oil change question

[Mooseman]

Alright, you've convinced me. I'll clean it out after draining the oil in a clean can

 

[BombaPolaYama]

So what kind of oil are you guys using and do you change the oil filter each time? Is there a supplier for the K&N filter in Canada?
thanks,

 

[YammyRX1]

I use the Yamalube and don't put a ton of miles on every year so I do the filter every other year (because it is such a pain!).

 

[Jeffz]

I use the KN-147 filter because it's easy to remove. Also using Amsoil 0w30 synthetic changed every season. I only put 1700mi on last season so I might not change it this year.

 

[Mooseman]

Ditto on the K&N. Love that nut on the end. Got mine from fleabay on a 3 pack special. Was using Mobil1 0W40, which was fine. Now running Shell Rotella T6 0W40.

 

[cannondale27]

I have run Amsoil and Yamalube.Dont remember which I have in now but I believe in synthetics if for nothing more than they allow engine to turn over easier in cold.I have been changing filter every spring or whenever front end is off.Otherwise it would not bother me to leave filter on for 4-5000 miles or until I see the oil getting black.

 

[WIyamirider]

Got the sled torn apart to do oil and filter.

drained oil tank. (oil is really, really black...yikes)

I am a little unsure for the rest of the process.

I have the filter exposed, is there anything else I need to do? Just take the filter off with a set of channel locks?

I saw a how-to pictorial with a guy taking off the oil cooler also..is that just to make getting at the filter easier?

Just not sure as this is a little different than my truck...lol

dont know if this is allowed but this was my source of info: http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum ... 007-yamaha

Hey, that's my how-to! I made that!

Wow, that was a while ago. I totally forgot that I even wrote that. I'm glad that it's still serving a useful purpose.

I honestly can't remember why I put in there to unbolt the oil cooler. Maybe it was to get more room? I've changed the filter since then, and haven't removed the oil cooler.

The crankcase drain bolt is covered, step #23. For some reason there isn't a picture there.

There isn't any mis-information in there, is there? I don't want people getting confused or doing something wrong because of information I put out there.

Sorry to barge in mid-thread with my first post. Just wanted to say thanks for using the how-to.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

Excellent job on the pics and write up - it will sure help me with doing my first oil change. thanks.
Yeah, they do look scary all taken apart - it's tedious like Lego!
The VL is a bit easier wrt the headlight not having to be reomoved like that.

 

[Groomer08]

I recomend cleaning the screen while your doing the oil change, but i wouldnt drain clean oil to do it.
its a HUGE screen, in the tank. good idea to clean it once and a while? yes. every oil change? your crazy.
just bought the sled? do it with your first oil change to see what your up against.
Its one of those bonus things that wont hurt, yet you could prob run 50k miles and never touch it.
its 5/8" diameter and like 4" long. way more surface area then your oil pump needs.
if it was crucial, yammy would have it in tha manual.

 

[yamahas]

I agree it is a large screen with a lot of surface area. But I don't think it is crazy to take it out at every oil change. I would have been fine so far with never taking it out but Cannondale had some silicone residue, you never know and it only takes a few minutes to take it out and clean it.

 

[Mooseman]

I just did it on our "new to us" '09 Phazer. Since I didn't know the history of this 4600Km machine and I suspect that it has been abused or raced, I didn't mind draining the new oil but did save it in a clean container. I have to say that I could have waited until the next oil change. There were just a couple of specs of crud and that's about it. Maybe it was done by the previous owner.

So I'll wait until the next oil change to do it on my MP. As mentioned by Groomer, there is a lot of screen surface area to allow oil through even if there there is a bit of crud on it.

 

[yamahas]

Thats the same as mine was, only a bit of crud. I guess you never know what happens during assembly. At least it is good to know all is clear.

 

[OVR4D]

A couple of time saver tips for anyone about to do this:

1. Instead of removing the headlight completely, it's possible to spin the entire headlight assembly 90-degrees in order to make room for the airbox removal. This saves the extra steps of having to readjust the headlight after installation. To keep the headlight assembly in tact, you do have to remove the seat in order to get to two 10mm bolts holding the plastic over the gas tank ... I also remove the plastic nut holding the ignition harness and the rubber flange over the gas tank fill spout, but this is pretty quick and painless.

2. Instead of disconnecting the map sensors and hoses attached to the airbox, remove the three allen head screws (4 or 5mm) attaching the map sensors to the airbox via a metal bracket. Then remove the three allen head bolts holding the airbox and just lift it off to the oil tank side (away from the primary and secondary clutch side). This saves the headache of having to reconnect all of the hoses when re-installing the airbox.

I got these tips from a service tech at a dealership and have followed them from break-in on with no problems. I can change the oil on the Phazer in about 2 hours now.

 

[MikeWalters]

thanks all for the help

found the yammi filter easy to remove with a set of channel locks. the yammi filters do actually seem better made, yammi has a vid up on youtube about them.

for how often it needs to be done ill stick with the yamaha product.

thanks again TY rocks.

Now we just need snow! It all but melted here with a couple of +8c days....crappy deal. Got a few short rides in before though

 

[BombaPolaYama]

A couple of time saver tips for anyone about to do this:

2. Instead of disconnecting the map sensors and hoses attached to the airbox, remove the three allen head screws (4 or 5mm) attaching the map sensors to the airbox via a metal bracket. Then remove the three allen head bolts holding the airbox and just lift it off to the oil tank side (away from the primary and secondary clutch side). This saves the headache of having to reconnect all of the hoses when re-installing the airbox.

Is it necessary to disconnect the negative battery terminal before disconnecting those sensors? I know when working on autos they always say to disconnect the battery first.