Superman
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Yamaha tends to do a poor job calibrating the shock set-ups on thier machines. Yamaha had a stiffer calibrated RTX at the DEMO's in 07 and they elected to go with the softer one. We had F----d up conditions during the 07 ride and that really firm set up RTX rocked, but the softer version made production. Both of My 05 and 06 Mono-shock skids could have been calibrated better. The shocks on My Mtn. Lite are a complete waste of time. Maybe its just Me because they seem to miss what I'm looking for out of a shock set-up.
Mikecam
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I thought that too but after trying lots of different setups I found one that works great. I backed off the rear front shock almost to nothing. Went one up on the straps and showing two lines I believe on the transfer rod. Some of my party took a wrong turn one night and to save some time I had to catch up to them fast. The trail they took was off the groomed trail and was terrible and the RTX soaked it up better then I could have ever imagined. Floats set at 40 psi. Any more then that and the front seems to push the back end down. I did make my own bumb stops and I think that helps a little too.
chadman
Expert
What do you mean by backing of the shock, did you loosen the spring? With the straps, did you tighten them or let them down?
Mikecam
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'm 240 so with the rear feeling under sprung I tightened up the rear (front) spring thinking that would help the rear hold up the sled but it rode terrible over the studder bumbs. I also had ratcheting issues. One member here suggested to lighten up the rear (front) shock to help with ratcheting and it helped a great deal. It also made the skid handle the studder bumbs much much better. To help with the cornering I tightened the strap one hole and it helped but not as much as taking the 60psi out of the front floats and putting it at 37.5 psi. Half way between 35psi and 40psi. The lower center of gravity really helped with the cornering and the lower psi helped keeping the front from pushing the back down. Kind of like a rocking motion.(I think ???) With the rear of the sled off the ground I loosened the rear (front) shock till it was not even compressed and then went back a few turns to keep it from falling out. (Not quite but close lol ) I'm not into wheelies so I took out some transfer, 2 lines showing and I remember reading on here that by doing that it allows the skid to couple sooner there by getting the rear shock some help from the rear (front) shock. Rear torsion spring is set on HARD. I've tried it many many ways and I've had this CK rear skid handling just terrible. No fun to ride at all even on groomed trail with small bumbs. For me I have finally found my sweet spot and I'm not touching it any more. I hit some really big bumbs and even was starting to load the skid on the really big ones and popping over the next 2 with this set up. I remember thinking that "I'VE FINALLY GOT IT" and had I had I camera I would of taken a picture of the trail. It was that bad.
chadman
Expert
Thanks for the info.
The Bismarck
Extreme
I have found running two clicks up on the compression and running medium on the torsion springs to be alright. Ive played with the floats and have found 40 to 42.5 psi to be ideal. I have run with the torsion block on hard but it sucked for stutters and was tippy. In my opinion yamaha set it up stiff from the top and handles decent in small bumps but once you hit the whoops it blows right thru the stroke. I also put the anti-bump stops on which helped but seems to be a bandage fix to me. Im waiting for a company to come out with something to fix the bottoming problem.
beerguy
Newbie
ReX said:
Does anyone know if Hygear came up with a good solution for the ProActive CK on the 2007 RTX?
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
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I have the Pioneer setup and I have never been happy with it. I wish I had the money to try the Hygear setup as well to compare the two. I can tell you the Pioneer setup is great for big bumps and woops. I dont bottom out on jumps or large bumps, but no matter how I adjust it I cant get the thing to take a stutter bump to save my life. 07 RTX Big bumps it feels like a off road truck sucks it right up. Stutter bumps hang on for your life it will bounce you right off the seat. Stock Mono not even the GT rides much better.
yamahaapex1000
Newbie
On my 09 rtx, the shocks work excellent and you can realy ride through rough trail with no problem. The faster you go the smoother it is and barely ever bottom out. Yamaha must have made some changes to this model beacouse it really rides great right from the stock setting. I beleive that this model was very overshadowed and if reviewers took the time to test it, they would have been very surprised. Yamaha really did an overall great job with this one.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
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- Snowmobile
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race24x said:
thats because the no action is a big bump skid...never going to be a trail junk skid (push)...and the mono is a trail junk skid ...not a big bump skid...
cant make something do what it wasnt really intended for...can narrow the window by revalving like youve done to some degree but it is what it is..
Liquid Blue
Extreme
Ditto here. Pioneer revalve by Bruce. 13mm sway bar, 65lbs in Floats. No problem coming up alongside XP's in the rough.
Terminator
Expert
Liquid Blue said:
X2, except 50 psi in floats
apexrtxmaniac
Pro
beerguy said:
I have the trail pro setup in the rear of mine. I am pretty impressed with it. It can now handle big bumps well...it can be setup for any conditions, firm for big bumps or soft for groomed trails. even when I have it setup for the big bumps it isn't horrible in the smaller ones, the trick seems to be having enough speed...when it is setup stiff you don't want to be going 30mph in stutters. I would definitely recommend hygear's setup. The sled rides infinitely better than stock now.
Ak Yammy
Expert
apexrtxmaniac said:
Hate to say it and not trying to bash Hygear here but if I had to describe my Pioneer revalve I would describe it as above. I talked to both before I did my revalve and liked what Bruce at Pioneer had to say, Hygear was a bit more money as well. Now maybe if you opt for the higher package that Hygear offers you can get a better rounded sled thats good in the small but still takes the big stuff. If you do go that route bring lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$.
Happy with Pioneer so far even took some small jumps that would have sent my spine through my back with the stock valving. Big bumps are great now, I hit a nasty square edge sandbar that I thought was gong to launch and kick but soaked it up fine. Does like to be hammered through the small stuff as said above does not like the 30 mph in stutters.
heelingcowboy1
VIP Member
Hygear gets my business every time!! I had them revalve all way around, twisted spring kit on the center shock and had him put the HYLO valve on the rear shock. THE HYLO VALVE FLAT OUT WORKS!!! way more adjustment then the stocker and you can set the LO valve to be more plush through the stutters and adjust the HI valve for big hits. ITS THE BEST!!!
