drg650
Extreme
LOL.This discussion can go on and on and get no where. If you use amsoil and you like it, and it makes you feel better then good for you. If you honestly believe that manufactures sell you oil to wear your engine faster, you are sadly mistaken. I like amsoil as well. I run there 2 cycle mix in my CR250.I also have a CRF450 4 Stroke and I run the manufacture recommended GN4 oil. Honda guys would have a field day if they heard that that manufactures want you to buy there oil so there engines will wear faster.
RaWarrior
Extreme
I think the "OEM oil will kill your motor" thought goes back to the 70's, where it was all too obvious American cars were designed to fall apart in a couple years, forcing you to buy a new one, and the American auto industry almost crashed because of it.
OEM oil is almost always a name brand oil, repackaged with some dye in it. I remember hearing that all Bombardier oils are Castrol in different bottles, and carry 2x the price.
The dealer nearby wants $13/quart for Yamalube, and I get Castrol 0w-30 full synthetic at the auto store for $5.50/quart. Can't find Amsoil around here.
Guess there's just a line between "pay for peace of mind" and the old fashioned "drop your shorts at the door" dealer pricing. I'd buy Yamalube if it was the same or even a tad more than regular oil. But for more than twice the price? Don't think so, since there's a good chance it's just Castrol in a different bottle anyway.
OEM oil is almost always a name brand oil, repackaged with some dye in it. I remember hearing that all Bombardier oils are Castrol in different bottles, and carry 2x the price.
The dealer nearby wants $13/quart for Yamalube, and I get Castrol 0w-30 full synthetic at the auto store for $5.50/quart. Can't find Amsoil around here.
Guess there's just a line between "pay for peace of mind" and the old fashioned "drop your shorts at the door" dealer pricing. I'd buy Yamalube if it was the same or even a tad more than regular oil. But for more than twice the price? Don't think so, since there's a good chance it's just Castrol in a different bottle anyway.
Bob Miller
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I've been using Mobil 1 For 18 years now in everything, ATV's Motorcycles, Cars, Lawn Tractors, Etc... and I've been using it for 5 years now in my RX Warrior.
Works fine for me, I've been using 5W-30 and its usually $22. for a 5 QT container, or around $5 a QT.
Works fine for me, I've been using 5W-30 and its usually $22. for a 5 QT container, or around $5 a QT.
Rockmeister
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Hey Bob!
Are you the same Bob Miller with a Carver in CT?
This is a recent change in the oils, the oil you buy now in the same looking bottle is not the same oil you bought a couple years ago unfortunately.
I did read somethhing on Yamahas site about how they spec their oil and have others make it. From what I read, it looks pretty good, but can't guarantee it.
Are you the same Bob Miller with a Carver in CT?
This is a recent change in the oils, the oil you buy now in the same looking bottle is not the same oil you bought a couple years ago unfortunately.
I did read somethhing on Yamahas site about how they spec their oil and have others make it. From what I read, it looks pretty good, but can't guarantee it.
Fourstroker1
Veteran
Hard decision what oil to use with all the imfomation around, I agree the yamalube is a rip off and there should be a law against charging that kind of price. I am sure it is made by some big oil company and sold for a lot less without that name. Will use the yamalube for this winter maybe read more and get a little more confused for next winter. 
RaWarrior
Extreme
It's not just Yamalube, all the OEM-branded oils are rip-offs. "Pain-in-the-Polanus" sleds take 0-50w oil, and there aren't any "regular" brands that make that odd weight, so if you want you warranty you have to pay $15/quart for it, and they take a teeny bit over 4 quarts. Lot of oil for a 750cc motor.
I remember the Ski-Doo 2 stroke oil regularly ran about $30/gal for the mineral, or $45/gal for the full synthetic. The place that used to carry Amsoil sold gallons of HP Injector for about $25.
My friend insists on using the Arctic Cat oil, and gladly pays nearly $40/gal for regular synthetic with some green dye that would normally run about half that price.
Dealers in general should be prohibited by law to make these massive markups on OEM products. Isn't there some "price gouging" law for highway gas stations? It's all too easy to tack on an extra dollar on that quart of oil, or another $10 for that obscure, can't fix it part you absolutely need.
The best book about boating(What's a Hoy? by Cap'n Drew Brown) ever written summarized dealer pricing as such:
"It is arguably better to spend more than a small Hyundai on a fuel filter than to lose an entire weekend of boating"......"dealers operate at profit margins that make the White House's $400 toilet seats seem like a magnificent bargain"
Same thing goes. You WILL go riding this weekend, but you need what the dealer has. They know that only a crazy man would sacrifice riding time to go comparison-shop to get the part at a fair price, and know you'll bitch and moan but pay for the part. And you'll be back, since you can't make these parts, usually can't fix them, and there's no place else local to get them.
Except there usually is. I didn't realize until this year that about 20 minutes away was a tiny little Yamaha dealer out in the middle of nowhere that sold only sleds and ATV's. Showroom was the size of a large bedroom. The owner also worked the counter, and was also the mechanic. Stuff there is a bargain compared to the closer, larger dealer.
I remember the Ski-Doo 2 stroke oil regularly ran about $30/gal for the mineral, or $45/gal for the full synthetic. The place that used to carry Amsoil sold gallons of HP Injector for about $25.
My friend insists on using the Arctic Cat oil, and gladly pays nearly $40/gal for regular synthetic with some green dye that would normally run about half that price.
Dealers in general should be prohibited by law to make these massive markups on OEM products. Isn't there some "price gouging" law for highway gas stations? It's all too easy to tack on an extra dollar on that quart of oil, or another $10 for that obscure, can't fix it part you absolutely need.
The best book about boating(What's a Hoy? by Cap'n Drew Brown) ever written summarized dealer pricing as such:
"It is arguably better to spend more than a small Hyundai on a fuel filter than to lose an entire weekend of boating"......"dealers operate at profit margins that make the White House's $400 toilet seats seem like a magnificent bargain"
Same thing goes. You WILL go riding this weekend, but you need what the dealer has. They know that only a crazy man would sacrifice riding time to go comparison-shop to get the part at a fair price, and know you'll bitch and moan but pay for the part. And you'll be back, since you can't make these parts, usually can't fix them, and there's no place else local to get them.
Except there usually is. I didn't realize until this year that about 20 minutes away was a tiny little Yamaha dealer out in the middle of nowhere that sold only sleds and ATV's. Showroom was the size of a large bedroom. The owner also worked the counter, and was also the mechanic. Stuff there is a bargain compared to the closer, larger dealer.
Bob Miller
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rockmeister said:
What's a CARVER?
Rockmeister
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lol Its a large boat. Tnx.
sleddheadd
TY 4 Stroke God
Actually, that is one thing that the dealers will tell you. The fact that if you run any other type of oil then your warrenty is VOID. It is against the law to make that statement! Your manufacturer can and does set a minimum API or JASO rating that must be met by the oil that you run. If your oil does not meet the manufacturers suggested rating .... Then your warrenty is VOID!RaWarrior said:
For example, An Apex requires API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA, as long your oil exceeds that rating you are still covered under your warranty If you run an API rated oil lower than SG .... then your warranty is void.
Bob Miller
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Mobil 1 5W-30 meets or exceeds the following industry specifications:
ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5
API SM, SL,SJ,EC,CF,CD
ILSAC GF-4
ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5
API SM, SL,SJ,EC,CF,CD
ILSAC GF-4
Rockmeister
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You engine protection actually went down with the latest API spec.
This is the first time since they started specing oil, that protection has went Down with a new oil spec.
This is the first time since they started specing oil, that protection has went Down with a new oil spec.
suprfst
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Yep I just ordered amsoil for my sled.Ive ran Mobil 1 in all my bikes, quads and sled for years.I will still run mobil 4t in the bikes because it still has the zinc in it,and its readily available in my town.
Bob Miller
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The API classifications are different for petrol and diesel engines:
For petrol, listings start with 'S' (meaning Service category, but you can also think of it as Spark-plug ignition), followed by another code to denote standard. 'SM' is the current top grade, which recently replaced 'SL' and 'SH'. 'SH' will be found on most expensive oils, and almost all the new synthetics. It's basically an upgraded 'SG' oil which has been tested more sternly.
For petrol, listings start with 'S' (meaning Service category, but you can also think of it as Spark-plug ignition), followed by another code to denote standard. 'SM' is the current top grade, which recently replaced 'SL' and 'SH'. 'SH' will be found on most expensive oils, and almost all the new synthetics. It's basically an upgraded 'SG' oil which has been tested more sternly.
