snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Looking for tips on painting the side panels. I think I am going to sand them down over the summer and paint and am looking for any feedback from others that have done it. Pics of ones completed are appreciated as well. I have seen posts before, but I must not be using the right keywords because nothing is being returned. Thanks!
Teamblue4
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You get yours done , then you can do mine.
raginyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
good tip LOLTeamblue4 said:You get yours done , then you can do mine.
snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Right. I'll get mine done and you can come over and admire it.
robert327
Veteran
i read a post on here not to long ago and he said how time he spent sandind down all the little bumps ,when a good coat of the right primer would have filled them all in then a light sanding.his looked real nice and he listed the proper primer .i think i read the post in november or december good luck
turbine tester
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I have seen 2 black sleds with painted side panels, they look wicked blacked out!
biffdotorg
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Is that like how the cross country race nytros have blue side panels! That looks awesome!
scott32
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If you want smooth, then yes, sand, and sand,and sand. If not, just a good rubbin' with grey scotchbrite, and wash and wash and wash, with dish soap, then I used dupli-color adhesion promoter and paint away. Either way you must use the promoter due to the raw plastic, for a proper bond. I found the duplicolor paints to flex quite well without cracking. Cheers, Scott
ManhattanMike
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I'm about to paint mine also & I thought the same thing about sanding the bumps off the panels. My buddy that owns a body shop said he'd just use a high build primer and do a little bit of sanding.
snowdust
TY 4 Stroke Guru
That's what I was hoping to hear. I may check with a local body shop as well.ManhattanMike said:I'm about to paint mine also & I thought the same thing about sanding the bumps off the panels. My buddy that owns a body shop said he'd just use a high build primer and do a little bit of sanding.
duste
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Weather you sand or choose to just use high build primer, the adhesion promoter is an absolute must. I plan or repainting the entire sled for next season , just need to figure out the paint scheme I want. I'll be Yami blue , silver and white bit in what arrangement.???????????
vicman
Extreme
I did mine this year and learned alot! I took the time sanding the texture of the panels down and then priming and painting. This took many many hours!!! I didnt sand the nose cone down and just scuffed it with a red scotchbrite pad. can even tell the difference. My advise to anyone that is considering doing this would be to save yourself about 20 hours and scuff everything with a red scotchbrite pad, use 2-3 coats of heavy build primer and sand smooth. You will get the same smooth finish your looking!!
vicman
Extreme
Here is a few pictures to give you an idea.
nate007
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I've always done all my sleds, and have been painting for the better part of 25 years now, adn the plastic panels can be done in different ways, but depending on how you do it depends how it turns out and how long it lasts.
If you simply try to sand the texture off of the panels you'll be at it forever, as the plastic is soft enought that it always stays "fuzzy" and even finer grit's just takes a ton of time and doesn't really help.
Start with a good wax and grease remover after the stickers are removed, then quickly sand with 80g sandpaper on a d/a sander. Follow that up with 180g, then take your time and make sure you have ALL the cracks and crevises sanded thoroughly, especially the area closes to where the foot wells go. (that is the most prone place to peeling)
1.On the last half dozen sleds I've painted, I'
ve taken the 180g surface and sprayed a heavy coat of House of Kolors KP2CF epoxy primer, but depending on what brand you use, a good 2k primer or polyester primer will be fine. Don't be alarmed, it's going to look like crap, because the primer is going to fill all of the sanding scratches, and there will be plastic showing through.
2. Let that cure, and then use the normal 320-400g and BY HAND, block sand the primered surface. You will notice that the "hairy" plastic that is sticking through now sands very easilly and leaves a smooth surface. I won't look good, but once that is done, prime again, and wet/dry sand and paint normally. This both saves a ton of time, and adds an incredible measure of mechanical bond for the paint job and really does a good job of keeping it from peeling.
3. I get alot of questions regarding the flex agents in paint. I don't use any, as it's my opinion that the panels don't usually flex enough to require it, and it's a similar composition to an automotive bumper or other surface, in which most don't use additives anyway. I do use urethane paints and clears, which have more flex to them as well. You should get a couple seasons out of them before they show any wear of cracks, unless of course, you hit something.
If you simply try to sand the texture off of the panels you'll be at it forever, as the plastic is soft enought that it always stays "fuzzy" and even finer grit's just takes a ton of time and doesn't really help.
Start with a good wax and grease remover after the stickers are removed, then quickly sand with 80g sandpaper on a d/a sander. Follow that up with 180g, then take your time and make sure you have ALL the cracks and crevises sanded thoroughly, especially the area closes to where the foot wells go. (that is the most prone place to peeling)
1.On the last half dozen sleds I've painted, I'
ve taken the 180g surface and sprayed a heavy coat of House of Kolors KP2CF epoxy primer, but depending on what brand you use, a good 2k primer or polyester primer will be fine. Don't be alarmed, it's going to look like crap, because the primer is going to fill all of the sanding scratches, and there will be plastic showing through.
2. Let that cure, and then use the normal 320-400g and BY HAND, block sand the primered surface. You will notice that the "hairy" plastic that is sticking through now sands very easilly and leaves a smooth surface. I won't look good, but once that is done, prime again, and wet/dry sand and paint normally. This both saves a ton of time, and adds an incredible measure of mechanical bond for the paint job and really does a good job of keeping it from peeling.
3. I get alot of questions regarding the flex agents in paint. I don't use any, as it's my opinion that the panels don't usually flex enough to require it, and it's a similar composition to an automotive bumper or other surface, in which most don't use additives anyway. I do use urethane paints and clears, which have more flex to them as well. You should get a couple seasons out of them before they show any wear of cracks, unless of course, you hit something.
TOMBOB
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here is web site just right for this to
SearchAutoParts.com painting plastic right the first
time
my plan is paint my side panels match hood
heat red' if you don't know your paint code
dealer can get for you
TOMBOB
SearchAutoParts.com painting plastic right the first
time
my plan is paint my side panels match hood
heat red' if you don't know your paint code
dealer can get for you
TOMBOB
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