on the track during sustained high rpm running. it works ok but not stellar.

you may be on to something but, alot more thought needs to go into this.

start the sled, put your hand over the open end of your T fitting, i'll bet you can feel the motor pulse. ski


I can feel the air pulsing with the engine running, this is a good way to tell if the valve is for sure open. As for the oil mist getting all over the place I understand that, I am just throwing my idea out to you guys. Lets take what we got now and try to perfect it, maybe my idea needs to have a hose ran from the end of the valve down to a catch bottle or just let it run out on the belly pan. Or how about an end that point upwards so the oil mist will fall back down into the valve and into the engine again. I just hope it works without killing my engine somehow.
 
maybe start with a hose from the open end of the valve, heading downward into either a filtered end, or filter and catch can/bottle that can be drained. that should help alot of the issue. just venting it to the panel still causes the oil spray. build up, mess that we are trying to avoid.

with the engine pulsing, it is hard to vent it outside of the body of the sled especially in snow dust or deep powder riding. the hose end could suck snow into the hose/can/motor. and that would be bad JUJU.

lets keep the ideas comming and try to fix this or maybe get help from another source. ski
 


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