OIL leak!!

[Jafo1970]

I think mine is stuck open. It's sucking oil into the air box tube to turbo.

 

[jonlafon1]

I think mine is stuck open. It's sucking oil into the air box tube to turbo.

I had some oil in mine also. Go figure mine is not opening.. I really can not stress enough what a HUGE difference in run quality(idle) it made by bypassing mine.

 

[jonlafon1]

I think mine is stuck open. It's sucking oil into the air box tube to turbo.

The other thing I cant figure is why does this air line go into the larger air tube that connects to airbox?? Why not just go directly into airbox with it, or somewhere else? Wouldn't that prevent some of the oil from being sucked into air intake ??? I do not know turbos that well(first turbo sled) > so maybe this is a stupid question??

 

[snowbeast]

Well this brings up a good question for us guys running or getting ready to run the cold air kits,that do not run the stock air box,what do we do with the hose that once ran to the airbox?

 

[NOS-PRO]

************ UPDATE************* OIL LEAK IS BACK!!!!!!!!!!! ******* 1500 MILES
Noticed my sled is leaking a SMALL amount of engine oil! This time along with the first time(probably related) I believe I have found the problem.. Its the check valve/roll over valve that is attached just below the turbo antifreeze case... See pic. So I noticed its leaking at the bottom of the oil case right at gasket again.. This time I caught it as its barely leaking much (1-2 drops a week in heated garage).. So first thing I do is warm it up and while doing so I unscrew the oil fill plug checking for case pressure and WOOLAH air coming from the oil fill plug as I unscrew it. Next I put my thumb over hole and hold air tight for 3-5 seconds and release and it damn near hisses at me!! The sleds RPM are fluctuating(200-300) as I put my thumb onto the oil fill hole and release the pressure that's building in tank ... (sleds idling )
. So I talk with service guy at dealer(who knows his #*$&@, and a TY member that knows his #*$&@ also)and dig in a little more. Kind of thinking its the check valve/roll over valve).. I check all hoses coming and going from oil case, find no kinks or zip ties to tight ETC. Next I start checking the hose that come out of the top of the oil case. I disconnect from check valve going each way and blow into the hose.. I try blowing into and past check valve after checking other side which goes into the bigger tube > and attached to air box.(no resistance at all).. I find it very hard to blow past the check valve.
At this point I actually feel relieved I got this oil leak thing figured.. So to double check my findings I go to hardware store and buy a plumbing fitting with male ends .. Disconnect both lines on check valve and bypass it all together with plumbing fitting.. Start sled and it idles PERFECT at 1800 for a bit then drops to 1500 and idles smooth.. Next unscrew oil fill plug and press thumb over hole for 3-5 seconds > no pressure.. Also sled continues to idle PERFECT. .Also did check the valve itself with a flash light and small screw driver.. I pushed on little ball inside valve and appeared to work fine and function fine>> APPEARED key word
Info relayed to dealer and they find me a part .. Thinking this valve was bad from day one.. Now it has failed completely and the next ride would have been BAD.. Case gasket would have blown again no doubt .. Just CAN NOT roll over sled with this valve disconnected View attachment 126681 View attachment 126682 View attachment 126683

 

[gvessey]

My Brother in laws side oil tank had a overtightened clamp below the barb on the side oil tank and she puked out near two litres of oil ruined all the heat tape and foam under the muffler what a mess. Didn't start leaking until after a few hundred miles, happened on a long ride and he never noticed until he seen the puddle under it. His tank had a bit of pressure as well when you took the cap off.

 

[jonlafon1]

UPDATE..

Took sled into dealer for second repair on oil tank seal.(from last season).. Dealer ALSO had a new roll over check valve. They confirmed my findings. The original was malfunctioning(not opening without significant pressures). Replaced gasket and roll over valve.. Was told the new ones are on backorder from BOTH cat and Yamaha?? Imagine that

Hoping I have some closure on this oil leaking issue/roll over valve.
This thing starts idling like SH&% first thing I will be checking is oil tank pressure.. I cant stress enough how much different my sled ran at idle with the bad valve bypassed..

 

[NOS-PRO]

Dude! Your alive!!!!!

Lol

Hope you have trouble free performance this season

 

[**sj**]

there must be some kind of spec on the valve? couldnt you put a vacuum on the back side to test open function?

the oil in airtube I was told was from over filling resi...that it should be 1/4-1/2" below the fill line ?

 

[jonlafon1]

Dude! Your alive!!!!!

Lol

Hope you have trouble free performance this season

Thanks Terry. Pretty sure I have her dialed IN. Have not been on much. I had a accident two months ago at the cabin in the UP. Actually got into 4 wheeling this summer, really fun with the girlfriend and boy. I will PM you

 

[jonlafon1]

SJ not sure about a spec but dealer said it was definitely f up. Kinda curious if mine was just a bad part or more guys will find oil leaks starting the season. Guessing I got a bad roll over valve. Possibly the spring inside it.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Same thing going on with my sled.

I put 5000 miles on last year with no oil leak. I noticed this summer the oil tank was leaking on the seam. I took it apart and re sealed it. After that it was good , I started the sled a few times no leak.

Last week I drove it up onto the truck and when I took It off the tank was leaking like crazy. All around the seam.

Then I took the filler cap off and the tank was under pressure.

I have two sidewinders here right now so I compared the two roll over valves by blowing into them.
- the sled with no oil leak was fairly easy to blow through
-my sled with the leak was very hard to get the valve to open and when it did it's real noisy. So I geusse I need a new valve.

This would be a shitty thing to happen on the trail for sure.

 

[jonlafon1]

Sorry to here Joe. Afraid more guys may see this as guys pull sleds back out. Good luck getting new valve! Honestly they run just fine without the valve at all. It's very easy to test. First thing is your motor WILL idle like #*$&@. Besides leaking oil at the seal. It will be searching and RPM will bounce. The best way is to remove oil fill plug after warmed up and running at idle. Put thumb over fill hole wait 10-20 seconds and release thumb should be ZERO PRESSURE IN TANK. Honestly they run better without valve period. Just don't tip sled over or she could start on fire

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Sorry to here Joe. Afraid more guys may see this as guys pull sleds back out. Good luck getting new valve! Honestly they run just fine without the valve at all. It's very easy to test. First thing is your motor WILL idle like #*$&@. Besides leaking oil at the seal. It will be searching and RPM will bounce. The best way is to remove oil fill plug after warmed up and running at idle. Put thumb over fill hole wait 10-20 seconds and release thumb should be ZERO PRESSURE IN TANK. Honestly they run better without valve period. Just don't tip sled over or she could start on fire

I hear ya, but that's a bit of a risk.

I wish I could say I never flip it over lol

 

[snowbeast]

************ UPDATE************* OIL LEAK IS BACK!!!!!!!!!!! ******* 1500 MILES
Noticed my sled is leaking a SMALL amount of engine oil! This time along with the first time(probably related) I believe I have found the problem.. Its the check valve/roll over valve that is attached just below the turbo antifreeze case... See pic. So I noticed its leaking at the bottom of the oil case right at gasket again.. This time I caught it as its barely leaking much (1-2 drops a week in heated garage).. So first thing I do is warm it up and while doing so I unscrew the oil fill plug checking for case pressure and WOOLAH air coming from the oil fill plug as I unscrew it. Next I put my thumb over hole and hold air tight for 3-5 seconds and release and it damn near hisses at me!! The sleds RPM are fluctuating(200-300) as I put my thumb onto the oil fill hole and release the pressure that's building in tank ... (sleds idling )
. So I talk with service guy at dealer(who knows his #*$&@, and a TY member that knows his #*$&@ also)and dig in a little more. Kind of thinking its the check valve/roll over valve).. I check all hoses coming and going from oil case, find no kinks or zip ties to tight ETC. Next I start checking the hose that come out of the top of the oil case. I disconnect from check valve going each way and blow into the hose.. I try blowing into and past check valve after checking other side which goes into the bigger tube > and attached to air box.(no resistance at all).. I find it very hard to blow past the check valve.
At this point I actually feel relieved I got this oil leak thing figured.. So to double check my findings I go to hardware store and buy a plumbing fitting with male ends .. Disconnect both lines on check valve and bypass it all together with plumbing fitting.. Start sled and it idles PERFECT at 1800 for a bit then drops to 1500 and idles smooth.. Next unscrew oil fill plug and press thumb over hole for 3-5 seconds > no pressure.. Also sled continues to idle PERFECT. .Also did check the valve itself with a flash light and small screw driver.. I pushed on little ball inside valve and appeared to work fine and function fine>> APPEARED key word
Info relayed to dealer and they find me a part .. Thinking this valve was bad from day one.. Now it has failed completely and the next ride would have been BAD.. Case gasket would have blown again no doubt .. Just CAN NOT roll over sled with this valve disconnected View attachment 126681 View attachment 126682 View attachment 126683

Jon,i like your idea,dont need a lot of plumbing stuff to bypass that wack job of a valve. So what did it take,a reducer barb from one size hose to the other? Can you remember what size it was? And did you just go to home depo or someplace to get the two ended reducer? You don't need a tee,just a way to connect the two different size hose,s togeather right?